Pretty sure it's ammonia, I'm on my 3rd round bringing it up to 10ppm, took over a gallon of 10% each time so far. Water way clearer than it was
Won't stop, until the last 4 gallons run out, then back to Lowe's for me.Don't stop now!
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I don't think I will ever forget that, not after 33 bottles of lc so far nowGreat!!!
So remember for the future, if you find your water has 0 CYA and you know there was some in it before, do the ammonia protocol before adding CYA.
Good job.
Don't bother with the OCLT yet - way too early. Even the CC test can wait. Save all your energy and reagents for the FC test alone. If it's getting pulled-down, it has to be either becasue it's still fighting residual ammonia and/or you have lots or remaining products (i.e. antifreeze) in your water from winter. Hopefully the bleach itself is of good quality and at the strength (%) you expect. Also make sure in the PoolMath tool, the correct bleach % is being used. Other than that, you're still in a bit of a fight. Chlorine (bleach) is your best weapon, and you'll just need to do your best to increase the FC and test quickly to ensure you achieve your FC goal, the re-test to see how fast it's dropping. Evenetually, the dropping will slow-down and everything will be more steady. Hang in there.OCLT was from 15 to .5.
Great!!!
So remember for the future, if you find your water has 0 CYA and you know there was some in it before, do the ammonia protocol before adding CYA.
Good job.
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC. If at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation.@mknauss Don’t mean to hijack, but what is the ammonia protocol?!