The "Just Getting Started" Really Describes Me, Help Please

[CC57]

Just a couple of weeks ago, armed with our recently purchased TF-100 test kit with magnetic stirrer and TFP recommended salt test kit, we cancelled our contact with a pool service company.

Now I’m at the point, I’ve gathered a few days of readings and I’m going to test again today.
But for now, this is what I’ve recorded and I'm requesting guidance on determining which chemicals and in what amounts do I utilize?

Date 4/14/22 4/16/22 4/20/22
CL 1 >5 >5
pH 8.2 7.5 8.2
FC 2 12 15
CC 0.5 0 0
TC 2.5 12 15
TA 110 100 100
CYA <20 60 35
CH 300 325 500
Salt 5,200 <missed> 5,800
H2O Temp 73 71

I had entered my 4/14 readings into the Pool Math app. The app recommended, if I recall (I didn’t properly record them): 22#s of calcium chloride, ~7#s of a stabilizer/conditioner, along with ? ounces of 20° baume.

I already had some baume, and added that after the 14th readings.
I picked up some chemicals and added them to the pool on the 16th (after I had taken the readings shown above).
I stopped short of adding all 22#s of the calcium chloride, thinking this seems excessive. I did enter ~12#s of it though. Along the recommended amount of stabilizer/conditioner and 20° baume.

I’m requesting guidance on what my next steps should be?

Also, I need to figure out how to calibrate my Aqualogic panel salt readings. The panel is listing salt levels at or near 2,800 ppm, where as the TFP salt test kit is showing salt level readings almost double that. Any help on how to align the two, as I would think that would adversely affect the SWG output.

I would sincerely appreciate any guidance as I learn how to do this without bothering everyone.

 

[Texas Splash]

It appears you just need a little reassurance with the testing and to get levels to stabilize. Good thing is that you are using the PoolMath APP and we can see your latest test results.

For now, focus on the following:
1 - Do one more CYA test. Your numbers bounced up & down. I know the dot viewing can be tricky, but CYA doesn't change that much, so try to find a good average number and go with that results. That way you know what your FC needs to be per the FC/CYA Levels.
2 - Keep the FC balanced to the CYA as noted in item 1. If it ever drops quickly, have some liquid chlorine available as a back-up.
3 - Keep the pH in the 7s. Anytime the pH rises over 7.8 you run the risk of scale in the pool and on the SWG cell plates.
4 - Do not add anymore calcium. As CH anywhere between 250 - 550 is good, but with local hard water that CH will rise over the summer and you'll star to struggle to prevent scale. Ideally I would keep the CH at around 300 - 400, so don't any more.
5 - TA is the last thing to worry about right now. The TA should fall slowly each time you add acid to control pH, so not a major issue right now.
6 - Salt. Be sure and confirm you are using the proper water sample size. Let's be sure of that first before assuming there is such a huge difference between the SWG reading and your own test.

 

[Texas Splash]

A couple additional comments:

For FC testing, just use the FAS-DPD (powder & drops). 10 ml water sample with one generous scoop of pwoer (should turn Barbie pink). Mix until clear and divide result in two. (i.e. 20 drops = an FC of 10).

Below is a recap of CYA testing...

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

 

[CC57]

TX Splash, thanks for the reply and info/guidance.
I ran through the test again on 4/22. Here's where I stand:

Date 4/14/22---4/16/22---4/20/22---4/22/22
CL 1 ------ >5 -------- >5 -------- >5
pH 8.2 ----- 7.5 -------- 8.2 -------- 8.2
FC 2 ------- 12 -------- 15 -------- 14.5
CC 0.5 ------ 0 -------- 0 --------- 0
TC 2.5 ------ 12 ------- 15 --------- 14.5
TA 110 ----- 100 ------ 100 --------- 110
CYA <20 ------ 60 ------- 35 --------- 60
CH 300 ----- 325 ------- 500 ------- 375
Salt 5,200---<missed>--- 5,800 ----- 4,800

First off, I didn't get a chance to read your replies until after I ran another set of readings. I'll use the methods you listed above for my next test. Thank you for the recap instructions.

With reference to the readings above:
We seem have plenty, if not too much CL. The color is more of an orange than a yellow.
With that, along with the high FC reading, and in reviewing the FC/CYA chart for SWG pools, am I correct in thinking I should lower the current Pool Chlorinator percentage (currently set at 95%)? Maybe drop it down to about 45%?

