Temporary piping for leaking pool

doggonepool

Gold Supporter
Jul 22, 2020
29
Front Range, Colorado
All right, guys.

Yet again, my pool has sprung a leak. I'm busy seeing where it settles (level wise) and then will begin what might be a challenging repair. I have another thread for the leak.

This thread is about how I might be able to use my filter and pump while my skimmer and my return lines are high and dry.

My skimmer and my main drain are not divisible but I'm wondering if I could use either a rubber bung (might it get sucked into the pipe) or a plumber's test plug (hard plastic, rubber expanding gasket) to prevent the skimmer from sucking air. Then I could run my pump using only the main drain. The return jets would fire onto the dry shell sides so I'm sure my evaporation would go way up but for the moment I just need to get the water clean enough to not cause problems. The pool won't really be used in this state.

Or would I be better off rigging temporary prvc plumbing. It's an awful lot of dangling pvc to connect the pump without using the in-ground plumbing but I guess I could make a suction point at the bottom of the pool and a return onto the slope. I've got plenty of pvc lying around though it would likely permanently waste a decent number of fittings.

Or should I look for a pond pump with a standalone filter? That seems like an expensive item for a temporary rig however.

What have other people done? I did a forum search but most posts didn't have any pictures of their jury rigging or referred to paying someone else to temp it in without much more information.

Thanks.
 
Another option might be to increase the FC to your SLAM FC level. That should buy you 2-3 days or so. Then use a separate sump pump to keep water moving around. Brush from time to time as well to help with circulation. That might buy you enough time to let that water fall down to your suspected trouble area.
 
Yeah, I've slammed it twice already. I was losing 4" a day so that went pretty quick but I'm more in the 1" per day amount now (whereas calculated evap is ~1/3"). At this rate, if it runs to empty, I'll need a month. I guess I'm expecting to stop leaking in 7-10 days for no particular reason other than since it slowed it must be near the level of the leak. I didn't expect it to become a slow leak given it ran fast to start (and did the same thing last year before I replaced the HRV).

Has anyone used a plumber test plug in their skimmer to run their pump against just the main drain? Given I have a single speed (1.65 sfhp) pump, am I risking my pump with only the main drain to pull on?
 
Skimmer drops 10' into the ground to tee into the main drain. (those *******). That 1.5" suction pipe (****) goes directly to the pump

(Drain+Skimmer)->Pump->MPV->Filter->Heater takeoff->[3 returns] + [waterfall] + [slide]

Returns do have shut-off valves that I added, grouped per the brackets.
 
@ajw22, will a regular winterized plug provide the air seal the OP is looking for to pull from MD only?

It should. Just get the correct size.

Tapered rubber winter expansion plugs with a wingnut to tighten come in various sizes:
  • 0 - 1/2" pipe tapered
  • 1 - 1/2" pipe
  • 2 - 3/4" tube tapered
  • 3 - 3/4" pipe
  • 4 - 3/4" and 1" pipe
  • 5 - 1" pipe
  • 6 - 1" fitting
  • 7 - 1 1/4" pipe tapered
  • 8 - 1 1/2" pipe tapered
  • 9 - 1 1/2" pipe and 1 1/4" fitting tapered
  • 10 - 1 1/2" fitting tapered
  • 11 - 2" pipe
  • 15 - 4" pipe
  • 16 - 4" pipe

There are also extra long tapered plugs that can cover #7 to #10 sizes.

Rubber_Expansion_plug.jpg
 
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Thanks guys. I forgot my skimmer bucket has a threaded port. I trying a threaded piece of capped pvc in the skimmer. As soon as my new pump unions get here (whacked some plumbing to try to camera the suction line so I might as well improve the pump setup), I'll set it up and try it out.
 
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