Test my water with
- Thread starter hairco
- Start date
I did the muratic acid and got my pH down.So now what do i need to do?
This is my numbers now.
FC 3
TC 3
pH. 7.2
TA 150
CYA O
I know i need some more bleach weren't sure if i could do bleach that soon.
This is my numbers now.
FC 3
TC 3
pH. 7.2
TA 150
CYA O
I know i need some more bleach weren't sure if i could do bleach that soon.
I'm a bit confusued. How did your CYA get from 100 to 0? I have told you a few times you want it between 30-50 ppm.hairco said:
Pay close attention. You were posting a page back that your CYA was at 100 ppm, now you are posting it is at 0 ppm. I am asking how did your CYA go from 100 ppm to 0 ppm, that would require a COMPLETE draining and refilling of your pool. I have told you two times in this thread that you want your CYA between 30-50 ppm. I believe that my posts to that effect have been clear:hairco said:
waterbear said:
waterbear said:
waterbear said:
To bring your CYA up to the correct range you go to the pool store, buy some CYA (often called stabilizer) and add it to the pool. You need to calculate the correct amount based on how many gallons of water your pool holds. You can use the pool calculator to do that. I know you have used that before.
My best suggestion to you right now would be to click the link at the top of the page for pool school, read everything in that section at least twice, and when you are done come back to this thread. Until you are speaking the same language as everyone else on here it is fruitless and if you would take the time to read the resouces posted here you would not be asking questions like:
A lot of people have been trying to help you but you need to do your part also and read up on the good info posted here so you at least have some background in what we are trying to help you with. If we are not all speaking the same langauge it's rather pointless, isn't it?hairco said:
Thanks for your help.
I calculated and it said i needed 93oz. of bleach
and 63oz of stabilizer.I understand the stabiliazer part now, but i am worried about the bleach.
I don't wont to over stabilize. Thanks
I calculated and it said i needed 93oz. of bleach
and 63oz of stabilizer.I understand the stabiliazer part now, but i am worried about the bleach.
I don't wont to over stabilize. Thanks
hairco said:
waterbear said:
Are you reading what people are posting here? The quote of mine is now posted in this thread for the third time.
Here are some quotes from the Pool School article on definitions and abbreviations. I have put some things in bold for you. My suggestion again is to study the info in the Pool School section. It can really help you:
Sodium Hypochlorite -- a liquid, unstabilized chlorine that is suitable for shocking or normal chlorination. It has minimal impact on pH and other water parameters. It comes in different strengths. The 12.5% strength is the most commonly used in pools and is easy to dose. Each ounce will raise 1000 gallons 1 ppm FC.
Bleach -- See sodium hypochlorite above because that is what bleach is. It comes in 6% strength as Ultra bleach, 5.25% strength as regular bleach, and sometimes as 3% strength for some of the 'cheapie' bargain bleaches. You want to use plain, unscented bleach for your pool, not the scented or thickened kinds! One gallon will raise 10,000 gallons of water approximately the percentage of the bleach in FC (i.e, one gallon of 6% ultra bleach will raise 10,000 gallons approx. 6 ppm FC)
Trichlor -- trichloro-s-triazinetrione, trichloroisocyanuric acid (a stabilized form of chlorine [chlorinated isocyanurate] usually sold in tablet or stick form for use in automatic chlorinators or in floating dispensers since it is very slow dissolving. It has a very low pH and will lower pH and TA. It is a good choice for new plaster pool startup chlorination because of this It will cause CYA levels to rise with continued use so it is not a good choice for those with cartridge filters or in climates that do not winterize pools and have an extended swim season. It will add .6 part CYA for every 1 part of chlorine it adds.
I did the Muratic Acid last night and i tested my water today
and my reading is.
FC 3 ( Would you take up to 4?
pH 7.8 (Would you bring it down to 4?
TA 150
I ran out of the solotion to test for CYA i have to go tomorrow
and get some.
I also will take a water sample.
Am i doing better Waterbear?
My pool is a 14x32 i calalated and said it held 15000 gal.
and my reading is.
