Testing fc with tf-100

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ch level is around 250 and water is pretty clear, not green nor cloudy

- - - Updated - - -

fc 1
ph 7.2
ta 120
ch 250
cya 30
salt 3400

tested cc this morning and it was a lot better was only 1.5-2ppm with fc at 1 again, added two more gallons of 12.5% before I left to work
 
Well got home after my son poured two gallons of 12.5 in and my fc was 1 and cc was 5. So I added 2 more gallons and will test it again here in a little while. The local pool store only had 3 gallons of 12.5 left. Guess a trip to the grocery store is in order shortly.


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This thing is killing me!!! Feel like I am just wasting time! And money! The 12.5 three gallons didn't affect the fc or cc at all. I tested again and got 1 fc and 5cc. Just added 3 gallons of 8.25 from food lion. So far I am up to 10 96oz bottles from the dollar tree, 11 gallons of 12.5 from the pool store. And 4 gallons of 8.25 from lowes, and just bought 10 gallons at food lion.
$70 at the pool store
$10 at dollar tree
$16 at lowes
$26 at food lion.

Good thing I got the xl version of the tf-100 kit!!! Please tell me I am getting closer or close to the end of the line before I convert back to the pool store.

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Just keep adding and I promise it will work! I had my doubts too. My slam took 13 days and my pool is much smaller than yours. I think I used 10 gallons of 8.25% and 16 gallons of 10%. Make sure you check the dates and do not get scents or easy pours. This will work if you stick with it.
 

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I see no problem using cal-hypo to SLAM, given your CH is 250. Do be sure that pH is low when you use cal-hypo and that may be the problem if your FC is above 10 which is high enough to not be able to test pH correctly.

After seeing the calcium ring that my pool got after using cal-hypo when it floated to the side and clung and made a line, now I take the time to dissolve the cal-hypo in a bucket before adding to the pool. A little will still float away, but not a whole lot. And I always remove the skimmer socks for that floating cal-hypo ruins them right away.

So, when I do shock with cal-hypo, I adjust pH rather low first, 7.2 to 7.5, then bring to shock level with dissolved cal-hypo. I'll use cal-hypo for a few times, given whatever room I have before CH is nearing 300-350. Then switch to bleach or liquid pool shock which is 12.5%.
 
anonapersona said:
I see no problem using cal-hypo to SLAM, given your CH is 250. Do be sure that pH is low when you use cal-hypo and that may be the problem if your FC is above 10 which is high enough to not be able to test pH correctly.

After seeing the calcium ring that my pool got after using cal-hypo when it floated to the side and clung and made a line, now I take the time to dissolve the cal-hypo in a bucket before adding to the pool. A little will still float away, but not a whole lot. And I always remove the skimmer socks for that floating cal-hypo ruins them right away.

So, when I do shock with cal-hypo, I adjust pH rather low first, 7.2 to 7.5, then bring to shock level with dissolved cal-hypo. I'll use cal-hypo for a few times, given whatever room I have before CH is nearing 300-350. Then switch to bleach or liquid pool shock which is 12.5%.
Click to expand...

I can do it just as offen with cal-hypo? with the weekend I can stay on the pool every hour to try to get some levels up in the pool, right now my ph is low and I added some borax this morning to rasie it

so the question if I can use cal-hypo can I do it just as offen, every hour, test and add product
 
so in my thinking since my cc is dropping well that my problem is getting better? yes or no?? but what I don't understand is why the fc will not come up at all? going crazy over here!

I take a sample 10ml and add one scoop of the powder, using the powerstir and the stuff barely turns pink
two drops it is clear as can be
add 003 5 drops, and it is pink as can be and only takes a 1-3 drops to return to clear



I have been dumping the bleach in the deep end over the return jet
pulling the sample water from the same area of the pool everytime,(not close to the return) about a ft and half down

is there anything I should be doing to the sample tube other then just rinsing it out with the water hose?
 
Generally yes, when the CC starts to drop the next thing to happen is the FC will begin to hold more. I didn't see it mentioned, but you may have CYA that converted to ammonia and it takes a while to clear that out.

Stay the course, you are moving in the right direction.

Just rinsing the tube works. If it starts to get real cloudy you can clean it with a very mild/dilute muratic acid solution.
 
tim5055 said:
Generally yes, when the CC starts to drop the next thing to happen is the FC will begin to hold more. I didn't see it mentioned, but you may have CYA that converted to ammonia and it takes a while to clear that out.

Stay the course, you are moving in the right direction.

Just rinsing the tube works. If it starts to get real cloudy you can clean it with a very mild/dilute muratic acid solution.
Click to expand...


yes it was mentioned that along with mine and three other threads all seem to have the same problem, I haven't seen the other threads where they are adding tons of bleach with no results. when I tested for cya it was clear all the way to the top of the tube, so I added 8lbs of conditioner, the last time I checked cya was two days ago and got a reading around 30ppm
 
Yes, you are describing the symptoms of ammonia. The chlorine goes away quickly as it oxidizes the ammonia and you get the feeling nothing is happening. It is, trust us. With the CC dropping generally all the ammonia is gone and now you are back to the "normal" SLAM - getting rid of the other stuff in the water.

It takes time and chlorine.
 
With ammonia...it's almost like the two (ammonia and chlorine) cancel each other out. You pour in the chlorine and poof it gets eaten up by the ammonia...BUT...it's taking care of the ammonia too! That's why the CC starts crazy high and goes down little by little. There's nothing to do except keep adding chlorine until it's finished "killing" that ammonia. Then you'll reach the tipping point and you'll come back to retest after adding your chlorine and finally find some FC in there! Once that happens it's a *lot* easier to keep the FC at the right levels and you'll finally be able to spread out your testing and dosing as it will not be dropping so crazy fast.

Ammonia is just a really bad chlorine eater.

Keep it up and get through that ammonia. You'll win this fight!
 

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