UPDATE: FINALLY got the TF-100 and tested... now what?

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tclary47

tclary47

Active member
Aug 15, 2020
36
Austin, TX
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
THANK YOU FOR THE SUGGESTION - Y'ALL ARE AWESOME AND I ALREADY LOVE THE TESTING KIT.

With that said- here are the results of my tests. Not sure what to add from here.

Chlorine: .5 (if that - not holding Chlorine)
PH: 7.8
Calcium Hardness: 750ppm
Total Alkalinity: 60
CYA: 0?

EDIT: Plaster Pool - about 18000 gallons. Looks super clear currently.

Thanks for any help you can give.
 
No doubt you need chlorine and stabilizer. But before we go that far, refresh our memory .... is there any algae or cloudiness which could be algae? Or is the water crystal clear to the bottom?

Also please update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. It will be important for your replies.
 
Based on your other thread, new pool. About a month old. Nothing added in much quantity so you need stabilizer and chlorine as mentioned above.

Check your CH number. That high is going to lead to problems soon.
 
Texas Splash said:
No doubt you need chlorine and stabilizer. But before we go that far, refresh our memory .... is there any algae or cloudiness which could be algae? Or is the water crystal clear to the bottom?

Also please update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. It will be important for your replies.
Click to expand...
Pool is crystal clear - was filled about a month ago.

PB added chemicals 3 weeks ago when I was not here and he has since retired. Im sorta on my own. I know he used acid to start.
 
You need to get your FC up. In a 18k pool you will need to add 115oz. of 10% bleach/chlorine daily to maintain 5 ppm FC. This will go down once you get CYA in there. As others have said, shoot for an initial CYA of 30ppm. So again for your pool that would be about 72oz. of stabilizer in a stock hanging in front of a return.

Read everything in Pool School and learn how to use the Pool Math page...there is an app for the phone that is nice!
 
Non-salt pool right? You should be using liquid chlorine. Never use cal-hypo as you don't need more CH. I would recommend taking your CYA up to 50 using the sock-soaking method. TX heat is coming. The PoolMath APP Effects of Adding section can help you with the dosage. Increase the FC to about 5 ppm (about one gallon) right now and let it mix. Tomorrow test again and keep the FC balance to a CYA of 50 per the FC/CYA Levels.

Using the PoolMath APP, watch your CSI. With an elevated CH, you need to control the pH to compensate, Keep the pH slightly lower so that your CSI is slightly negative to help avoid scale.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Non-salt pool right? You should be using liquid chlorine. Never use cal-hypo as you don't need more CH. I would recommend taking your CYA up to 50 using the sock-soaking method. TX heat is coming. The PoolMath APP Effects of Adding section can help you with the dosage. Increase the FC to about 5 ppm (about one gallon) right now and let it mix. Tomorrow test again and keep the FC balance to a CYA of 50 per the FC/CYA Levels.

Using the PoolMath APP, watch your CSI. With an elevated CH, you need to control the pH to compensate, Keep the pH slightly lower so that your CSI is slightly negative to help avoid scale.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much! Alot to take in here.
 
I've redone the CH test twice now - 650 and 675. So maybe not as terrible as first imagined.

Essentially I will need to add 1 Gal of 10% Liquied Chlorine (no Cal-hypo) and utilize the sock soaking method to raise CYA to 50 and then maintain between 6-8ppm minimum 4ppm.
 
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tclary47 said:
Essentially I will need to add 1 Gal of 10% Liquied Chlorine (no Cal-hypo) and utilize the sock soaking method to raise CYA to 50 and then maintain between 6-8ppm minimum 4ppm.
Click to expand...
You got it! :goodjob: Once you get that going, take another look at the pH. I think with that CH of ~650 you might need to keep the pH more around 7.6-7.7, but double-check the PoolMath APP to be sure. Look for the CSI number. Ideally you would like it -0.1 to -0.3.
 
Last question before I add the chemicals - for the sock soak method, I have a Jandy 580 cartridge filter. Should i still use the sock method? One sock in each skimmer with 60oz of the conditioner? 1 sock with all 120oz of conditioner? or can I just dump it right in the skimmer?
 