On the pH, per the app, I'm going to add 3 cups 20° baume

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely lower the pH to prevent scale. Anytime the pH exceeds 7.8, you can bring it down a bit. As for the FC, it's very possible you may need to lower the SWG output or reduce pump run time. Either one will reduce the amount of FC produced. But do the FC test (FAS-DPD) as noted above tomorrow as opposed to trying to guess with the OTO color shading. If you confirm an elevated FC, it will fall soon. Once we start to see consistent TX summer heat, your CYA will need to be increased slightly to at least 70, but for now is okay. Salt seems a bit elevated, but not critical right now. Something to watch later. FC and pH are your priorities right now. Everything else looks pretty good.

 

[CC57]

I went ahead and lowered the pool chlorinator setting from where it was set (95%) down to 60%. I'll let the pool run its cycle this AM, and then gather my readings.

Will be curious if I see any changes this quickly. May take another pump run cycle or two, plus just time for the elements to influence the readings.

Will report back with my reading later today.

Thanks for all the help Splash.

 

[CC57]

Didn't get a chance to test yesterday, storms came through and dropped ~2-3/4" of rain in about 4 hours. Not complaining, we needed it.

Anyway, I don't know if it's because of the rain diluting the water, or the fact I've dropped the pool chlorinator setting to 60%, but FC is down to 11 (from 14.5 4 days ago)

We're now at:

CL >5 (no real change from 4/22 readings)-------- >5
pH 8 (down from 8.2)
FC 11 (down from 14.5)
CC 0 (no change)
TA 99 (down from 110)
CYA ~57.5 (slightly down from 60)
CH 350 (down from 375)
Salt 4,000 (down from 5,200)

Any suggestions?

Should I:
(1) lower the pool chlorinator setting? If yes, any suggestions?
or
(2) add some stabilizer, say 2#s?

Both?

Or keep working on lowering the pH until it's closer to the targeted 7 to 7.2, than proceed from there?

(Side note: I have to look into calibrating the system so I get more accurate salt readings. Today's Salt test: 4,000ppm. The system shows it at 2,600. Would imagine that discrepancy could/would affect the CL generation, correct?

 

[Texas Splash]

Today:
- Lower pH to about 7.6
- You can lower the SWG output by 10% if you like. Watch the FC for the next couple days to ensure it doesn't' fall too low. Remember to always go back to the FC/CYA Levels.
- You can add 10 ppm worth of stabilizer if you like

From there's I'd just monitor for a few days. Nice work.

 

[CC57]

Thanks Splash.

Don't know about "nice work". Just tasks than need addressing.

If you don't mind, I'll keep posting, at least a few more times, here until I feel like I'm getting ahead of the game.

Once again, appreciate all your guidance.

(Hope y'all got some of that rain that passed through yesterday)

 

[Texas Splash]

If you don't mind, I'll keep posting, at least a few more times, here until I feel like I'm getting ahead of the game.

Post back as much as you like. That's what the forum is all about.

 

[MITBeta]

CL >5 (no real change from 4/22 readings)-------- >5

You don't have to do this test. Just use the FAS-DPD (powder and drops) test for FC.

CYA ~57.5 (slightly down from 60)

Your CYA is 60. The scale is not linear and there's no point or accuracy in trying to interpolate between the ticks for each 10. Just round up.

 

[CC57]

MIT, with regards to CL testing, though I'm a rookie at this, I was of the opinion the CL test wasn't necessary. Thanks for confirming my suspicion on that.

And thanks for the point of clarification on the CYA testing.

 

[CC57]

As of 4/28 (last reading on 4/26):

pH 7.5 (down from 8)
FC 13.5 (up from 11)
CC 0 (no change)
TA 80 (down from 99)
CYA 50 (slightly down from 60)
CH 350 (no change from last reading)

Plus, since taking the readings on the 26th I lowered the pool chlorinator setting to 50%.

I feel the pH is finally getting down to a preferred level. That would seem to be a good thing.

Yet I'm surprised the FC has risen. And is still at the higher than preferred level.
What I'm wondering is, can I use the CYA that is testing at a lower than preferred level, can I use that to my advantage? Would it not help in bringing the FC level down?

Please also note, ran through a test of our salt cell with the supplier's tech support. Found the salt cell to be defective. Fortunately, it's in warranty, so a replacement unit is on its way. I'm hoping that will help us get the salt readings more in line with the Aqua Logic panel's readings.

All comments, suggestions, critiques welcomed.

