Time to replace T15

[RenegadeT]

A few days ago I noticed salt level on controller said 2900ppm. I didn't have any to add, until 2 days later when I was getting errors on my Blue Haven /Hayward controller...CHLORINATOR OFF/TEST SALT LEVEL, CHECK SYSTEM/VERY LOW SALT and INSTANT SALT/CHLORINATOR OFF.
I added 2x40lbs, no change overnight. Brought a water sample to pool store, they said it was 4000, surprisingly.
So I took the T15 off, looked clean, but I acid washed it anyway, no change.

I can't get any voltage or amperage readings. How do I confirm my cell is dead?
Number on my cell is 3E12199, reading that means 2012day199 [mid August], so almost 9yrs old. Not bad at all, but I want to make sure nothing else is bad.

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[RenegadeT]

Thanks. I have either ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus controller (says GOLDLINE). Here's my readings;

-30.23V. -0.39A
80deg F. 0000 PPM

+30.57V +0.12A
80deg F. 0000 PPM

 

[JamesW]

Based on the age and the readings, I think that the cell is probably bad.

You can pull the main circuit board to examine it for damage if you want to see if it might have any damage, but the cell is the most likely problem.