I will be filling up the pool soon and need to do some math regarding chemicals to see how much and what I need to get it to the right levels. What are the "tap water" settings?
using pool math calculator for brand new water?
- Thread starter primuspaul
- Start date
I'm willing to bet that varies from region to region. I'd just test the tap water and plan accordingly. We started up our pool from frozen last week and it started up with a very slight green tint to it. A quick test, some pool chlorine (strong stuff) to give the SWG a head start and the water was crystal clear the next day.
I'm so happy we have a pool - ESPECIALLY given the state of the world right now. There was 18" (thick) of ice on our pool but we were getting so stir crazy we just filled it up, fired up the heater and melted it all away.
I'm so happy we have a pool - ESPECIALLY given the state of the world right now. There was 18" (thick) of ice on our pool but we were getting so stir crazy we just filled it up, fired up the heater and melted it all away.
I'm going to test it once it's filled, but for now I assumed 0 FC and 0 CYA. I did a comparison between these three products:
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Normally I use cal hypo for my needs since it lets me control CYA separately (unlike trichlor), but cal hypo prices seem to have skyrocketed, though still below 10% liquid chlorine. So I went to the calculator and checked how much of each of the three is needed to increase FC by 1. Here is what I came up with:
Trichlor looks like the clear winner, and while normally it would be problematic because it also adds CYA, in this case I have to add CYA anyway so I think at least at the beginning I should be able to use the cheaper option until I reach 40 CYA. My question is: how much CYA is added per lb of the trichlor?
Yup, Mac's right. Some places have wicked hard water and its helpful to know in advance before adding more calcium. Reasons like that
PoolMath can tell you the effects of adding x amount of any chemical. Look at the bottom of the classic web version here (found below) if you don't have the App available.
Folks with short swim seasons can sometimes get away with using pucks since they tend to drain water for closing and let rain/snow exchange some also.
Maddie
Addendum- have you considered a SWG?
Folks with short swim seasons can sometimes get away with using pucks since they tend to drain water for closing and let rain/snow exchange some also.
Maddie
Addendum- have you considered a SWG?
Oh wait I found what you meant on the bottom!PoolMath can tell you the effects of adding x amount of any chemical. Look at the bottom of the classic web version here (found below) if you don't have the App available.
Folks with short swim seasons can sometimes get away with using pucks since they tend to drain water for closing and let rain/snow exchange some also.
Maddie
Addendum- have you considered a SWG?
It says how much stabilizer to add, but I'm not adding stabilizer, I'm adding trichlor, which the website does tell me how much I need for a unit of FC, but not how much of it I need for an amount of CYA. If we are to assume that 1 lb of trichlor = 1 lb of stabilizer then I guess I'll be up to 40 CYA after about 4 sessions of adding enough tablets to get to 8 FC:
So I know how much trichlor I need to get to the desired FC, but no idea how much it will raise CYA.
Hmm...PoolMath can tell you the effects of adding x amount of any chemical. Look at the bottom of the classic web version here (found below) if you don't have the App available.
Folks with short swim seasons can sometimes get away with using pucks since they tend to drain water for closing and let rain/snow exchange some also.
Maddie
Addendum- have you considered a SWG?
- So it looks like if I start out by using the tabs, the chemicals will be MUCH cheaper, but in the beginning, I will have very low CYA, so it will deteriorate much faster, which means I will have to use more of it.
- I could add stabilizer separately to get it to at least 20 and then use the tabs, but then I will have to pay for the stabilizer chemical separately and I won't be able to use the tabs all season, which means I'll have to switch to the more expensive cal hypo 73% mid-season when I reach 40 CYA to keep from going overboard with CYA.
Can someone steer me in the right direction?
SWG you mean a machine that generates chlorine from salt? I think I looked into it, but based on discussion on these boards, the machine cost, wear and tear, and salt cost kinda made it a break-even kind of deal vs just buying the chemicals.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I prefer to add CYA and just use liquid chlorine. Then I know the chlorine isn’t wasted from lack of CYA.
OK. I will use SOME acid to get the initial CYA up to lowest allowable levels, then use the tablets until I reach max acceptable levels. Then, if needed, I will switch to cal hypo 73% to keep the FC up without overdosing on CYA. Here are the best prices I found for what I will get initially, so let me know if there are better deals:
Cyanuric Acid Stabilizer & Conditioner for Swimming Pool Water | 25 lbs 600291951243 | eBay - $50 for 25 lbs
3 Inch Pool Chlorine Tablets - Pool Sanitizer - In The Swim - $99 for 50 lbs
