tough week of crash course learning about water testing here

mxxmikexx

Active member
Jul 11, 2022
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I'll try and keep this as short as I can.
july 3rd my 15k above ground started getting cloudy on me, my liquid test kit was telling me my FC was "decent" at or about 4ppm- I only have a inexpesive pool master brand 5 way test kit, so I was only monitoring FC and Ph. somehow I've skated by for 10 years only really every measuring these 2 factors...... i know much better now!

so, the water turned cloudy but never got green.. my test report at leslies came back that my FC and TC were VERY far apart. my FC was only 1.91 and TC was 10.98 !
ph was 7.1
TA 139
calcium hardness 121
CYA 79
iron 0
copper .4
phosphates 635
TDS 600
so leslies told me to add 14lbs of granulated shock to the pool......... which absolutely skyrocketed my FC through the roof. after i added all that shock, leslies test result was showing 15ppm on FC and TC after I did that. but then we came to find out that their system maxes out at 15 and my water was actually MUCH higher than 15 because I did a 50% water drain and refilled and AFTER a 50% refill my water is JUST now testing 12.97 on FC and TC according to their test this morning. this is about 12 hours after the water refilled yesterday early afternooon, so the pumps been circulating the new water for less than 24hours with this most recent test
(they never explained to me that by adding so much shock, how high this was going to skyrocket my FC, and how long this was going to take for it to come down on its own)
and the rest of todays test results are as follows: (picture I attached is also the same test from today)
ph is 7.9
TA 140
Calcium hardness 155 ( i do have a heater)
CYA 41
iron 0
copper .3
phosphates 542
TDS 600

so heres my main questions right now:
1. I'm assuming my FC can realistically afford to come down by approx 50%, correct? based on my CYA of 41 . and if so, I was thinking about picking up some sodium thiosulfate to expedite this process- unless of course there's any potential for causing any ILL wanted effects to the rest of my readings by adding the Sodium thio?
2. my TA needs to come down and my ph is on the higher end already, so adding muriatic acid is probably prudent at this point? leslies tells me to add 2 quarts of liquid muriatic for this.
 

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Welcome!

First, the most important part of caring for your pool yourself is testing the water yourself with a reliable test kit. Check out Test Kits Compared. Pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate and inconsistent.

Once you get a recommended test kit, you'll need to complete a SLAM (SLAM Process) to ensure no algae is leftover. Or at least do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule it out.

After that, follow the FC/CYA Levels and keep your FC at the proper level using liquid chlorine daily and you'll surely enjoy a trouble free pool.

In the meantime, i also recommend reading Pool Care Basics and download the poolmath app on your phone.
 
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thanks for the response.
unfortunately, those kits you mention simply are not in my budget at the moment. I just ordered an hth 6 way kit that was in my budget and I'm at least hoping will be somewhat better than my "poolmaster" brand that Ive been using. next season I plan on getting one of these better kits you mention.
I am briefly familiar with the SLAM process , but i have to ask. knowing that I just dumped 14 lbs of shock in my pool on monday (7/11) and that my FC level was then through the roof and required a 50% water drain to just now get levels down to 12.9, isnt it kind of safe to assume that I pretty much nuked anything in that water by now?
thank you for your time and advice. it is appreciated !
 
knowing that I just dumped 14 lbs of shock in my pool on monday (7/11) and that my FC level was then through the roof and required a 50% water drain to just now get levels down to 12.9, isnt it kind of safe to assume that I pretty much nuked anything in that water by now?

Maybe but not necessarily. One good "shocking" isn't usually enough to completely kill all the algae. The most important part of a SLAM (Shock, Level and Maintain) is the maintain part. Keeping the chlorine at SLAM (shock) level consistently and usually over several days or more is important.

Unfortunately, you can't do a proper SLAM or an overnight chlorine loss test without the proper test kit.

I believe the HTH test kit uses the oto chlorine test and will only test up to 5ppm chlorine. That won't be enough. The cost of a good test kit will save you lots of money in chemicals you'll end up buying to fix issues that arise later. It honestly does pay for itself quickly.
 
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fair enough. I see your point about spending more on the test kit now. maybe I'll see about returning this HTH kit as it hasnt even arrived from amazon yet. and I just missed out on one of the taylor kits was like $80 on amazon the other day and now its back up to $100+ ugh!
I do know that i had 14 lbs of shock added in full by early monday afternoon, and i didnt start draining water until thur afternoon 7/14. so from monday till thur afternoon that FC level was through the roof with that much shock
 
Send back the HTH - it does you no good. The OTO tests are only useful for FC lower than 5.0 and are color block, not drop based. It’s basically a simple dumb test for presence of chlorine, but not much more than that.

Bare minimum, you need a Taylor FAS-DPD test for chlorine. It’s sold stand-alone and part of several kits.
 
Add the SmartStir and you get free shipping. Makes testing so much easier. But it is a luxury.
 

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I do not recommend the pH pen. They are quite fussy and need calibration constantly, etc. Better to get the SmartStir.
 
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