Do not dump in the skimmer. Never do that. Use one, two or three socks as you like. Place the stabilizer in the sock(s) and let them sock in the skimmer or hang near a return jet for about 30 min then go back out and start squeezing. The mush should all squeezer out in a a matter of minutes and you're done.
 
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If you dump it in the skimmer it just clogs things up... The idea behind that is that it dissolves as the water goes through the filter, but it just makes a big clog instead. Besides you want the CYA in the pool's water, that's why the sock method in front of a return is better. It puts the CYA in the main body of the pool water where you want it anyway. Also.. in case no one mentioned, tt will take a day or so to register in your tests. So don't freak out when you don't see it register in 30 min.. it is slow dissolving.

Are you using liquid or granualar?
 
UPDATE:
Y'all are the best - seriously. Since I love my new T100 test kit, I went ahead and did all the tests this morning (not expecting much to change) but some did. All i added was a galllon of liquid chlorine and 120oz of CYA (still soaking) and continue to run the pump 24/7. Here are the before and after numbers:


Chlorine: .5 (if that - not holding Chlorine) ---> read as 5+ so I did the FC test. That came out to 7.5. I understand this is still high with the CYA not being at 50 yet but I think the sun may help some.
PH: 7.8. ----> 7.2 (do i need to worry about this? I believe this lowers with the CH - no?)
Calcium Hardness: 750ppm ---> 500ppm (woohoo getting there)
Total Alkalinity: 60. ---> still 60
CYA: 0? ----- > 25 (getting there!)


Any recommendations or keep doing what im doing? Seems to be getting better - i know time will tell. Mostly worried about the drop in PH at this point.

Thanks!
 
tclary47 said:
Chlorine: .5 (if that - not holding Chlorine) ---> read as 5+ so I did the FC test. That came out to 7.5
Click to expand...
Never use the block test. It’s just as bad as a test strip, by Taylor’s own say-so. Only use the Ph side of the block and always use the powder FC test.
tclary47 said:
PH: 7.8. ----> 7.2 (do i need to worry about this? I believe this lowers with the CH - no
Click to expand...
Any 7 PH is fine. CH does not affect it.
tclary47 said:
Total Alkalinity: 60. ---> still 60
Click to expand...
Work on this last. Plain Jane baking soda when the time comes. BJs/Costco has 13 lb bags for $6.99. (Orange/ Arm&Hammer). Pool math will guide you with how much.
tclary47 said:
CYA: 0? ----- > 25 (getting there!)
Click to expand...
It takes some time to fully dissolve/mix. Give it time and keep doing what you’re doing. Creep up on the target so you don’t overshoot.

Keep tabs on your FC daily and make sure to add if needed. (y)
 
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Tim, it appears you are seeing positive results by those numbers to the right. A couple things to keep in mind as you look at water results:
To prevent algae (green or cloudy), FC & CYA are your focal points. Now that you seem to have a good FC level that's good. The CYA "should" have reached your target of 50 if measured and dispersed properly via the sock method. You might test that again mid-day today to validate. Always refer to the FC/CYA Levels to keep those two balanced.

To prevent scaling, you monitor the CH, pH, and TA. PH has the most immediate impact on CSI and the potential for scale. CH only goes down if you change water with softer water. Your pH is good right now and may float upwards a little through the week. Check it every couple days to ensure it doesn't exceed 7.8. You might find the pool settles down with a pH of around 7.6-7.8. If you are using the PoolMath APP, you will see a CSI result. Ideally try to keep that number slightly negative. Don't let the TA fall any lower than 50. If it ever does down the road, just add a little baking soda.

You're doing well. If you have any other questions let us know.
 
You can use PoolMath to log your test results. Then share your PoolMath logs so we can easily see your test results. Or post your results directly in your posts as follows....

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
Water Temp

Make sure PoolMath is set to track your CSI. with your high CH level, you may need to tweak other chemistey levels to keep CSI in range.

No more CalHypo - it adds calcium. Given your present reported CH level, you don't need any more calcium in the pool water right now.
 

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