Neither the transformers or the junction boxes conform to current NEC and safety standards.
I would not use any of the lighting system from the transformers to the light fixtures. New 12V transformers need to be installed, along with a pool light junction box that is no less then 4' from the water and 8″ above the maximum possible water level, that all will likely require new fixtures as the existing wires will not reach new junction boxes.
The new light system transfomers can be wired to the existing Compool panel.
View attachment 516484
Codes require wiring for pool lighting terminate in an approved junction box...
www.poolmagazine.com
Ok, that's clear - was just trying to determine if by "any of it" you meant anything to do with the entire pool/pump/filter/powered system, not just the lighting. Needed elaboration as to what "it" is. Thank you.
At this stage, what I gather can be done in short order is to leave the CB switch labeled "Lite" under "Pool" off, fill the pool light fixture niche at the cord with pool putty, fill the corroded mess of a J-box on the deck with putty again just as it was under the "pros" who put it in like that, and reinstall the pool light. Never turn on. Thoughts? Now...
1. Is there much point in installing a new O-ring, as per normal protocol, on a condemned light in terms of safety?
2. And If we're never using that light again until we or a new owner wishes to install an LED and/or redo wiring, why not putty in the socket for added protection (since the old O-ring will be there, and which has a corroded lens frame that pokes unevenly at the O-ring, thus a water leakage risk)? Though the O-ring successfully protected the bulb which tested good, now after pulling it apart it may not seal well again, and thus the question of using putty in the socket to stop any exposure contact to water.
3. Is there any point to removing the transformer fuses - advisable or not? (If they don't go to just the light - do they?)
4. Anything else that can be done quick (to safely repack the light and get out of this mess)? The spa light couldn't be pulled (cord too short to reach deck) so similar concerns about possibly having loosened the conduit and putty/sealant around it, leading to water reaching the J-box, which now seems constantly moist since the intervention.
Please note this thread was merged with a second thread I began titled. "Cancelling attempt to repair light. How to safely repack everything?" The emphasis now is on that latter half.