 

[MITBeta]

The FC level will fall on its own if you stop or reduce the amount of chlorine you're adding.

By now you should have enough information to figure out how what level / run time combo you need on your salt cell to hold FC fairly constant. Enter the cell type, run time, and % setting into the PoolMath app to figure out how much chlorine you are generating. Then subtract the average day to day change in chlorine level and you'll know how much the pool is consuming. Then use PoolMath again to figure out how much runtime and % you need to make up for that consumption. You'll need to increase this level over the course of the summer season.

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking about lower than preferred CYA levels relative to your FC level.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You only need to run FC and PH daily
TA only need to be run once a week
CH and CYA once a month.
Unless you added something and want to recheck.
You are doing great, keep it up!

 

[bmoreswim]

As of 4/28 (last reading on 4/26):

pH 7.5 (down from 8)
FC 13.5 (up from 11)
CC 0 (no change)
TA 80 (down from 99)
CYA 50 (slightly down from 60)
CH 350 (no change from last reading)

Plus, since taking the readings on the 26th I lowered the pool chlorinator setting to 50%.

I feel the pH is finally getting down to a preferred level. That would seem to be a good thing.

Yet I'm surprised the FC has risen. And is still at the higher than preferred level.
What I'm wondering is, can I use the CYA that is testing at a lower than preferred level, can I use that to my advantage? Would it not help in bringing the FC level down?

Please also note, ran through a test of our salt cell with the supplier's tech support. Found the salt cell to be defective. Fortunately, it's in warranty, so a replacement unit is on its way. I'm hoping that will help us get the salt readings more in line with the Aqua Logic panel's readings.

All comments, suggestions, critiques welcomed.

On your salt cell, I'm glad you got that tested since you were comfortable with your salt testing practice. For future reference, you will also see this as the salt cell comes to the end of it's lifespan. I believe it's the amps on the diagnostic menu will slowly begin to drop, eventually to a point where the CL production will be reduced, also while causing you to overload the pool on salt. For you, that might be in the 5+ year range. So it's always good to take the Taylor salt test a few times per season, especially so as the cell ages to look for that discrepancy (or a defective cell).

 

[CC57]

The FC level will fall on its own if you stop or reduce the amount of chlorine you're adding.

By now you should have enough information to figure out how what level / run time combo you need on your salt cell to hold FC fairly constant. Enter the cell type, run time, and % setting into the PoolMath app to figure out how much chlorine you are generating. Then subtract the average day to day change in chlorine level and you'll know how much the pool is consuming. Then use PoolMath again to figure out how much runtime and % you need to make up for that consumption. You'll need to increase this level over the course of the summer season.

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking about lower than preferred CYA levels relative to your FC level.

Apologies for not replying earlier. Have been away from the house.

5/4 readings were pH @ 7.8, FC @ 13

Based on the PoolMath app, I've reduced my pump run time from 7-1/2 hours to 6 and reduced the SWG to 35%.
We'll see how that works out.

On my query regarding CYA level relative to FC level, my understanding, at this point, is the CYA aides in maintaining a preferred FC level; therefore, my logic(?) was by letting the CYA levels decrease, the FC would as well.
Am I incorrect in my understanding of the relationship between CYA and FC? Or would what I thought might work, actually work?

Thanks again

 

[CC57]

You only need to run FC and PH daily
TA only need to be run once a week
CH and CYA once a month.
Unless you added something and want to recheck.
You are doing great, keep it up!

Good to learn this now. I appreciate it.

Where were you with this about a week or two ago?

 

[CC57]

On your salt cell, I'm glad you got that tested since you were comfortable with your salt testing practice. For future reference, you will also see this as the salt cell comes to the end of it's lifespan. I believe it's the amps on the diagnostic menu will slowly begin to drop, eventually to a point where the CL production will be reduced, also while causing you to overload the pool on salt. For you, that might be in the 5+ year range. So it's always good to take the Taylor salt test a few times per season, especially so as the cell ages to look for that discrepancy (or a defective cell).

I believe you're correct in that the Amp level is the indicator.

I'm going to confirm that with the cell vendor, and probably take and record a couple of readings once the new one arrives. Use that as a baseline and see what it shows overtime.
p
Thans again everyone for the input, assistance, sharing the knowledge.

 

[Texas Splash]

To try and answer your question, since an SWG is producing chlorine gas in smaller/scheduled amount per cycle, the elevated CYA helps to preserve the FC throughout the day.