Two Speed Hayward pump making noise and not starting on high speed

[stephenson]

Hi All,

Well, end of summer woes ...

3 year old Hayward system.

Been gone for 10 days - went out to add some tabs to the system, and then hit the Filter button in service mode - but, the pump made a humming noise - tried a couple of times. Got it to start once, but only once out of 10 attempts.

So, reset everything, but still hum, and then click and off. The hum and click are clearly from the pump and not the capacitor on top of the pump.

Pulled the cover on the cap and all looks fine, no burn marks, etc.

Does this sound "typical" in some way?

I'm wondering if the failure is one side (high speed) of the capacitor?

 

[mas985]

Either the start capacitor is bad or there is a corroded contact on the centrifugal switch. What is the make/model # for the pump?

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

Why do you say it is not the capacitor?

Pump Capacitors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pump Centrifugal Switch - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Also, depending on your model pump, you may have 2 caps, one under the hump on top and one behind the back cover. You might check. Mark will take care of you from here. Good luck!

 

[JamesW]

Hayward TriStar. Blue Haven private label.

Replace the capacitor on top and the one in back if there is one.

Check the contacts on the "copper V" centrifugal switch.

 

[JamesW]

 

[stephenson]

So, after running low speed for a few hours, the high speed can now be turned on directly.

 

[stephenson]

So, this morning selected Low Speed - which starts the 3 minute run of the High Speed prior to shifting to Low Speed. The High Speed did NOT start, but I let it time out and start on low speed. Operates fine on Low Speed.

I think quickly reset it to High Speed and it shifted to High Speed, I am assuming because the motor was already running and did not need the boost from the capacitor.

The capacitor has four wires, I am, again, assuming one set of two to Low Speed and one set of two to High Speed?

Capacitor marked: 25 + 10 uF +/- 6% 350VAC/B

 

[stephenson]

This looks like it will work .... JARD Replacement for Packard PRCD2510 Round Dual Run Capacitor 25 + 10 uf MFD 370 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Three sets of terminals (used for a variety of different motor applications?) - one is C for common, one is FAN for fan, and the other is HERM for hermetically sealed compressor (sounds like common use for HVAC as there are way more of them than pool pumps - again, assumptions).

Can't tell from the photo, but assuming the W/R wire is a common and goes to the "C" marking on the cap in the link - can sort out when installing new one.

Photo of motor data.

 

[JamesW]

Looks like the capacitor linked will work.

Just be sure to note the position of the wires and put them back like they are now.

What is behind the back cover?

 

[stephenson]

Haven‘t opened, yet … was seeing if could get high speed going to get chlorine happening!

Will check this afternoon.

 

[stephenson]

OK - so, pulled end cover - here's photo of the cap in there.

Also pulled the top capacitor and tested with Ohm meter - from C to Fan get quick high reading, then to open, and from C to Herm get open only (no high at all). I believe this means the Fan side is good - and this is the 10 uF Low Speed portion of the cap - and, the open with no movement on the Herm side means the High Speed portion of the cap is bad?

Reconnected all and works as before - can get High Speed, but only after getting it running on Low Speed and quickly shifting.

I ordered the cap from above - will check back in when receive it.

 

[JamesW]

tested with Ohm meter

The only way to really test a capacitor is to use a meter that measures capacitance.

If the meter can test capacitance, then try that.

I would just replace both capacitors.

 

[mas985]

I think that might be one of the newer two speed motors with dual run capacitors for the high and low speed windings. You can tell by the relay in the back of the motor and a second capacitor. The first capacitor looks like a dual run capacitor and the second a start capacitor. It is likely the second capacitor.


Is there a relay in the back of the motor?

Can you show a picture of the entire back end of the motor?

Can you show the end caps of the second capacitor?

 

[stephenson]

End of capacitor on end of motor housing ...

I can get it running on High going through getting it running on Low, so will wait until delivery of the dual run cap, then install - only a couple of days either way.

 

[mas985]

Sorry, I meant both end caps on the capacitor and also the entire back end of the motor too. Thanks

But just that side looks a little swollen. It should be fairly flat.

 

[stephenson]

Both ends of the internal capacitor appear to be flat ... don't detect any swelling. Don't have a shot of the back end of the motor - will take one when I install the new top capacitor.

Will be pretty obvious if the new one fixes - or, not

BTW - given that it starts in Low Speed OK, doesn't this mean it would be the high voltage capacitor on top?

 

[mas985]

BTW - given that it starts in Low Speed OK, doesn't this mean it would be the high voltage capacitor on top?

I believe the top capacitor is a dual run capacitor for both low speed and high speed (need to confirm with back end picture). The inside capacitor is the start capacitor for high speed. That is why I think it is more likely to be the inside capacitor rather than the top capacitor.

 

[stephenson]

Ah, OK, to it - well, I may end up with a spare top capacitor

Ordered the 189-227 uF - it gets here before the larger one, so if it works, I can either keep the other or ship back

Thank both of you for helping on this - the more that ends up in the forums, with photos, the easier for others to fi their equipment!

 

[mas985]

If neither one fixes the problem, it could be the switch in the back of the motor.