FC 3 ( Would you take up to 4?
pH 7.8 (Would you bring it down to 4?
TA 150
I ran out of the solotion to test for CYA i have to go tomorrow
and get some.
I also will take a water sample.
Am i doing better Waterbear?
My pool is a 14x32 i calalated and said it held 15000 gal.
This takeing care of a pool and working is just not for me.
When i think i am on the road to recover my ph goes crazy.
I was not able to put any chemical in the pool last night except for my CYA
because i could not check it in 30 min. so i started to night and
my reading is.
FC 5
TC 2.4
CC 3.4
pH 8.0
CH 30 Or is it 300
CYA 100
I guess it takes a while for my CYAto get down.I just went out and put in my Muratic Acid and
will ck. in 30 mins.
When i think i am on the road to recover my ph goes crazy.
I was not able to put any chemical in the pool last night except for my CYA
because i could not check it in 30 min. so i started to night and
my reading is.
FC 5
TC 2.4
CC 3.4
pH 8.0
CH 30 Or is it 300
CYA 100
I guess it takes a while for my CYAto get down.I just went out and put in my Muratic Acid and
will ck. in 30 mins.
CYA 100 is too high. You need to drain out some water and refill to get that down. Until you do that you are going to continue to have problems. I hope you did not add MORE CYA if yours is testing at 100 ppm (which is what you originally posted, then you posted it was at 0! CYA will not change like that so I think you are having some problems with your testing.hairco said:
If the CH test took 30 drops then it's 300 ppm, if it took 3 drop it's 30 ppm. Not really rocket science.
As far as taking care of your pool and working, we are all in that boat. The problem I have seen is that what you are posting is not consistent and some of it is plain impossible. We can only go on the information you give us but some of it has been very inconsistent! Not knowing if the CH is 30 or 300 tells me you have NOT read the instructions for that test, which clearly state that every drop is equal to 10 ppm CH! You said you have a Taylor K-2005. The instructions for each test are right on the lid of the blue box it came in. There is really no reason to have these kind of problems if you would read the instructions.
Now your CYA is 50. The last test you had it at 100 and the other day you had it a 0. I don't know which to believe.hairco said:
THAT is the problem. What is it going to be the next time you test it?
Why didn't you test for combined chlorine?
a€t this point I would shock the pool with bleach to get rid of the CC. You also want to bring up yoru calcium hardness. This can help prevent future staining and cobalt spotting. Shhot for about 250 ppm CH.hairco said:
It is 8.06 oclock here and i just did a sample of my pool water
and they have really change again.Is there something growing in my pool
or is it the heat and sun? I am going again to put Muratic acid and bleach in.
FC 1
TC 1
CC 0
pH 7.6
TA 120
CH 30
CYA 100
I know my numbers are right.
and they have really change again.Is there something growing in my pool
or is it the heat and sun? I am going again to put Muratic acid and bleach in.
FC 1
TC 1
CC 0
pH 7.6
TA 120
CH 30
CYA 100
I know my numbers are right.
The chlorine is a consumable so it does get used up. That is why it needs to be put in daily. However, the CYA should not be changing like that. The only thing I can think of is that your pool is cloudy from algae and when you add chlorine it clears it a bit but then it gets cloudy again. The cloudiness is making you think the CYA is higher than it actually is. We need you to describe what your water looks like in addition to posting the numbers. There seems to be a real communication problem going on here. You are just not providing us with the whole picture. You are a hairdresser so you know that you need to communicate with your client when they sit in your chair so you know EXACTLY what they want. If they say cut my hair and make me blond and you give them a heavy frosting and a pixie cut when what they wanted was a deep gold single process and a chin length swingline bob you know they will not be happy so the first thing you do is question them to find out what they really want. This is much the same except YOU are that client that is really not telling us everything. My comment about the time above is to illustrate what I am talking about. I am sure you meant 8:06 but you did not say am or pm (fm is a type of radio) and the o'clock after the time is not needed but it does show the communication breakdown that has been going on since you started this thread.hairco said: