The conversion begins-SWCG

jdlangley1

0
Gold Supporter
Jan 7, 2019
236
Spring, Tx
Pool Size
14344
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Beginning the conversion to SWCG.

Pool is roughly 14,500 gallons when including the length and width of the sun deck. Take out the sun deck and it’s only 11,500 gallons.

K-1766 kit comes in tomorrow. To save time, planned on adding only 6 bags today which will be lower than the swcg demands but will test tomorrow to see how much more to add. Will not be turning swcg on yet.

Open for advice during conversion.
 

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Plan to install in place of chlorinator. Instructions say I need a minimum of 6 inches of straight pipe before unit, which I do. Do you think I will have any issues with check valve right before the unit? I can remove check valve guts, if needed.
 
There is rarely a need for a check valve with a SWCG. I assume it was there for the chlorinater.

I would remove the guts from the check valve as that reduces over all back pressure and gives you more straight pipe before the flow switch.
 
I would not add any salt until you know for sure how much you already have in your pool. This advice was given to me on this forum when I asked some questions before starting my own SWG conversion. I got the Taylor K-1766, measured my salt level and was shocked to see that I already had a reading of 3400 ppm! Probably due to several sources, but mainly from adding LC for a few years. If I had assumed I had no salt, and added the recommended amount of salt (900 Lbs for my 38000 Gal pool) then my salt level would have been through the roof causing me to have to do a major drain.
 
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I ended up going with Circupool Core 35.

Discount Salt Pools was doing a $1 upgrade.
 

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I ended up going with Circupool Core 35.

Discount Salt Pools was doing a $1 upgrade.

Nice .........
If I decide to jump from my Stenner system (due to nothing more than getting tired of lugging bleach bottles around) , I am considering the Circupool Core 55 , with $1. upgrade from 35 .
The directions say it can just be plugged into a 110 outlet , and it will use the float switch to turn the SWG on and off (per Circupools directions, it states that is can just be plugged into a live 110 outlet !) .
Personally , I would probably at the very least , use a plug in digital timer timed to coincide with the pumps schedule if going the plug in route .A digital timer should keep time inline with a vs pump timer if the power goes out .

Perhaps you can control this Core model with your VSP Inteliflo . How did you do the wiring ?
 
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I have a Gfci outlet at my easytouch panel.

Going to just plug into it. I agree with the timer. I have a digital timer i used for Christmas lights that I may try to use.
 
Not a good idea. Use a timer (as you say you 'might') -- read Explosion near the SWG

Yes, agreed Marty, was just stating the even though Circupool says it can be plugged it directly to a GFCI outlet , I personally dont think its a good idea either (btw, I dont even have a SWG, was just considering this model if I was to make the switch from my Stenner system-lol) . Was just curious to see how some of these were being installed and wired as they are brand new to the market.

A quote directly from Circupool's Core directions .......... plus a picture in the direction for wiring .

"The CORE Series is shipped from the factory with a power cord that ends in a standard 120VAC plug, to allow the easiest installation. When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, you may wish to wire the Control Module directly to your power source. This will allow the pump to determine when the Cell is energized or dormant by activation of the Flow Switch."

105670


Since these are brand new to the market and Circupool states that they can be plugged in directly to a power source ........was just wondering how many new owners will be doing it like this . My guess is a LOT !
Personally , like I said - I would at the very least plug it into a digital timer to coincide with the pumps run time.
 
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I am sure they believe their design cannot fail or build up hydrogen. I would not want to bet on that.

@circupool Monitors the forum. Hopefully they will review this thread and respond.
 
Is this the color I’m looking for?

If so, my salt is at 1200ppm
 

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Is this the color I’m looking for?

If so, my salt is at 1200ppm
Salt Water Test Instructions PROCEDURE: CAREFULLY READ AND FOLLOW PRECAUTIONS ON REAGENT LABELS. KEEP REAGENTS AWAY FROM CHILDREN. For 1 drop = 200 ppm Sodium Chloride. 1. Rinse and fill the plain graduated cylinder to 10 mL mark with water to be tested. 2. Add 1 drop R-0630 Chromate Indicator. Swirl to mix. Sample should turn yellow. 3. Add R-0718 Silver Nitrate Reagent dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop, until color changes from yellow to a milky salmon (brick) red. Always hold bottle in vertical position. NOTE: Do not add enough R-0718 Silver Nitrate Reagent to give a brown color. First change from yellow to a milky salmon (brick) red is the endpoint. 4. Multiply drops of R-0718 Silver Nitrate Reagent by 200. Record as parts per million (ppm) salt as sodium chloride (salt water).
 
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Now battling air bubbles coming from return!

Wondering if I didn’t tighten swcg enough or o ring is out of place. Or maybe when I removed guts out of check valve, I didn’t seat check valve properly.
 

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