Taking pool into my own hands.

mtc89

Member
Jul 1, 2022
7
Dixon, CA
I’ve been paying $110/month for the 2.5 years I’ve owned this house/pool for the pool service. Pool guy no-call no-show’d for one of my weeks of service last month (3rd time this year) causing the pool to turn green. When I addressed him on it, said he wasn’t feeling good. Who knows.. But then he had the nerve to increase the service cost to $120 this month moving forward, I don’t think so.

I know how the pump and plumbing system works, but I don’t know very much about the chemicals. I have to clean out the cartridge filter at least once a month, weekly in spring. I have no idea how many gallons this pool is.

I’m going to buy a Taylor test kit tomorrow and a dozen gallons or so of 10% chlorine to get me started. I know to not overuse tabs because CYA is hard to get rid of. The only way I can drain my pool is to simply run the pump with the filter drain plug uninstalled.

Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself. I’m Mike in Dixon, CA. Nice to be a part of this very helpful forum.

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Hello Mike and welcome to TFP! :wave: You are right to take charge of your pool. The chemistry is much easier than you might think. Once you understand a few basic principles, it's a piece of cake. For the test kit, be sure you either get the TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. Those are the two you need to look for. The TF-100 is stocked with Taylor reagents but packaged independently by tftestkits.net at a better value (IMO). But your call.

Be sure to read and bookmark our Pool Care Basics for just about everything you need to know to get started. We'll be here to help.

How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
Welcome to the forum Mike!
Be sure to get a proper kit. Typically they are only available through on-line retailers. The Taylor K2006C or for a better value the TF100 or best overall value the TFPro from TFTestkits.net.
Once you get your kit, run a full set of tests and post them here.
In the interim, be sure to add at least 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
So it’s been a while since I made this post, and I never delivered the update. Took a couple weeks to get the testing kit, but then my son was born shortly after so I’ve been quite busy!

I have a problem though, while I can easily test for chlorine PPM, I have no idea his many gallons my pool is, so I don’t know how to calculate the appropriate chemicals to add. My test kit showed I had basically zero CYA, so I’ve been using Clorox tablets in conjunction with liquid chlorine, just ball parking to keep it clean. Testing every few days for CYA, but that little vial test where you look down into it at the black dot still shows nothing. Perfectly clear even when filled all the way to the brim.

I started getting some moderate algae buildup, so I increased my filter pump runtime from 8 to 12 hours, and have been adding more chlorine, but without the CYA it’s just been getting decimated by the brutal heat we’ve been having lately. I bought one of those copper anode electrolysis devices that supposedly make your chlorine last longer, we will see how it goes. It was from Costco so I can always return it if it doesn’t work.

Anyway, the pool looks great right now, I just wish I could figure out how many gallons it is. It’s such an oblong shape with uneven depth that I can’t even ballpark it geometrically.
 
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I bought one of those copper anode electrolysis devices that supposedly make your chlorine last longer, we will see how it goes. It was from Costco so I can always return it if it doesn’t work.
Take it back. You don't want any copper near that water. Copper is bad in a pool and over time can cause really bad staining. You're right about the CYA though, you need some. Adding granular for a CYA goal of 30 would be best. Since you saw algae, you'll also need to perform a SLAM Process. So a CYA goal of 30 requires a SLAM FC level of 12 per the FC/CYA Levels.

There's a basic tool in the old Poolmath web version in my signature that may help you wit the pool volume.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Some people like to squirt enough solution to go line-by-line for a better feel. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the PoolMath APP into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After about 30 minutes of soaking, squeeze the sock continuously to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
...but then my son was born shortly after so I’ve been quite busy!
Congratulations, dad! The pool is a wonderful center for family life as soon as everyone learns how to swim. Bless your whole family and be safe. Folks here will take care of you.
 
Take it back. You don't want any copper near that water. Copper is bad in a pool and over time can cause really bad staining. You're right about the CYA though, you need some. Adding granular for a CYA goal of 30 would be best. Since you saw algae, you'll also need to perform a SLAM Process. So a CYA goal of 30 requires a SLAM FC level of 12 per the FC/CYA Levels.

There's a basic tool in the old Poolmath web version in my signature that may help you wit the pool volume.
Can I ask why is the copper device marketed as a pool cleaning tool if it is so detrimental to pools?

And thanks for the congrats guys!
 

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Can I ask why is the copper device marketed as a pool cleaning tool if it is so detrimental to pools?
Copper is a very good algaecide so it is widely used BUT it has side effects that TFP thinks it's not worth it. Copper stains are incredibly hard to remove (if you can at all) se we suggest you simply stay away from it's use. Better ways to accomplish the same thing.
 
I have to clean out the cartridge filter at least once a month, weekly in spring.
That seems abnormally frequent. What are you cleaning out of it?

I have no idea how many gallons this pool is.
You don't need to know exactly. Make a guess at the surface area, maybe by measuring length and width of a rectangle that approximately fits the outline of the pool (err on the side of making the rectangle too small, not too big). Then assume the average depth is the average of the shallow-end depth and the deep-end depth.

If your measurements are in feet, Length x Width x Depth x 7.5 will give you the volume in gallons. Round down to the nearest 1000 gallons and use that as your initial estimate of the pool volume. It's better for the estimate to be too small than too big.

Add chemicals based on the estimated volume, then measure the result. If the results are always consistently lower than what you expected, increase your volume estimate by 500 gallons; if they're consistently higher, decrease your estimate by 500 or 1000 gallons. It won't take long to zero in on the actual volume.

Can I ask why is the copper device marketed as a pool cleaning tool if it is so detrimental to pools?
Remember, your pool-service guy was marketed as beneficial, too.
 
Those Clorox xtra-blue tablets also have copper in them that you don’t want to use. Best to stay with pure stabilizer. You can sell the pucks for top dollar on craigslist, at least that’s what I did.
 
Thanks for the welcome, guys. I got the pro kit with a pH tester from tftestkits.

Anyone know of a better deal available in CA for liquid chlorine than the 10% 1 gallon for $5 at Walmart?
I'm in Merced, and Wal-Mart ($4.97 per gal) and Home Depot ($9.98 for 2 gallons) have the best price on liquid chlorine. Bleach is more expensive and less concentrated than that everywhere I've checked.
 
I'm in Merced, and Wal-Mart ($4.97 per gal) and Home Depot ($9.98 for 2 gallons) have the best price on liquid chlorine. Bleach is more expensive and less concentrated than that everywhere I've checked.
Walmart actually had a 2 pack of 1 gallon bottles of 10% in a cardboard box for $9.49, might want to check that out. A humble 5% less, but the best I’ve found.
 
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Rise from your grave, my thread!

Ok so I returned the copper thing, which after 24 hours in my pool was COVERED in calcium deposits from my super hard water. That would have never worked without daily cleaning anyway.

Went through a 10-pack of chlorine pucks for convenience cause things have been very busy, but the pool has looked great. Got a bit of algae growing cause the past 7 days have all been 110 - 116° and I haven’t been monitoring it. CYA is still showing 0 on my testing kit, so I just cleaned out my filter cartridge and put 2lbs of granular in the skimmer basket and am gonna run the pump for the next 48 hours.

I’ll check the CYA in 2 days and try to correct it to 30ppm.
 
The algae will probably keep showing up until you do a SLAM. And it is better to put the stabilizer in a sock in front of your return jet vs put it directly in skimmer.
 
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