Trying to break away from Pool Stores and need some help please.

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Jumper Dude

Jumper Dude

Member
Oct 13, 2019
8
Fulshear , Texas
So my test kit arrived yesterday. I removed all chlorine tablets yesterday and took a reading this morning.
18,000 gallons / plaster pool
FC-3.5
PH-7.8
TA-90
CH-525
CYA-100
CC-2.5
CL-1

I know my harness is way off hence the reason Im attempting to get away from the Pool Stores, all was good until I got a little algae , pool store recommended Green to Clean followed by 12 pounds of shock over 24 hour period. Since then Ive battled to get chlorine up and hardness down. Over a week Pool Store told me drain and refill 4 inches, next day they told me 12 inches, following day told me to overflow pool for 4 hours - nothing helped. During this time my chlorine was 0 - they told me to have 3 tablets in floater in pool and then 4 in the chlorinator .

How do I fix this mess ??

I am playing with the Pool Math calculator but not show what target numbers should be.
 
Also the FC is really TC of 3.5
You obviously have alage in the water. You need to read pool school as you'll need to slam away with a CC of 2.5.
With that high of Cya or maybe higher the amount of liquid chlorine will be alot. Once you determine the Cya you will have to do a drain and refill. Aim for 30 - 50 Cya. Bring the PH down to the low 7s and start slaming with liquid chlorine.
 
Start by getting a good read on your CYA level since that determines if you need to lower it with a drain or water exchange before you follow the SLAM Process

Do step 8 in CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
Post the results of that test and we will figure out next steps. Let us take this one step at a time.
 
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First, welcome to TFP!!

Now, you say "my test kit arrived yesterday"; which test kit did you get?

For now we are going to ignore CH and TA, they are not part of your current problems.

100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. The problem is that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the rage of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.



Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5
 
ajw22 said:
Start by getting a good read on your CYA level since that determines if you need to lower it with a drain or water exchange before you follow the SLAM Process

Do step 8 in CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
Post the results of that test and we will figure out next steps. Let us take this one step at a time.
Click to expand...
Repeating the test as instructed i now have a reading of 50.
 
tim5055 said:
First, welcome to TFP!!

Now, you say "my test kit arrived yesterday"; which test kit did you get?

For now we are going to ignore CH and TA, they are not part of your current problems.

100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. The problem is that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the rage of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.



Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5
Click to expand...
The kit I purchased is TF-100 plus got the speed stirrer as Im lazy
 
Yes. it looks like you are indeed at 100. Which is not great, but it is more than twice as good as 200! ;)

You are still looking at a water exchange.
 
Then CYA 100 it is. You really should get your CYA down to the 30-50 range. That is at least a 50% water replacement of your pool. 9,000 - 12,000 gallons.

It would help us in this and future discussions if you Create Your Signature.

You can do a No Drain Water Exchange or drain and refill your pool depending on your water situation.

After you get your CYA down then follow the SLAM Process.

The difference is at CYA 30 you only need to raise your FC to 12 ppm while at CYA 100 you will need 39 ppm. Much less jugs of chlorine you will need to buy and carry. A gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 5.6 ppm.

You need to remove the tablets from your floater and stop using them. They are just adding to your CYA problem. You need to begin chlorinating with liquid chlorine.
 
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ajw22 said:
Then CYA 100 it is. You really should get your CYA down to the 30-50 range. That is at least a 50% water replacement of your pool. 9,000 - 12,000 gallons.

It would help us in this and future discussions if you Create Your Signature.

You can do a No Drain Water Exchange or drain and refill your pool depending on your water situation.

After you get your CYA down then follow the SLAM Process.

The difference is at CYA 30 you only need to raise your FC to 12 ppm while at CYA 100 you will need 39 ppm. Much less jugs of chlorine you will need to buy and carry. A gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 5.6 ppm.

You need to remove the tablets from your floater and stop using them. They are just adding to your CYA problem. You need to begin chlorinating with liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help
 
You need to follow through here as instructed and as daunting as it may sound all of here have been in one situation or another so the guidance and advice is the best out there. Resist the temptation to go one last time to the PS for some quick fix because there ain't any out there. Ask as many questions as you have and there's no such thing as too many.
 
The Green to Clean product the pool stores had you use can chew thru chlorine until all that "potion" has been depleted by yet more chlorine. So I'd venture to say your pool store has contributed to your problems.

If you could please, make a signature line out describing your pool surface, your equipment, how you chlorinate and that you do have that test kit. This all helps us know how to answer without having to toss delaying questions to you. You can find the signature under "Settings". Thanks :)

Maddie :flower:
 
Jumper Dude said:
Set up signature line but its not showing up.
Click to expand...
I see it.

Jumper Dude said:
Cheers - What Im trying to find is the recommend levels for all tests.
Click to expand...
All of this is in Pool School....

Start with these:

www.troublefreepool.com

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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