Today I noticed the pool's hue shifted slightly and was more green than blue, checked FC and came back at 0 and checking the cameras over the last week I can see it started about 4 days ago. I picked up some liquid chlorine in the meantime and dumped 1 gallon in to boost the FC and kill off any organics. I'll get a proper FC/TC tomorrow after running overnight. I didn't feel comfortable dumping more than 1 gallon in, based on Pool Math the 1 gallon should have brought my FC up to at least 5, if that's close and there's no CC I'll just add whatever amount I need daily until the SWG issue gets resolved, if there is CC I'll dump another gallon tomorrow and cover the pool to help prevent the chlorine from burning off from our crazy amount of UV and heat.
I made a post a little over a year ago. I am a first-time pool owner, had a build done back in 2022 and I told the builder that was sure the T-3 was going to be severely undersized but that's what I ended up with.
I did some basic troubleshooting, the instant salt reading (I believe the default screen is the instant level?) shows 0. The lights on Aquarite are "Check Salt" and "Inspect Cell". The cell is clean, no deposits at all. In the 18~ months I've had it I've done a single acid wash due to build up. My pH is always running high and I need to dump in about 16-32oz every few days and I got a bit lazy over the Summer so it did scale a bit but the cell didn't have too much. Based on everything I have read on here it's best to avoid acid washing as much as possible. For reference, it was a 4:1 water/acid ratio.
I did the recalibrate which if I recall was Auto-Off-Auto and diag 5 times but that still showed 0. I then switched to Super Chlorinate (lights were still in the same configuration) but I saw bubbles out of the returns which indicated it was, at least, briefly generating chlorine. After a minute or two it stopped bubbling. For safety, I turned the Aquarite to Off for now.
It looks like it could go either way and be a cell or a mainboard issue. In both cases they are under warranty. I do have a Leslie's nearby and my understanding is they do have the capability to test the cell and being a Hayward dealer they can get a warranty replacement with Hayward and get a new cell. Are they actually plugging it into a system (unlikely?) or using a DMM on it to check specific pins? (also unlikely?). Assuming it is the cell my plan is to RMA out the T-3 and keep it as a spare and place an order for a T-15. Alternatively I did see for around $1400 that Circupool makes a pretty nice system that looks like it's effectively a drop in and can use the existing unions from the Hayward and that claims 8 year warranty with "world class" customer service.
I am not a fan of B&M stores in general however based on current pricing ($899, although I swear it was $799 a few months ago but could be misremembering) as far as Hayward OEM, this is not a terrible price.
My SWG has been running roughly 12 hours a day (sometimes more sometimes less) for the last ~18 months at usually between 80-100% with the last 6+ months at 100% with CyA being a bit varied, last Summer I had it around 80-90, right now it's around 50 which may be contributing to having it run at 100% but I did also increase the runtime by a few hours. I used to have it running from 8-6 now it's 6-8.
I made a post a little over a year ago. I am a first-time pool owner, had a build done back in 2022 and I told the builder that was sure the T-3 was going to be severely undersized but that's what I ended up with.
I did some basic troubleshooting, the instant salt reading (I believe the default screen is the instant level?) shows 0. The lights on Aquarite are "Check Salt" and "Inspect Cell". The cell is clean, no deposits at all. In the 18~ months I've had it I've done a single acid wash due to build up. My pH is always running high and I need to dump in about 16-32oz every few days and I got a bit lazy over the Summer so it did scale a bit but the cell didn't have too much. Based on everything I have read on here it's best to avoid acid washing as much as possible. For reference, it was a 4:1 water/acid ratio.
I did the recalibrate which if I recall was Auto-Off-Auto and diag 5 times but that still showed 0. I then switched to Super Chlorinate (lights were still in the same configuration) but I saw bubbles out of the returns which indicated it was, at least, briefly generating chlorine. After a minute or two it stopped bubbling. For safety, I turned the Aquarite to Off for now.
It looks like it could go either way and be a cell or a mainboard issue. In both cases they are under warranty. I do have a Leslie's nearby and my understanding is they do have the capability to test the cell and being a Hayward dealer they can get a warranty replacement with Hayward and get a new cell. Are they actually plugging it into a system (unlikely?) or using a DMM on it to check specific pins? (also unlikely?). Assuming it is the cell my plan is to RMA out the T-3 and keep it as a spare and place an order for a T-15. Alternatively I did see for around $1400 that Circupool makes a pretty nice system that looks like it's effectively a drop in and can use the existing unions from the Hayward and that claims 8 year warranty with "world class" customer service.
I am not a fan of B&M stores in general however based on current pricing ($899, although I swear it was $799 a few months ago but could be misremembering) as far as Hayward OEM, this is not a terrible price.
My SWG has been running roughly 12 hours a day (sometimes more sometimes less) for the last ~18 months at usually between 80-100% with the last 6+ months at 100% with CyA being a bit varied, last Summer I had it around 80-90, right now it's around 50 which may be contributing to having it run at 100% but I did also increase the runtime by a few hours. I used to have it running from 8-6 now it's 6-8.
