TF-Pro Kit: How to measure chlorine daily with comparator block

May 4, 2024
10
Queen Creek, AZ
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’m on day 2 of using the TFP method, and am seeking help for keeping my pool’s chlorine level where it should be. What I’m learning seems contradictory.

Concerns:
The TFP-recommended TF-pro kit comes with a Taylor 9781 comparator block that measures chlorine levels up to 5ppm. However, according to the app, an ideal CYA level is 45 which means the chlorine range should be 4-8ppm with a target of 6ppm.

The TF-pro kit’s included instruction card say to test chlorine daily using the comparator block. This is seemingly impossible given the block doesn’t test chlorine that high. In practice, my CYA is higher at 60(ish?) so that makes following that instruction card even less feasible.

My Questions
How often do you measure chlorine and what testing method do you use? Why does the testing kit include instructions and materials for daily chlorine below TFP’s target levels? Ultimately, am I misinterpreting the TFP method as it relates to chlorine?

Thanks!

Pool details: 15,000 gallons, plaster finish, Phoenix area, using liquid chlorine only for the last 2 days.
 
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Welcome to the forum!
The OTO comparator block is not really designed to measure FC accurately. It is more of a yes/no indicator of TC in the water.
I suggest while learning your pool water chemistry characteristics, you test FC using FAS-DPD and pH daily. Enter that data into Poolmath and store the data. Test TA weekly. CH and CYA monthly.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
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I’ve never been able to use the comparator block due in part to my OCD! Solely use the FAS-DPD now every two days since I know my pools chemical behavior. Get a magnetic stirrer from


I have the TFP Pro test kit and never have to take out the magnetic stirrer from the case to test which saves me even more time testing FC, CC, TA & CH.

For PH, I use a digital PH reader. I keep three small Tupperware containers with the 4.0/6.86/9.18 recalibration powder & distilled water that I use monthly to ensure the PH reading is accurate.


Those two items will make accurately testing the pool daily a 5 minute or less process.
 
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I've never worked out the exact number of tests, but the FAS/DPD reagents are enough for like 100 tests or so - for $25 - I figure thats a quarter/day for 100% peace of mind on my FC levels.
I don't check CC every day, or PH (or TA/CH/CYA or Salt for that matter). I typically do a full set once a week.

BTW - when people think the strips are cheap and convenient, I usually point out that the 'good' strips are like $15 for 50...which is a nickel more per test...and 90% of what it tests isn't really going to change day-to-day anyway (and if it did, you'd never be able to tell from the strip)
 
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I have a TF Pro Salt and love everything about it except 2 things:

1) The 9781 Comparator: Yellow side is unnecessary and the pH side's scale is too course so doesn't provide good resolution where you need it.
2) The laminated instruction card could also be greatly improved. Tossing in the additional paper (non-laminated) instructions was also a fail.

I've solved both of these things by 1) using a Taylor 9056 Comparator for pH measurements and 2) creating my own, color coded, laminated instruction card.
 
It wasn’t until I found out that the TF kits are not made by the trouble free pool people that I understood that I can completely ignore the chlorine comparative block. The TF kits are great, but they are not identical to what trouble free pools would make if we were creating the test kit. Almost, but not quite.
 
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I have a TF Pro Salt and love everything about it except 2 things:

1) The 9781 Comparator: Yellow side is unnecessary and the pH side's scale is too course so doesn't provide good resolution where you need it.
2) The laminated instruction card could also be greatly improved. Tossing in the additional paper (non-laminated) instructions was also a fail.

I've solved both of these things by 1) using a Taylor 9056 Comparator for pH measurements and 2) creating my own, color coded, laminated instruction card.
I agree strongly about the 9781/TFtestkits knockoff comparator—it’s driving me crazy! Might follow your lead and get a 9056 as well.

Perhaps you can share your fancy instruction card artwork with @Sarah and Nate and they can add it to the kit as an upgrade. 😉
 
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I agree strongly about the 9781/TFtestkits knockoff comparator—it’s driving me crazy! Might follow your lead and get a 9056 as well.

Perhaps you can share your fancy instruction card artwork with @Sarah and Nate and they can add it to the kit as an upgrade. 😉
Here’s a picture of my setup. The card only includes the stuff I wanted it to.
1718249199316.jpeg
 

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Here’s a picture of my setup. The card only includes the stuff I wanted it to.
View attachment 584699

Any chance you'd be willing to make a PDF file of that colorful card available for download so those so inclined can print it off on their own color printer?
 
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Hopefully these links work. One is the pdf format of the exact card I’m using. I imagine some will want to tweak it to suit their needs so I’ve included a link to the editable PowerPoint.

PDF

PowerPoint
 
The OTO comparator block is not really designed to measure FC accurately. It is more of a yes/no indicator of TC in the water.
What Marty says is correct.

The OTO test and its inclusion in the TF kits predates salt water generators entirely, so it makes more sense when you consider only traditionally chlorinated pools. The idea was that by using the OTO test, you get a quick QUALITATIVE test of whether or not your pool is properly chlorinated, versus the FAS-DPD which is a quantitative test. When your pool water is not experiencing any acute issues, you can save a considerable amount of FAS-DPD reagents by using the OTO test instead. Since those are the most expensive and arguably the most important in the kit, I think the OTO test makes a lot of sense for a certain pool owner. It doesn't make as much sense for saltwater pool owners, though.

I agree strongly about the 9781/TFtestkits knockoff comparator—it’s driving me crazy! Might follow your lead and get a 9056 as well.

Perhaps you can share your fancy instruction card artwork with @Sarah and Nate and they can add it to the kit as an upgrade. 😉

The 9056 is not intended for use with R-0014 phenol red indicator like the 9781 and TFtestkits comparator blocks. It's intended for use with R-0004 phenol red indicator, which is similar but a different concentration and thus produces different color changes.
We're in the process of revising the instruction card! Stay tuned!

It wasn’t until I found out that the TF kits are not made by the trouble free pool people that I understood that I can completely ignore the chlorine comparative block. The TF kits are great, but they are not identical to what trouble free pools would make if we were creating the test kit. Almost, but not quite.
Well, TFtestkits and TFP are different businesses. The TF kits were designed explicitly with the TFP community in mind, although it's been 15 plus years since the TF-100 was introduced!
 
Yup I got that part! When I was looking at what to buy the other night I became distracted by a $9 digital pH meter on Amazon. My expectations are not high but we'll see how that goes before probably throwing it in the trash and ordering the 9056/R0004 anyway.
 
Those cheap pH meters are useless. In order to use a digital meter you have to get one that is calibratable. I would expect the cheapest decent calibratable meter would be around $45.
I had great luck with this one.
 
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Yup I got that part! When I was looking at what to buy the other night I became distracted by a $9 digital pH meter on Amazon. My expectations are not high but we'll see how that goes before probably throwing it in the trash and ordering the 9056/R0004 anyway.
I bought one of these as it came recommended by a few members here. It comes with 3 different buffer solutions for calibration. I also bought some 8.2 pH buffer solution to spot check the accuracy and it has been dead (to 2 decimal places) on for over 1 month without needing recalibration.
 
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I've solved both of these things by 1) using a Taylor 9056 Comparator for pH measurements and 2) creating my own, color coded, laminated instruction card.
I just got the 9056 comparator in the mail today along with the R-0004 indicator reagent and used it for the first time. My first impression is that it is night and day better than the one that comes with the TF Pro kit. I was able to match the colors almost instantly. The .2 pH increment labels are more helpful, too.

Hopefully subsequent tests will be as easy. Thanks for your suggestions!
 
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