Tech came out to warranty a few things today and said we absolutely should not be using liquid chlorine and will void warranty...

[SJPoe]

I'd keep a small container of granular near the spa and let them think this is what's used without getting into conversations about it. Just be sure to have your answer when the tech asks you how much you use. You use whatever suits you and don't keep the chlorine jug in sight.

This!

I actually do have a tub of granular Dichlor - I only really use it when the CYA in the HotTub eventually degrades and needs a little boost (I like to keep it around 30-40ppm just for comfort). Also, with a water change, its easier to use the granules to boost FC and CYA together until LC alone is enough to maintain the sanitation.

The ONLY issue with using LC in your hot tub vs Granular Chlorine (by which they mean Dichlor...because Cal-Hypo they'll refer to as 'shock') is that it isn't buffered by the CYA - if you put LC in your tub and didn't maintain the FC/CYA relationship, then yes, it can be very harsh and could be an issue. If you follow the advice here, and maintain the FC/CYA relationship within the specific range, there is no risk of damaging anything.

 

[phonedave]

Just to refute some of the points

1. Once free chlorine is in the water there is no way for the spa to tell where it comes form. Liquid Chlorine, Bleach, DiChlor, SWCG, etc. Once the chlorine is in the water it is all EXACTLY the same

2. Will it void your warranty? Maybe. But that does not mean it is bad. If your warranty stated that you cannot use the hot tub during a full moon, doing so would void your warranty. Just because it is stated in the warranty does not mean it is going to hurt the tub. Many manufactures don't want you using bleach/chlorine because if you mess up and pour full strength LC on a headrest, or trim, or control panel, it might cause some damage.

3. It is going to eat away your pipes and seals. I guess they say this because they think it is somehow "Stronger"? I have had friend I talked to about using bleach in their pools say "I am going to keep using pucks because bleach is so harsh". It is the same stuff. I guess you could take a quart of bleach and dump it right into the filter intake and that would introduce a shot of high FC concentration to your spa innards for a few minutes. But on that topic see the below info (Long-Term Effects of Chlorine on PVC and CPVC Piping Systems.)

How Well Do PVC and CPVC Resist Chlorine?​

Because of the chemical composition of PVC and CPVC piping, they are highly resistant to chlorine, and here's why.

PVC​

Polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC, is a plastic piping material that consists of a combination of ethylene and chlorine. Because chlorine is included in the design of PVC, it has a built-in resistance to its corrosive properties. As such, PVC piping holds up very well against chlorine and doesn't require the addition of additives or antioxidants for external protection.

CPVC​

As with PVC, CPVC is highly resistant to chlorine and other chemicals. In many ways, CPVC, chlorinated polyvinyl chloride, is even more resistant to chlorine than PVC because of the additional chlorination process that goes into designing it. As such, it's the most resistant plastic piping when it comes to holding up against chlorine and doesn't require additional antioxidants or coatings for protection.


I have been using bleach and/or liquid chlorine in my hot tub for 4 years now, without issue. I pour it, full strength, into the middle of the spa, with both jet pumps on.

 

[Newdude]

I could see the industry folks being afraid of LC in a hot tub. They're selling 12.5% LC and if the customer grabbed some of their liquid shock and eyeballed 6 oz too much, it'd add 15 FC over the target in a 400 gal hot tub.

It'd probably be fine after all the dichlor they had the customer add, but they don't recognize the CYAs effects on buffering the HOCL in the LC, so to them it would be dangerous.

So while I don't agree with them, I can see them wanting to protect the average wahoo from over dosing.

 

[SJPoe]

if the customer grabbed some of their liquid shock and eyeballed 6 oz too much, it'd add 15 FC over the target in a 400 gal hot tub.

I mean, if I'm honest, half the time I don't measure the FC level in the hot tub - I grab a sample, throw the DPD power in, and if it doesn't go pink enough, I'll add some LC - I already know roughly how much I'm expecting to need, and after a while, you can tell if you're at 3ppm or 10ppm just by the shade of pink...

