The conversion begins-SWCG

Air means a suction side leak. So look at areas between your pump and skimmer. Most likely is the pump basket lid gasket.
 
JD,

When you get ready to start your SWG use Pool Math to estimate the settings. Set up for SWG and use "effects of adding" and select SWG. You will be able to vary run-time and % power for a given number of ppm FC added. You'll want to have it add the amount you were adding using liquid chlorine. 1.8 ppm is typical for this time of year but can vary depending on your specific pool use and other variables. Trick is to run at the lowest % power for your run time and still have run-time adjustment to fine tune so you maintain FC in the target range. Since you have a VS pump you can slow way down 'till you just trip the flow switch to optimize power use. Your model is not included in the Circupool models so just pick one that has the same capacity as yours such as the Aqua Rite T-15. When I do this for your pool size I get 35% for 10.5 hr yields 1.7 ppm. I've found Pool Math very accurate to calculate the initial settings.

I Hope this helps.

Chris
 
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Hi Gary-I do believe the bubbles were from swcg. I had system at 75%. When I turn swcg off, the bubbles go away after some time.

I do still have some bubbles in pump basket lid, they start small like champagne bubbles and then get bigger after several hours.

I have replacement gaskets in the mail and will change them out.
 
I emailed Circupool and got a reply today.

Greetings Mark,

Hooking a salt system up to the pump timer is standard for most models. It gives you the redundancy of both the timer and the salt system’s flow switch to ensure that pump and salt system work in tandem together.

However for many people this is not possible. For example, there are probably hundreds of thousands of pool owners out there with a programmable variable speed pump and no way to directly wire the salt system to the programmable pump’s internal on/off relays. In such cases then, the standard thing to do is let the salt system’s flow switch activate/deactivate the salt system whenever the programmable pump starts/stops.

For the easiest installation, the CORE model can just plug in to an outlet and let its flow switch activate/deactivate the system - similar to the above scenario. To go above and beyond, you can also wire it to a timer if desired. The CORE uses a digital switch-mode power supply, so it can automatically convert between 110v or 220v either way you do it. I’ve attached the manual for you also, which shows those different scenarios of A) simply plugging the unit into an outlet, B) plugging the unit into an outlet which is powered by a timer, or C) removing its plug and hardwiring it directly to a timer.

Please let us know what other questions you might have or feel free to call for faster support.

CircuPool Support
888-206-9938
www.circupool.com/help
 

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Swcg running at 25% running 14 hrs was not able to generate enough chlorine to offset loss during the day plus the 0.5ppm lost overnight.

My plan is to do 50% at 12 hrs and see where that gets me.

CYA is at 70ppm. I could bump up to 80ppm to try to reduce sun burnoff.
 
JD,

I had mine running at 30% since install but recently had to bump it up to 40%, I attribute this to rainy season (I'm removing as much as 2" per week plus rain washes dust and pollen off the total enclosure) and average pool temp runs a couple degrees higher (around 91 deg almost every day now). I'll probably bump up the CYA also, currently 60 ppm.

Chris
 
I hate to hijack but this thread is real close to my problem and may help the OP. I bought the core 55 last month and I have a 20-K gallon pool. I have it mounted vertically and it seems to be working fine. I see the hydrogen bubbles increase as the % selector increases. I have it wired to the pump timer and it is controlled thru it's own timer off of that. I can set so many hours of on time once the pump starts in the morning. With the % of chlorine being made and the extra timer I thought I would be able to control the chlorine level but it seems I have large swings. I have the SWG mounted directly off of the pump. The one other variable I have is my solar panel. If I heat the pool with the solar panel, It slows the water flow by 1/3rd based off the back pressure. Could the slowing of water reduce the chlorine being made? seems like when the solar is on is when my chlorine drops.
 
Yep there is sufficient flow. I can see the flow switch all the way over, hydrogen bubbles are being made and the unit is still on. At 75% power I get too much chlorine and at 50% its way low. I use a
Taylor Technologies K-2005-SALT Test Kit Complete High I feel i'm measuring
accurately. I will go at 75% for now and limit the time on. Next week I turn off the solar panel as it maintains 85°. I will then tune it in better to see if the solar panel is to blame.
 
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