Okay so the busted capacitor from the new motor has a range of 161-193. The ok capacitor from the old motor has a range of 189-227. I'm guessing that's a no-no?
There's no way this is going to work, right? (Pump motor replacement)
- Thread starter MirGSS
- Start date
Not ideal, but probably close enough.
Probably ok to use until you can get a new one.
Probably ok to use until you can get a new one.
OMG that would make my life so much easier. The pool is turning green!
What about the VAC? Does that have to match also? The ones I have are 110; I can get one here tomorrow but it's 250.
What about the VAC? Does that have to match also? The ones I have are 110; I can get one here tomorrow but it's 250.
Before starting the motor, make sure that the shaft turns freely without binding.
Ok. I think I will put the switch back together today and order that capacitor; then tackle the rest when it gets here tomorrow.
- May 3, 2007
- 17,069
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes. I have had no luck getting a response from inyopools though.
Ok, long story short, I fixed the switch, got a new capacitor, and it STILL doesn't work. What doesn't look right here? The impeller moves freely, the switch appears to work, but the motor just makes a buzzing noise.
Yes, I am about to give up and call a dang professional already.
Attachments
- May 3, 2007
- 17,069
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hmmmm... I will take a closer look. It seemed as though it was working - the button was able to move up and down without issue, but maybe I need to finagle the contacts a little?
The top contact is still sitting too high.
When the button is pressed, the contacts should be securely face to face.
When the button is pressed, the contacts should be securely face to face.
Is this going to be a big deal going forward, if it works? I can always order another switch.