1/2 cup of 12% is about 9ppm - with my CYA at 30-40, my SLAM level is 12-16ppm, so even if I have 2-4ppm in the hot tub (light pink, sort of rose color), I'm still only going to be at the 11-13ppm mark, which is basically SLAM level, and perfectly fine to be in. Most of the time its just the wife and I anyway...

If we are going to have company that will use the Hot Tub (like my Daughter-in-Law and her friends) then I'll make a point of getting the levels perfect in advance, at the high end of normal, and then I boost to SLAM afterwards.

 

[wickflair23]

I mean, if I'm honest, half the time I don't measure the FC level in the hot tub - I grab a sample, throw the DPD power in, and if it doesn't go pink enough, I'll add some LC - I already know roughly how much I'm expecting to need, and after a while, you can tell if you're at 3ppm or 10ppm just by the shade of pink...

1/2 cup of 12% is about 9ppm - with my CYA at 30-40, my SLAM level is 12-16ppm, so even if I have 2-4ppm in the hot tub (light pink, sort of rose color), I'm still only going to be at the 11-13ppm mark, which is basically SLAM level, and perfectly fine to be in. Most of the time its just the wife and I anyway...

If we are going to have company that will use the Hot Tub (like my Daughter-in-Law and her friends) then I'll make a point of getting the levels perfect in advance, at the high end of normal, and then I boost to SLAM afterwards.

What level do you shoot for when friends are going to be over?

 

[SJPoe]

What level do you shoot for when friends are going to be over?

Generally top of the normal range, up to the SLAM level - I aim for about 12, but I'm not micro-measuring the LC either - a half cup is +9, which will put me at the top of the range even if there is 0 in the hot tub to start. Plus or Minus a couple PPM isn't going to hurt anyone during a 30 minute bubble

The key with the hot tub is to remember your bather load is HUGE. 4 people in the 450gal hot tub is like 225 in my pool...thats a LOT of people. Plus the water is hot, people sweat even in the water...its basically people-soup, LC breaks down much quicker in the heat too.

Bottom line, As long as you maintain the FC/CYA relationship, you can happily go up to SLAM level without issue - I doubt anyone will even notice

 

[cledee]

Generally top of the normal range, up to the SLAM level - I aim for about 12, but I'm not micro-measuring the LC either - a half cup is +9, which will put me at the top of the range even if there is 0 in the hot tub to start. Plus or Minus a couple PPM isn't going to hurt anyone during a 30 minute bubble

The key with the hot tub is to remember your bather load is HUGE. 4 people in the 450gal hot tub is like 225 in my pool...thats a LOT of people. Plus the water is hot, people sweat even in the water...its basically people-soup, LC breaks down much quicker in the heat too.

Bottom line, As long as you maintain the FC/CYA relationship, you can happily go up to SLAM level without issue - I doubt anyone will even notice

I agree, always better to overshoot by a little than under.

 

[Rattus Suffocatus]

You could probably use Cal hypo too... By the time CH gets too high in a hot tub, likely it's water change time anyway. LC is probably the best method as long as you don't overdose.

 

[wireform]

Or, you can raise the CYA a little to gain a higher level of FC then the people soup won't dip below.

 

[phonedave]

I mean, if I'm honest, half the time I don't measure the FC level in the hot tub - I grab a sample, throw the DPD power in, and if it doesn't go pink enough, I'll add some LC - I already know roughly how much I'm expecting to need, and after a while, you can tell if you're at 3ppm or 10ppm just by the shade of pink...

1/2 cup of 12% is about 9ppm - with my CYA at 30-40, my SLAM level is 12-16ppm, so even if I have 2-4ppm in the hot tub (light pink, sort of rose color), I'm still only going to be at the 11-13ppm mark, which is basically SLAM level, and perfectly fine to be in. Most of the time its just the wife and I anyway...

