TF 100 Test kit arrived

Ok, I’ve done one bleach addition, so I’ll space the other two evenly, now until bedtime.

Is my thinking below accurate? Please correct anything below that needs it.
Eventually I will test & get an FC of 15 (15 is my Target Shock)
When my FC tests 15 once/the first time
My CC should be zero, or 0.5 is acceptable
(until the FC level remains the same overnight and CC is 0.5 or lower, I must continue shocking)

Then I will be able to start a nightly (rather than several times a night) testing of pH, FC & CC.

My FC will gradually lower, but so long as FC is not below the range (from Cl/CYA chart), I just enter my “Now” FC in the calc & use the high FC# from the chart as the “Target FC” & add bleach accordingly.

Normal levels for chlorine are generally in the 2-10ppm recommended range.
I don’t know how much chlorine I need unless I know my CYA.
So I measure my CYA & find it on the Chlorine / CYA Chart & note my corresponding “Target FC” on the chart.
Using that Target FC from the chart, I enter that in the pool calculator as my Target & the Now is of course the FC from the current test. The amount of bleach to add will be calculated.

I don’t need to deal with “shock Levels” on the calc unless shocking is indicated (from that link in Pool School: algae or the (CC) level is above 0.5, or the free chlorine (FC) level is zero, or when the FC level falls significantly-often does after a major storm or swim party. This is done even if FC doesn't get all the way to zero, just to be sure everything is all right. If you are maintaining proper FC levels there is no need to shock weekly, or on any other regular schedule).

I’ll test Alkalinity & Calcium Hardness (CH) weekly (perhaps early on you guys will have me test it more often). If those get out of the accepted range, the calc will tell me what to add. I’ll verify with you guys.
What are my “Target” TA, CH, pH?
I know the “Recommended Levels” from Pool School:
Plaster with Bleach:
FC 3-7
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90
CH 250-350
CYA 30-50

but when using the calc, I must enter a Target number, right?

Thanks
 
You are definitely on the right track.

Other than for FC and PH, you normally want the numbers to be in the middle of the range, though if one of them ends up somewhere else within the range you can just leave it there. PH will tend to drift in one direction or the other, when it gets to the end of the range you can adjust it to the other end of the range. The ideal FC target level is whatever level leaves the FC just above the minimum 24 hours later. Your FC target will move around some as the seasons change, since different amounts of chlorine will get consumed in different conditions.

Once things settle down, and CC is zero, you can probably use the OTO test kit for daily testing. Some people have trouble distinguishing numbers around 4 or 5, but it can be figured out with some practice and comparisons to the FAS-DPD test.
 
No, leave the shock target at 15. It may take a little while, and lots of sunlight, to get rid of the last bit of CC.

At this point, you probably only need to test and add chlorine once per evening, and you can cut back the pump run time somewhat, as long as the pump runs for a couple of hours after you add chlorine.

Now would also be a good time to double check that you are getting the test solution all the way to clear on the FC test, before starting the CC test. Now and then there can be a very very light pink that looks almost clear. If you stop at that point, CC will read 0.5 higher than it should. One good double check is to put some pool water in the other vial and compare the sample to it as you are getting near the end, to be sure you are getting the correct end point.
 
7:15pm, about 24 hours after last bleach addition (only 41oz), about 36 hours since aeration stopped.
Pump was off 2 hours

pH 7.2
FC 6.6
CC 1

Shock Target still 15 so I'll add 2 gallons 3 quarts or 3.6 (96 oz) jugs.

I'll get one or two other FC & CC tests by bedtime & add bleach if indicated (if FC is not 15, or the CC is > 0.5 with an FC of <15).

I'll stop the pump 2 hours after tonight's last bleach addition & resume it by the time the sun is on the pool tomarrow
 
This worries me
12:15am, about 5 hours since added bleach
FC 23.5
CC 1
Can't be? Repeat test
FC 26
CC 1
Repeat test
FC 22.5
CC 3

Did I over bleach at 7:15pm, no still see the empty jugs.
Was my 7:15pm test off? I distintcly remember & wrote down the # of drops & the FC (my post says 6.6, is 6.5).
The test isn't that hard, especially after doing it so many times & getting embarrased that I goofed.
Yet look at the variance above?
What could vary: Drop size- fresh bottle, careful as can be. Powder size- yes that can vary but I'm as consistent as I can be. #of ml-careful as can be & I'm used to reading ml. Time betw drops- very consistent. All the things mentioned in the beginning of this thread.
So Check the pH.
pH 7.5 (rose, been at 7.2 for days)

I'm at loss for an explanation.
I should have checked the CYA? I thought once a week was ok & on 4/12/09 it remained in range as it has from the beginning. No need to check CYA now as that affects Cl & I don't need to add Cl now, right?
But check CYA next time I want to add Cl & check it w you guys?

I will run the pump 24/7.
Tomarrow is sunny & 69F
I'm away about 9-4 tomarrow, but will check in before I leave- if you want me to perform something in the am please tell me.

You guys probably regret letting me on this form
 

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We don't regret that you are member. Don't be silly! :hammer:

I suspect testing error, and gosh it can happen to anyone. I think the 7:15 test could have been wrong, don't worry about the overdose it will be fine. Just means you don't need to add anything till you get back at 4pm and test again.

Was the water circulating for at least one hour at 12:15 am before you took the sample? Did all three test results come from the same container of pool water (1 sample) or did you go back to the pool three times/three areas of pool water sampled? Because this could explain why the numbers vary, otherwise it is testing error.
 
I'm certainly no expert but I've noticed something about Johnny's testing that I'm wondering about.

Please note that I use the Taylor K 2006 test kit and not the TF 100 so I don't know what his instructions say.

During his FC test I see that he waits 10 seconds between drops. My Taylor kit does not say for me to do that.

Doing a CH test I know that my mind can wander while waiting to move on to the next drop so I can easily loose track of the number of drops.

Even if he's using the 10ml test and has FC of 6.5 he's still dropping 13 drops taking two and a quarter minutes to do the test. FC in the 20s will need around 50 drops and eight and one half minutes to do the test.

Can this be introducing an error?

Could some of the FC be lost to the air from the sample over this period of time?

Am I doing my test wrong?
 
Interesting points you've raised, Grumpy....

I don't wait 10 seconds between drops for the FC test either. My TF instructions don't instruct that one wait 10 seconds between drops.

I add a drop, swirl for about 1 or 2 seconds to see if there is a color change, and then I add another drop, and so on.
 
The FAS-DPD chlorine tests in the Taylor kit and the TF100 are identical, though the instructions are written slightly differently.

You want to do the FC test fairly quickly, but you do need to give the sample some time to mix after each drop. I generally give it perhaps 1 or 2 seconds per drop through most of the sequence and then slow down to 5 to 10 seconds per drop right at the end when it is getting close to clear and there might be some ambiguity. If the entire FAS-DPD test takes too long the results can be off.

The CH test is very different, you need to give it at least 15 seconds per drop unless you have a magnetic stirrer.
 
Thanks for the concern grumpy. I found my error.
Time between drops was an error for me earlier- now I say the drop # aloud repeatedly till the next drop goes in; & I've figured Jason's "slower-towards-the-end" technique all by my brilliant self.
 

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