Possibly damaged motor when replacing start capacitor

Apr 9, 2024
16
Sanford, FL
Pool Size
11500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi folks

I’ve been having issue with tripping breaker on startup. Have been delinquent in fixing this. Finally had time to open up the end cap of a HST225 single stage 2.25 hp pump. The capacitor shipped in the motor when I replaced in fall was rated 110 VAC so I went ahead blindly and replaced with a new 165 VAC I had on hand from a prior motor I had replaced last fall. When I got it installed I started it up to a low hum and then a pop and smoke. After quite a bit of investigation I learned the circuit board was set up for 220v. Attached the board photos and breaker being dual 20 amp. I later learned how to test motor windings by probing on L1 and L2 terminals and reading OL meaning the windings are open and motor will likely be unable to start. At least these steps were offered by an AI tool not sure if they are accurate. No ground faults and the start windings - capacitor leads show 5 ohms. I’ll attached the circuit board and motor plate here. I’m not electrician and only mildly competent with my multimeter but can I assume the motor has failed during this power on test? Before I tested the motor winding I had overnighted 2 250VAC capacitors with a lower and a higher uF range and still plan to test as I suspect can hurt anything.
 

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pop and smoke
When you let all the smoke and sparks out of a motor you then buy a new motor, or a new pump.
What is the brand and model # of the pump.
Looks like single speed. A VSP motor, if you have a good pump, might be an option.
 
Last edited:
Either of these with a Go-Kit 2.

@1poolman1 can confirm the gokit...
 
Thanks for these options. With these variable speed units, are they reasonably easy to configure the different speeds on-unit? I have a pent air easy touch control system - I didn’t install or wire it. Just trust it to turn on/off at certain times of day given the programming I set. Is it simple enough to just run at a variable speed motor at lower speed much longer periods vs say my 8 hour runtime (spring/summer) of a single speed 2.25 hour?
 
If you have pentair automation, then look at the pentair intelliflo3. You really need to stay in the same family (automation / Pump / cell). There are other options, but they are a pain. (sorry I missed automation in your signature). With the intelliflo, you can control the pump.

You could also go with what I gave you, connect power to the current easy touch, leave it 'On'. When you turn it on, turn on the the pump. I would program the pump to run the same speed for 24 hours, low speed and forget about it. Mine is about 200W, or $20 per month.

I leave my pump on 24/7 at 1400RPM. Skims fine, makes chlorine and filters. Many of us run this way.

Really strange you have pentair automation and all Hayward equipment.
 
This sounds like the way. I have no need for anything fancy. The pentair automation just enabled me to save some money running a single speed part of the day and if necessary switch valves around for an attached spa that i don't use because the heater is busted. I don't have fancy waterfalls or anything either. I can be happy with 24/7 power on at a lower speed setting. If the motor allows me to configure it directly like this one does I'll be happy. The price is right - the century V.O. is only about $100 than i spent last summer to replace a blown out single-speed. I hope it comes pre-wired for 220v so it's easy peasy and a matching capacitor but i'll have some 250 VACs on hand if not.
 
It's dual voltage. Wire the pump directly to the breaker, don't use the easy touch.
They are both dual voltage. You won't need any caps.
Not pre-wired...i.e. there is no pigtail, you will have to wire from the easytouch breaker.