To SLAM or not to SLAM

MikeDub

Member
Feb 22, 2021
13
Murrieta, CA
Pool Size
8403
So first my pH hit the high end of the band at 8.00 so I decided it was time to get my TA in check as well as it was about 150ppm. So I added Muriatic Acid and lowered to 7.20 then I removed my Intex autocleaner from the return of my pump and opened the "aerator" on the valve to add some bubbles, then put my pump on 24/7. After a few days of checking everything and watching pH creep back up to 7.5 out of nowhere my FC hit 0. And I know according to the SLAM prereqs, hitting 0 on FC is one of them. But because it wasn't a long period I just added enough bleach to get it up to 6ppm. I tested it and it was indeed 6ppm. The next day I checked and see a greenish tinge and some green spots on the sides and a green film growing on the ladder. But I checked FC and it was 4.0 and CC was 0. This is exactly what I'd expect if there were no algae. I checked again today and I have 2.0 FC which is the usual deterioration and once again 0 CC. Still a few green spots and green film. I added bleach as I usually would back up to 6ppm. So my question is because I hit 0 FC and I see green algae looking stuff should I just SLAM to be safe? I'm just confused because the numbers don't indicate that the Cl is attacking anything alive. What would you all do?

Other info:
AG Intex 24x12 ultra frame 8k gal
Intex sf80110-1
Southern California Avg weather 70-90 degrees
Test kit: TF-100
Chem:
FC: 6
pH: 7.5
TA: 100
CH: 200
CYA: 30
Temp: 76
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
41,784
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
41,784
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Three criteria -- Crystal clear pool - you have algae
CC zero
OCLT 1 ppm FC loss or less.