Thread number 10000 on CYA and in-line chlorinator

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It is. You must get a mix of Colorado River water and some other soft water source. Nice water.
 
mknauss said:
It is. You must get a mix of Colorado River water and some other soft water source. Nice water.
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I just ran the math on how much it’ll cost in water to fill 8,000 gallons. I was shocked to see it’ll be $26.40. Add a utility pump that cost $50 and I wonder why everybody doesn’t do this method when numbers get crazy instead of spending hundreds in chemicals. Or am I missing something?
 
Only caveat is if your sewer district charges you based on water use. Ours does not, and our water is right at $3 a thousand. Like yours.

Most people do not test their own water or come to a site like TFP to understand their chemistry. They do whatever the pool store or a pool 'professional' tells them.
 
Surfnsnowboard3 said:
fyi I tested my tap water CH and it’s 120. Is that low for SoCal?
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Mine ranges between 100-125 here. During the rainy season, you can drain off a few inches of water and allow the rain to refill. We had over 20" of rain in the last few months. If you stay away from tablets and granular chlorine, you may never need to drain again.
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Mine ranges between 100-125 here. During the rainy season, you can drain off a few inches of water and allow the rain to refill. We had over 20" of rain in the last few months. If you stay away from tablets and granular chlorine, you may never need to drain again.
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I bought 20 gallons of liquid chlorine at Home Depot while buying the pump. Is it ok to keep 1 or 2 tabs in my chlorinator to supplement the liquid chlorine? If so, is there a way of telling at what rate my cya will rise based on those tabs?
 
I would not leave tabs in the chlorinator. Technically you should run your pump 24 hours per day with tablets in a chlorinator.

When you are going to be away for a few days, then put a couple tablets in a floater. That will add some FC while you are gone. You just account for the CYA they add when determining what FC to maintain.

PoolMath will tell you how much CYA and chlorine will be added by an 8 oz tablet to your pool.
I just used my Poolmath, and in your pool volume, each tablet will add 4 ppm FC and 2.4 ppm CYA.
 
mknauss said:
I would not leave tabs in the chlorinator. Technically you should run your pump 24 hours per day with tablets in a chlorinator.

When you are going to be away for a few days, then put a couple tablets in a floater. That will add some FC while you are gone. You just account for the CYA they add when determining what FC to maintain.

PoolMath will tell you how much CYA and chlorine will be added by an 8 oz tablet to your pool.
I just used my Poolmath, and in your pool volume, each tablet will add 4 ppm FC and 2.4 ppm CYA.
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Jesus. No wonder my cya skyrocketed in less than a year. My pool was finished last August.
 
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On another note, my pool builder installed a Pentair UV sanitizer with my system. Unbeknownst to me, the light has been burnt out for an unknown period of time. It could have never been on from the beginning. It’s getting replaced this week. I also bought a Pool Rx. Assuming both those are working properly, and everything else is balanced, what should I keep my free chlorine ppm at?
 
The UV light does nothing. Do not use the PoolRx, it is copper. You will risk staining your pool surface. And it will turn blonde hair green.
 

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Surfnsnowboard3 said:
I just ran the math on how much it’ll cost in water to fill 8,000 gallons. I was shocked to see it’ll be $26.40. Add a utility pump that cost $50 and I wonder why everybody doesn’t do this method when numbers get crazy instead of spending hundreds in chemicals. Or am I missing something?
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High CYA and high salt are really the only reasons to drain and refill. everything else can be done via chemistry. (well I guess high Cal falls in there too)... more often it seems the costs of the chems to fix a bad situation is about the same as to startup fresh water. Not to mention the potential damage to the liners or plaster if full drain is done or a pool popping out where there is a high water table. It kind of depends on the situation and as always there are exceptions. like renovating a pool and discovering a planters, bicycles and my favorite a dead deer in the slimy depths.
 
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Surfnsnowboard3 said:
On another note, my pool builder installed a Pentair UV sanitizer with my system. Unbeknownst to me, the light has been burnt out for an unknown period of time. It could have never been on from the beginning. It’s getting replaced this week. I also bought a Pool Rx. Assuming both those are working properly, and everything else is balanced, what should I keep my free chlorine ppm at?
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What Marty said... you get plenty of UV from the sun.. I've been to Redlands I know. ;) Even with those gizmos you need to maintain the target FC to sanitize bacteria, not just Algae.
 
Looks good. I would have to do the math on the CH to see if it makes sense. But I would call that a success.
 

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