Transformer keeps blowing, think it's an actuator maybe?

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T

trophft

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 16, 2014
167
Port Neches, TX
So my Jandy equipment is officially out of warranty.
Trying to troubleshoot it myself to save some money (and hopefully get it fixed faster; pool techs are sparse around here).
A buddy helped diagnose a bad transformer, but new one blew again shortly thereafter.
Replaced again, and just left the 2 valves unplugged from board...so I could keep water circulating in pool.
Like an idiot I plugged the 2 valves back in today and blew transformer again.
So he said might be a bad valve actuator...? So we unplugged the valves again.
Now I tried searching TFP and saw some threads mention bad driver chip? Saw another post mention bad microswitch inside JVR 2444?
I've opened the valve actuators and nothing looks burnt up or smells burnt.
Is it possible to test or rule out each of these to determine a possible culprit? Or should I just buy 2 new actuators, and a new transformer?
I assume I need to replace the transformer so that I can power up the board and test other components, but every time I plug in the valve relays the transformer blows (on my 4th one now). In the meantime my TFP water is going green from no circulation.
Any ideas or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!
 

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trophft said:
So my Jandy equipment is officially out of warranty.
Trying to troubleshoot it myself to save some money (and hopefully get it fixed faster; pool techs are sparse around here).
A buddy helped diagnose a bad transformer, but new one blew again shortly thereafter.
Replaced again, and just left the 2 valves unplugged from board...so I could keep water circulating in pool.
Like an idiot I plugged the 2 valves back in today and blew transformer again.
So he said might be a bad valve actuator...? So we unplugged the valves again.
Now I tried searching TFP and saw some threads mention bad driver chip? Saw another post mention bad microswitch inside JVR 2444?
I've opened the valve actuators and nothing looks burnt up or smells burnt.
Is it possible to test or rule out each of these to determine a possible culprit? Or should I just buy 2 new actuators, and a new transformer?
I assume I need to replace the transformer so that I can power up the board and test other components, but every time I plug in the valve relays the transformer blows (on my 4th one now). In the meantime my TFP water is going green from no circulation.
Any ideas or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!
Click to expand...
Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

If you know how to use a multimeter to check for continuity or shorts you can check each actuator.

Valve Actuators - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I do have one, but only use it to test batteries and electrical outlets. I'm sure I could YouTube continuity testing in general, but not sure how I'd test the actuators? Test each microswitch? and can I test for continuity with a bad transformer (don't need power, correct?)?
Honestly I'm more of a "pay a guy to do it" but there are no reputable "guys" to pay. I'm not mechanically or electronically savvy.
I've been perusing the TFP actuator repair section (and this thread CVA24-T Actuator Details) but it's mostly Greek to me.
 
Then just buy two new actuators and a transformer and move on with your life.
 
T,

I know nothing about Jandy stuff... :mrgreen:

That said, some things are pretty common..

The fuse on the card 'should' prevent the transformer from blowing up if overloaded.. The fact that this has happened several times tells me that something is not right... :scratch:

What size is the current fuse?

Did you initially have to replace the fuse? Did you put in a much bigger fuse, or a slow blow fuse?? Is the required fuse size printed on the board?

Are you sure that you have the correct transformer?? Do you have a pic of the original transformer?

Keep in mind that the fuse 'might not' protect the valve connections, but that would be pretty poor engineering... :cry:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Show us your Aqualink board.

What Rev is on the sticker on the CPU chip?
 
Jim,

The fuse currently in the board is good. Size is 3.15amp 250V ~1"x3/16" glass filament fuse.
There is an identical blown fuse laying in the bottom of the panel (I assume was blown from the first transformer replacement performed by the "pool guy buddy").
I also assume that the current transformer is an OEM replacement since that was done by the "pool guy buddy" and it says Zodiac on it (he replaced it 3 times always with that same model shown in pic).
And yes, I know what happens when one assumes...:brickwall:
 

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Jimrahbe said:
T,

It may be normal, but why have a 3.15 amp fuse on a transformer that has a max output of 2.5 amps???

Unless the point is to burn up transformers... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
well at $180/transformer and $0.60/fuse I'm thinking the "pool guy buddy" might have a racket going on here...he's a Jandy Authorized rep, that's how I contacted him (I also realized I taught his siblings in High School) so he came out and did all this back in October, but has since ghosted me (never invoiced me for the initial troubleshooting, or the 3 transformers which he said he would eat since he didn't know exactly why they were blowing, he just said "leave the valves unplugged). So everything would have been fine if I hadn't re-plugged in the 2 valves and blew this latest transformer (brain fart on my part). They are in the middle of several pool builds so I know I just got put on the back burner for larger ticket jobs, and then forgotten. No return calls, nada.
 
Jimrahbe said:
T,

It may be normal, but why have a 3.15 amp fuse on a transformer that has a max output of 2.5 amps???

Unless the point is to burn up transformers... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
That is the correct Aqualink fuse - Jandy p/n 6658
 
trophft said:
and to your point, if I replace both actuators with TORK TPE24VA's ($90 each on Amazon) and another Zodiac transformer ($180), is it possible that wasn't the problem, it blows, and I'm back to square one?
Click to expand...
Yes, unless you have a variable voltage and amperage power supply that you can substitute for the transformer to bench test the board. Such a power supply has circuit breakers to protect itself and you can measure what the voltage and amps are into the board.

@ogdento can discuss how he tests boards with a bad power supply.
 

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