The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

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Re: The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

Skimmer.jpg
Thanks for all the input. 2 more questions. What is the purpose of the other hole in the bottom of the skimmer? It has threads so do I need to plug it for the winter? Also, if I put empty jugs in the skimmer for the winter do I need to weigh them down so they will not float or will the lid and safety cover keep it down in the water that could potentially get in there? Thanks
 
Re: The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

Thanks for all the input. 2 more questions. What is the purpose of the other hole in the bottom of the skimmer? It has threads so do I need to plug it for the winter? Also, if I put empty jugs in the skimmer for the winter do I need to weigh them down so they will not float or will the lid and safety cover keep it down in the water that could potentially get in there? Thanks
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The second hole is designed for a skimmer/main drain combination (from what I know). Mine are also sealed on both skimmers. If you close with a Gizmo, then no need for empty jugs. If you use a black rubber plug, you can use foam for ice expansion. Jugs should be filled with at least 50% antifreeze and this will help from floating. If the water levels becomes high enough, yes the jug will try to lift the safety cover.
 
Re: The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

How do you blow out the main drain? My skimmer has two holes where the left is to the main drain and the right is the skimmer line. I lower my water below the returns and still get water that I can't get rid of on the left (main drain) hole. I live in Connecticut so it does not get as cold as some places.
 
Re: The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

I have a float valve, but I rarely use it. Maybe I should use it all the time? Anyway, to be clear, I should blow in air with a wet/dry vac into the main drain skimmer hole (same way to blow out the lines) then quickly plug it with the rubber plug to create the air lock? Thank you again.
 
Re: The concept of closing an inground swimming pool

illtiger1 said:
I have a float valve, but I rarely use it. Maybe I should use it all the time? Anyway, to be clear, I should blow in air with a wet/dry vac into the main drain skimmer hole (same way to blow out the lines) then quickly plug it with the rubber plug to create the air lock? Thank you again.
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Yes, assuming the shop vac is powerful enough. The main drain bubbles will cause a whirlpool at the surface. If you see this, then 60 seconds is enough. If you get tiny bubbles from the bottom, this is probably not enough.
 
I have just updated post # 1 with some additional pictures and links that will help out with a pool closing. The Cyclone, or any other pool blower can be substituted, but this shows where one can hook up a blower at the equipment pad, which is the best place to work from. In addition, there are more pictures of an NPT fitting, where the fitting goes, etc. Questions, please write back.
 

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Mkleisch said:
Is there a risk in keeping the returns under the water level? If the pool freezes, I’m in chicgao, will the ice damage the return fittings?
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No, I only keep the water level about 1" below the skimmer. It is easier to clear the lines this way with certain blowers. Just make sure that the skimmers have the proper Gizzmo's and you may want to add some foam rope as well. The pool should not freeze more than 1" to 2" in most parts of the country, but remember I am in NJ, so my experience is quite different than real cold regions. I have no idea how deep the water freezing point will be in your area. Pools are under the ground and insulated for the most part.

Also, depending on your cover, the pool will fill up with water. I have a solid tarp and I allow my pool to fill up through the winter and this also protects other items underneath the cover.
 
I am planning on installing some "elbows" into the returns that then stick above the water. I believe I blow everything out and then cap those...
 
I think they used pipe tape previously. I was thinking about doing pipe dope, but figured I should stick with tape. Or take the water down past the return levels (only another few inches). One year the pool was lowered I think 2 inches below the skimmer box only for us to get 4 inches of rain one weekend.
 
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Dunnma:

I really believe this all comes down to which blower you are using. Personally, I see no reason to drain below the returns as the Cyclone produces enough volume to accomplish the task. In addition, returns under water will show air bubbles if not sealed properly. My skimmers are pretty much dry and when I thread them in, a ton of Teflon tape goes on to make sure that the fit is real tight. I also take my sweet time threading the Gizzmo's in not to damage them.
 
I bought a cyclone. Unless it came with a hose I need to figure out one that works with it to connect to my system. You have given a log of options however.
 
dunnma said:
I bought a cyclone. Unless it came with a hose I need to figure out one that works with it to connect to my system. You have given a log of options however.
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The hose is 1.5" and is flexible enough to place without a modified cover or you can work from the skimmer/unions, etc. Go to post # 1 in this thread and read everything including all the links. You will find pictures, etc. No need to go through all this trouble. Use goggles to see what you are doing under water with the black expandable plugs.
 
Did the close today. Ended up going with a 90 elbow from the return into a 12" pipe with a threaded end on it. I installed one for each return and the blew everything out. Water came out of both pipes. I have the ability to turn one off so I turned that one off until all I was getting out of the pipe was water drops. I then turned them both on and capped the first one. Once I was done with that I went and turned off the other return and opened the main drain. I capped return #2 while the main drain did its thing. Air locked the main drain and turned the cyclone off. Switched the MPV to recirculate and turned on the cyclone on one skimmer box. Went to the one with water coming out and turned on the shop vac and drained it dry (except for the occasional flying drop of water). Put the shop vac in the other skimmer and switched things at the pad. While #1 was draining I put a super gizmo with thread tape into the other skimmer. Repeated for #1 and I think the system is done.

I removed the drain plug from the sand filter and I left the MPV in Closed, but now I am thinking there might be a Winter setting...

My only question right now is that in my pump basket there is about 2 inches of water. What should I do about this? Leave it or shop vac it?
 
I removed the drain plug from the sand filter and I left the MPV in Closed, but now I am thinking there might be a Winter setting...
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My only question right now is that in my pump basket there is about 2 inches of water. What should I do about this? Leave it or shop vac it?
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Place the MPV between 2 settings, not in the closed position. Vacuum the remaining water out of the pump basket and you can also remove the drain screws as well. I leave mine in, but which ever you are comfortable with is best.

Also, you cleared the lines from the returns and not the skimmer? First time I have seen this one, unless not understanding. If so, then you went from returns to filter and back down through pump, etc. Making an adapter from the skimmer port would be best, unless you do not have a threaded port. Please advise.
 
Ok...I will have to change the MPV setting tomorrow and will also dig out the shop vac again to remove that water.

I cleared everything from the "junction" that was in my system. You can see it in this old pic from below between the pump basket and the skimmer/main lines. I removed the plug and went to Home Depot to buy one that would screw into this that would also take the vacuum hose attachment screwed into it.

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