Thinking of putting in a SWG and would love some thoughts!

[MorganJ]

okay awesome this has me feeling ready!

as i get prepared for the SWG install i understand i need to get my CYA up pretty high.

my CYA levels have been really low recently (around 20). what’s the recommended method for increasing CYA and maintaining the correct levels for a SWG?

i know this will make the forum mad, but i’ve been using leslie’s instant conditioner to this point (i’m sorry, it’s my first pool!!!!)

 

[proavia]

Granular stabilizer added via the sock method is the easiest and most economical way to increase CYA.

Get the CYA up to 50 for now. Use the FC/CYA Levels to determine the FC level for your CYA.
Once you add the CYA via the sock method, consider it in the pool and dose FC accordingly. Use the non-SWG part of the chart until your SWG is fully operational - and during winter when the SWG stops producing due to colder water temps.

 

[Newdude]

i know this will make the forum mad, but i’ve been using leslie’s instant conditioner to this point (i’m sorry, it’s my first pool!!!!)

No worries. The liquid stuff clumps at the bottom and makes small doses difficult. Not enough, not enough, not enough, oH CRUD too much.

Plus it's spendy. So we hang granuals in a sock in front of a return, carrot on a stick like. After some soak time, it squishes right out.

Always pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising the CYA significantly. You may think there's no algae brewing, but SLAM target is 12 FC for 30 CYA, and 28 FC for 70 CYA. So it's a costly error maintaining the higher FC for SLAM when you were wrong.

 

[MorganJ]

is there a granular stabilizer product you’d recommend? ideally something i can buy online, but can drive to a big box store if needed as well

 

[mknauss]

You can get stabilizer on Amazon. RxClear, PoolMate, PuriTech are all good brands. Look at price per lb. Your pool size and you get rain buying 25 lbs would be reasonable. Keep dry and it will last a long time.

 

[MorganJ]

The brand recommendations are super helpful, thank you! I also noticed most people here use liquid chlorine (im currently shocking with cal hypo granules). Would you recommend a switch to liquid? If so, any brand recommendations?
I really can't thank you enough for all the help, I realize I'm asking a bunch of basic questions but its hard to get everything calibrated while at the same time working full time and raising three young kids - you are doing god's work!

 

[mknauss]

Cal Hypo is fine, if, your water chemistry can handle the extra calcium and you are careful to be sure it full dissolves such that it does not stain your pool surface. Also it can cloud the water if you happen to add other chemicals at the same time (baking soda, soda ash, etc).

Walmart sells Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid. A good source for liquid chlorine.

 

[MorganJ]

okay, i’ve received my test kit. here are my readings, want to make sure i have a solid plan to prepare for install of SWG.

FC- 2.0

CYA - 30

PH - 7.4

TA - 100

here’s my understanding of what i need to do next, with a few questions

1. start with an overnight chlorine loss test.
2. if fails, SLAM
3. if pass, use sock method and CYA to raise levels to 60
4. ensure chlorine levels are appropriate given higher CYA
5. add pool salt and run pump until fully incorporated (QUESTION - how much salt do i add? how do we know when it’s safe to turn on cell?)
6. adjust VSP until it activates cell to find ideal run speed, set pump to 100 rpm over min threshold
7. perform loss test in order to find ideal settings

 

[Texas Splash]

You have a very good plan forward. For the salt amount, have you tested your salt level? Do you have a K-1766 salt test kit? You may have some salt in the water already, so you don't want to overshoot your goal. Once you know your current salt level, you can use the PoolMath APP to determine how much salt is required to reach your intended goal. Remember, the salt needs to fully dissolve and mix with the water for at least 24 hrs before you turn on the cell.

Not sure what you meant for item #7. But once your SWG is operational, simply test the FC each day to see if it is holding properly in the desired range. You can adjust the SWG output and/or pump run time as need for more or less FC production. Hope that helps.

 

[kellyfair]

Definitely get that salt kit mentioned about, so you don’t accidentally overshoot the salt addition.

 

[MorganJ]

I don't know of any off the top of my head. There are too many systems and combos and preferences withing those combos.

For example, what's your pump runtime ?

Variable speed or single speed ?

Which unit did you decide on ?

We'll go from there and create a custom plan for you, then be your wing people as you learn.

In a nutshell, the unit is a dumb device and adds what you tell it to add. You can alter runtime, where10 hours on at 100% will create more FC than 6 hours, or you can alter the percentage of runtime within a pump runtime window. 20% / 40% / 60 % of 10 hours.

Either way skins the cat, and hours produing are hours off the lifespan, no matter how you do it. 50% of 24 hours equals 100% of 12 hours. (Etc etc etc).

hey there! the unit has been installed and i’m so excited to see FC flowing

i wanted to ask your advice on how to get things dialed in. i just did a FC test first thing in the morning (have the pump running 6am to 12pm and SWG at 100%) and got a reading of 13ppm! any advice on how to dial things in? my CYA is at 50, so thinking around 6ppm for FC is my target range

 

[Newdude]

any advice on how to dial things in?

Just wanted to confirm you have a T15 cell. You signature says the 40k (T15) but your profile says T5.

If T15, it will produce a little over 1FC every 3 hours on in 24 k gallons. So if it's on 18 hours straight right now (100%) that's about 6ppm it will make per day. If it's on for 9 of the 18 hours (50%) it will produce 3 ppm. (Etc for any other maths).

You are likely losing around 3 ppm daily (season winding down, but still sunny CA) and need to match whatever the recent loss has been.

Pull the SWG's power or set it to 0%. In 2 days or so when the FC hits 8 or 9, run the cell for 9 hours at 100% (18 hours/50% etc etc) to produce the 3ppm a day and fine tune it from there.

 

[MorganJ]

thank you! it’s actually a turbo cell t-15, accidentally added the wrong one.

 

[MorganJ]

Just wanted to confirm you have a T15 cell. You signature says the 40k (T15) but your profile says T5.

If T15, it will produce a little over 1FC every 3 hours on in 24 k gallons. So if it's on 18 hours straight right now (100%) that's about 6ppm it will make per day. If it's on for 9 of the 18 hours (50%) it will produce 3 ppm. (Etc for any other maths).

You are likely losing around 3 ppm daily (season winding down, but still sunny CA) and need to match whatever the recent loss has been.

Pull the SWG's power or set it to 0%. In 2 days or so when the FC hits 8 or 9, run the cell for 9 hours at 100% (18 hours/50% etc etc) to produce the 3ppm a day and fine tune it from there.

What’s the best time of day to test to ensure it’s producing the right amount of FC to balance at my target?

 

[Newdude]

What’s the best time of day to test to ensure it’s producing the right amount of FC to balance at my target?

Anytime is fine. But recognize where you are in regards to any daily swing.

For example, if you test before the cell runs that day, you are testing at the low point before the cell adds the FC back.

When you are testing after the cell produced the days FC, you are testing the high point of the day and it will drift down a little until the cell runs again.

*the term 'day' in the above examples refers to the 24 hour cycle which may include nighttime cell production that 'day'.

Testing a 7 is fine at the low point of the day because its only going to go up. Testing a 7 at the high point may or may not be enough to cover your daily swing after.