Thinking about the RJ-60 for my pool. Trying to squeeze it in between my heater and my caretaker system. Already have the check valve to the left of the caretaker. Do I need to move the check valve before the SWG?
Thinking about a Circupool RJ-60 and looking at my plumbing setup to see it. What is this gizmo after my heater. Connected only to bonding wire.
- Thread starter Mark’s Pool
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Thinking about the RJ-60 for my pool. Trying to squeeze it in between my heater and my caretaker system. Already have the check valve to the left of the caretaker. Do I need to move the check valve before the SWG?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,386
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Install the RJ60 vertically in the leg on the heater output.
I think Circupool has a vertical install kit with the fittings you need.
I don’t see why you need that check valve.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Allen - are we sure that is a check valve? Looks like one of those copper things with the screw off top.
There are two gizmos between my heater and my returns. The first photo shows a PVC with a copper this ink coming out that is attached to a bonding wire that goes to my pump and heater. Then downstream is what I think is a check valve and then an electric (automation valve) that diverts the water to my caretaker (pop-up pool bottoms jets) system and then my return valves. My equipment is below pool grade so wondered if that was the reason for the check valve. Wondered if the bonded gizmo was because of the electric diverted valve; but not sure. Any concerns with having that bonded gizmo right next to the SWG cell? Any special concerns with my heater and SWG?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I am by no means an expert but isn’t that an electrical water bonding lug? I thought these were required by code? I would think removing it completely could be a problem.
Makes sense. I have the same thing in my system and am about to install an RJ30+ so figured I’d ask the question.
MITBeta
Gold Supporter
- May 28, 2020
- 1,239
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,386
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I also think it is a water bond.
And when the pool is off the check valve cuts off the connection of the water bond to the pool water. Any swimming while the pump is off is swimming in an unbonded pool.
That is a poor location for the water bond. The water bond should be in a location where the bond is always in contact with the pool water whether the pump is on of off.
And when the pool is off the check valve cuts off the connection of the water bond to the pool water. Any swimming while the pump is off is swimming in an unbonded pool.
That is a poor location for the water bond. The water bond should be in a location where the bond is always in contact with the pool water whether the pump is on of off.
Would you recommend that I switch places between the check valve and the water bond lug then? And have the SWG cell between them?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,386
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
With your pool equipment below the water line the CV allows you to work on the equipment without water flowing back from the return line.
Moving the CV to where the water bond is will place it before the SWG and the CV not be effective in stopping water if you need to remove the SWG cell for inspection.
Do those ball valves in the return lines work and turn smoothly? If the ball valves work then you don't need the CV to stop the water flow. You can close the ball valves. Until the ball valves begin sticking, which they eventually do.
Those valves do seem to be working well at this point. Do I need a sacrificial zinc anode? And if so, does it matter where in sequence that goes?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,386
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I'd agree with AJ above but if you absolutely want to keep the water bond albeit it involves work. You can open the three unions marked in green and either one of the two vertical pipes going into the ground, you can dig down enough to put in a tee and still let the lower half of the union to be back in the same place to put the pipes back together. Atleast the water bond will always be in water. Then I'd use the vertical kit to plumb in the SWCG with the flow switch. Without a vertical kit you're still short for the install.
Attachments
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,818
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
After the heater, the "T" with the copper wire attached is probably a water bond - not an anode.
The black section with the cap is possibly a Waterway check valve.
Is your equipment above or below the level of your pool?
Do you have automation? I see an AquaLink box and a few other boxes.
While you may have to reposition the water bond, installing the SWG using a vertical install kit would be the easiest.
Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment/automation (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit. This helps us to better help you without needing to ask every time.
The black section with the cap is possibly a Waterway check valve.
Is your equipment above or below the level of your pool?
Do you have automation? I see an AquaLink box and a few other boxes.
While you may have to reposition the water bond, installing the SWG using a vertical install kit would be the easiest.
Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment/automation (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit. This helps us to better help you without needing to ask every time.
I have updated signature now. Pool is plaster; 33,000 gallons; equipment is below grade. It has automation in the form of remote control of pump, heater, lights, and the diverter valve to my Caretaker floor heads. Is the automation a concern in my choices? I did order the RJ-60 with vertical install last night.
Thanks to all for the advice thus far!!
Thanks to all for the advice thus far!!