TF-100 Test Kit

[6XSBChamps]

In your climate, that CYA is pretty low. You must be adding/generating a bunch of FC per day to get to 16 ppm as you are mostly likely consuming well over 5 ppm FC per day.

Raise your CYA to 70 ppm, if the pool is clear and no need to follow the SLAM Process. Target a FC of 7 ppm.

Thanks. The pool is clear. Do you mean no need to SLAM or I should SLAM?

 

[mknauss]

I wanted to be sure you DID NOT need to SLAM. If not, raise the CYA. Go up in steps. Add 20 ppm worth. Once dissolved, test a day later. Then add enough to get to 70 ppm.

 

[setsailsoon]

Don't forget to round up your CYA when you run the test. Do the test with outside with your back to the sun and avoid staring at the tube bottom... it will make you imagine dot. If you're having problems setting you swg for the right chlorine use Pool Math under "effects of adding". Select swg, set pool volume, use magnifier to select your model. Then see what combination of runtime and % power settings get you to about 3-4 ppm FC added per day. I would run my pump long enough to skim adequately and run aesthetics like the spillway and set the % power to make enough FC. Let FC cycle on the high side of the target range for your CYA level. Don't try to keep it constant or it will drive you nuts.

I hope this helps.

Chris

 

[6XSBChamps]

In your climate, that CYA is pretty low. You must be adding/generating a bunch of FC per day to get to 16 ppm as you are mostly likely consuming well over 5 ppm FC per day.

Raise your CYA to 70 ppm, if the pool is clear and no need to follow the SLAM Process. Target a FC of 7 ppm.

Thanks!

 

[6XSBChamps]

The pool is clear. So you say no need to follow SLAM process ?

Sorry, I see you already responded. Thanks!

 

[6XSBChamps]

Don't forget to round up your CYA when you run the test. Do the test with outside with your back to the sun and avoid staring at the tube bottom... it will make you imagine dot. If you're having problems setting you swg for the right chlorine use Pool Math under "effects of adding". Select swg, set pool volume, use magnifier to select your model. Then see what combination of runtime and % power settings get you to about 3-4 ppm FC added per day. I would run my pump long enough to skim adequately and run aesthetics like the spillway and set the % power to make enough FC. Let FC cycle on the high side of the target range for your CYA level. Don't try to keep it constant or it will drive you nuts.

I hope this helps.

Chris

This is very helpful. I've had the pool since July and the builder set the pump to run 13 hours/day and SWG at 100%. I'm not an expert but I would imagine that's the cause of high chlorine.

 

[6XSBChamps]

Don't forget to round up your CYA when you run the test. Do the test with outside with your back to the sun and avoid staring at the tube bottom... it will make you imagine dot. If you're having problems setting you swg for the right chlorine use Pool Math under "effects of adding". Select swg, set pool volume, use magnifier to select your model. Then see what combination of runtime and % power settings get you to about 3-4 ppm FC added per day. I would run my pump long enough to skim adequately and run aesthetics like the spillway and set the % power to make enough FC. Let FC cycle on the high side of the target range for your CYA level. Don't try to keep it constant or it will drive you nuts.

I hope this helps.

Chris

in the Pool Math app, I know I have a Jandy Aquapure system but don't know if it's 700 or 1400. Is there an easy way to find that out?

 

[mknauss]

in the Pool Math app, I know I have a Jandy Aquapure system but don't know if it's 700 or 1400. Is there an easy way to find that out?

@PoolGate Do you know how to determine this?

 

[PoolGate]

Hmm... Programmatically, I am not sure if there is a way. You can physically inspect the unit there should be a model # on it. 700 or 1400. And you can look at the cell itself. The 700 has 1/2 as many plates. The 1400 has 13 plates (6 on each side of the center plate) and I think the 700 has 7 (3 on each side of the center plate).

 

[6XSBChamps]

pic if it helps. I'll take a close look when I get home

 

[mknauss]

Regardless, you want to remove the mineral cartridge. Hopefully you still have the cap for that spot.

 

[PoolGate]

View attachment 367518
pic if it helps. I'll take a close look when I get home

That label on the side is where the model will be.

 

[setsailsoon]

I hope you have the 1400. The 700 is woefully undersized. You'll only add 4.2 ppm with 24 hour operation at 100%. This would barely keep up on many pools this time of year.

Fingers crossed.

Chris

 

[6XSBChamps]

I hope you have the 1400. The 700 is woefully undersized. You'll only add 4.2 ppm with 24 hour operation at 100%. This would barely keep up on many pools this time of year.

Fingers crossed.

Chris

I do! It's the 1400.

 

[6XSBChamps]

Is this in reference to Calcium Hardness? I am at 525 which I was worried would be way too high

 

[mknauss]

Is this in reference to Calcium Hardness?

Yes. Your CH is elevated, but not too high. You should monitor CSI. It is calculated by Poolmath.

 

[6XSBChamps]

Latest readings as of last night. My questions are.... CYA 20 an issue? Is it normal for Ph to always be a battle to keep it low? I add acid and it lowers it for a day and 3 days later it's over 8 so I add acid about every 5 days. If that ok then I don't mind. Also, I know my chlorine is high as I can smell it. The pool is very clear an never issue with that (knock on wood)
FC 10
CC 0
CH 500
CYA 20
Ph 8

 

[mknauss]

Your CYA should be raised to at least 50 ppm and preferably 70 ppm for your climate. Swimmer comfort and SWCG longevity is the reward.

Smelling chlorine is not a good thing. That is CC. It may be because of the high level of active chlorine you have with the low CYA.