If we are going to have company that will use the Hot Tub (like my Daughter-in-Law and her friends) then I'll make a point of getting the levels perfect in advance, at the high end of normal, and then I boost to SLAM afterwards.

When I go on vacation and we have people watching the house, my instructions are: "add 2oz of bleach to the hot tub each day. In addition, if you use it with one or two people, add 2 more ounces of beach when you are done, if you have people over and have 3 or 4 people in the tub, add 3 oz of bleach when you are done".

No need to for them to even test. That is enough chlorine for normal purposes. My tubs ozone consumes just under 2 oz of bleach a day and I make sure before I leave the FC is on the upper end of the range for my CYA.

That works just fine for the week or so that I am not home. Nobody is having a rave with dozens of people spilling booze and whatever else in the tub.

 

[RDspaguy]

It seems everyone has pretty well covered it, but I will repeat three points.
1) LC spilled on equipment will cause damage that will not be covered under warranty. LC added habitually in the same location (too close to the side for example) can discolor acrylic (something with a long warranty and spa replacement as the fix) and deteriorate rubber gaskets over time (alot of stuff does that). Excluding it saves alot of expensive warranty claims. The manufacturer doesn't really care, they just don't want to pay for your mistakes. This has been used by unscrupulous manufacturers to get out of legitimate (according to the customer) warranty claims. I won't name any names, but it starts with cal and it's not caldera.
As far as glue goes, there have been a few notable glue breakdown issues over the years, including 95-97 sundance, and every cal spa with red or blue flex pvc. D1 had a problem too, but it may have been shrinking foam and not glue after all. But alot of warranty claims got blamed on chemistry for lack of a better excuse.
2) As I've said many times, as a tech who has been in thousands of backyards, just being interested enough to be on this forum puts you in the 1% of spa owners. Most have no clue, don't check regularly, guess at amounts and necessity, and thought it took care of itself when they bought it. I've had owners reply "It has a filter?" when asked if they cleaned it recently. I've had customers who dump and fill every week and don't use chems at all. I can't tell you how many tubs I wouldn't touch until I'd made it visible from orbit. While you are likely to use it with the necessary care, the average spa owner, I assure you, is not.
3) LC is unstabilized, and as such adds an additional step, and test, to a routine most people already don't follow very well (though many think they do). From a tech perspective, the simpler the better for most people. If you could put it all in one bottle you'd be on your private island right now.

 

[clduncan]

I do not even have a spa and I am loving reading this thread. Just another reason why TFP is the best and most if not ALL "pool" stores are garbage.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

...I've had owners reply "It has a filter?" when asked if they cleaned it recently.

So you know my brother-in-law then ...

 

[Lake Placid]

My Sundance had a few issues, so a tech came out today. My wife got talking and explained how we were using liquid chlorine. The tech lost his mind and said that you cannot use liquid in a hot tub and it will destroy the pipes and void the warranty. Is there any merit to this? I found this article and got me questioning everything.

Can I Use Liquid Chlorine in My Hot Tub? – 3 Main Reasons Why You Should Use Chlorine Tablets | Swim Pool Guide

Can I Use Liquid Chlorine in My Hot Tub? - 3 Main Reasons Why You Should Use Chlorine Tablets or Chlorine Granules to Clean Your Spa

swimpoolguide.com

Late to the party but the author of this article clearly has no financial incentive to push dichlor or tablets….he’s very trustworthy….

“SwimPoolGuide.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC associates program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases at NO additional cost to the customer. We are compensated for referring traffic and business to Amazon and other companies linked to on this site.”

“These are some of the major reasons why using liquid chlorine in your hot tub is a bad idea.

I don’t recommend this at all.

Instead of this, you can use chlorine granules or chlorine tabletsto get the work done faster and safer.

That too, without harming your hot tub chemistry, isn’t it great?

Click Here to Get the Best Quality Chlorine Tablets to Clean Your Hot Tub.

Click Here to Get the Best Chlorine Granules to Clean Your Hot Tub”

Uh huh…totally unbiased opinion.