Trying to understand CYA & Salt & SWG

KathyCox1228

Active member
Feb 7, 2020
30
Greenville, NC
Hi friends, I am using test kit K-1766 and for 2 days in a row, my salt level was 4000, but the red light on my SWG says low salt. My CYA was only 30, so I'm trying to increase that now.

How do I tell if the SWG is right or if the test kit is right?

My husband wants me to bring water to a pool store, but I am trying to learn to do it by myself!!

The pool is new - SWG was turned on in late November and we added salt last week - and I had perfect, totally perfect numbers for about 5 days, then the low salt light is on.

Thoughts?
 
Since it is a new build I would:
1) Use pool math to see how much salt your pool should have. At 35k gallons, each 40lb bag of salt would raise salt by 137. To get to a level of 4,000 thats 29 bags of salt. Does that sound about right?
2) Post a pic of your SWCG lights on here and see if someone can help diagnose.
3) If 1 & 2 dont work, tell your PB that your salt cell isnt working and he needs to fix it.
 
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Thanks! I am using Pool Math for everything. The salt was at 3100 or so last week before we added salt and we added 200 pounds and it went up to 4000, so I bumped the SWG down from 100% to 80% and then a day or two later 60% because the salt was staying so high. I will call the PB because there's something else in the drain field he needs to look at too so I will get him to check both. Today the CC was 0 and FC and TC were both 5.
 
Kathy, the % setting won't alter the salt level in any way. That just tells the device how many minutes per cycle to make chlorine. For example if set to 100%, as long as the pump was on the device would make chlorine at all times. 50% would mean you'd being making chlorine half the time *cycle time, which varies*.

How much salt does your manual call for??
 
My husband wants me to bring water to a pool store, but I am trying to learn to do it by myself!!
This is a bad idea. It will only confuse things and create doubt. You have the best test kit available. Trust the results.

Check out the video below. The salt test a bit different than other titration tests. In other tests, you keep dropping until there is no color change, then subtract the last drop. With the salt test, the end point is a signaled by a color change to "milky salmon brick red." If you were to keep going, the sample will turn brown one to two drops later.

 
Just a thought, It could be the SWG cell. If a cell's controller is reporting low salt and the salinity tests are coming out correct its usually the first indication the cell is going bad. The Salinity reading on the controller is only as good as the probe on the cell. If this is a brand new unit I would call the PB to have them test the whole system while its still under their warranty.
 
This is a bad idea. It will only confuse things and create doubt. You have the best test kit available. Trust the results.

Check out the video below. The salt test a bit different than other titration tests. In other tests, you keep dropping until there is no color change, then subtract the last drop. With the salt test, the end point is a signaled by a color change to "milky salmon brick red." If you were to keep going, the sample will turn brown one to two drops later.

Thanks! Yes, that's what I'm doing.
 
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The extended test directions for the TA and CH each read,

"Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count."

It's really the only means of insuring there will be no further color change. It doesn't apply to the FC/CC tests since your endpoint is a clear sample.

 
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