Taking over chem duties

[crujonescheated]

Hi Everyone,

I just opened my first pool a month ago, and from what I've read here, it seems as though I may need to drain some pool water to get rid of what seems to be a CYA overload, and possibly switch to liquid chlorine (currently using trichlor tabs). I would rather not drain half of the pool just to get through the remaining swim season unless totally necessary. Please offer up any advice you can. Here's what I'm looking at...

24ft above-ground pool
Free Chlorine = 7.5
Total Chlorine = 7.5
PH = 7.6
CYA = 80

I tested using a Taylor k2005 test kit and punched the numbers in to the pool math app. I'll be honest, I'm having a hard time differentiating the colors for the chlorine tests. Should I switch to using a FAS-DPD test kit for that?

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
If you are diligent and do not get algae, you can maintain the pool with the high CYA. Follow FC/CYA Levels
You do need to get a FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test
Be aware that pH test is not accurate if your FC is above 10 ppm.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[crujonescheated]

Thank you. I definitely read the ABC's, already. It's a lot to take in. Between working from home, watching the kiddo, and installing a pool/deck mostly by myself, my brain is fried!

 

[Dirk]

Others here can help you decide about when to replace water, just be mindful of when you do it. My water company bases the following year's sewer charges on how much water I use in the winter months (their theory being that one doesn't water the garden in the winter, so any water used is in the house and going down the drain into the sewer system). So I'm careful to water the garden, and the pool, sparsely during the months my water company is tracking usage for sewer charge calculation. Check with your local utilities about how that works in your area before you exchange thousands of gallons of water...

More importantly, certain types of pools, and/or pools in certain locations, rely on the presence of the water to maintain structural integrity. Draining a pool can cause structural problems if you're not careful about it. Did you know, under certain circumstances, an in-ground pool without all it's water in place can "float" right out of the ground? So what might have been a decision based on how much you'll spend on replacing water, can turn into a nightmare of replacing your entire pool!! Even though you've got an above ground pool, just check in here before you do something like that and you'll get lots of advice about the right way to do it safely...

 

[Richard320]

Provided you have no algae, you can maintain the pool at 80 CYA, even using bleach. You won't use much more than you would at lower CYA, but if you do get algae, lookout! Just follow the FC/CYA Levels and be diligent about staying above minimum FC and about brushing.

 

[crujonescheated]

Others here can help you decide about when to replace water, just be mindful of when you do it. My water company bases the following year's sewer charges on how much water I use in the winter months (their theory being that one doesn't water the garden in the winter, so any water used is in the house and going down the drain into the sewer system). So I'm careful to water the garden, and the pool, sparsely during the months my water company is tracking usage for sewer charge calculation. Check with your local utilities about how that works in your area before you exchange thousands of gallons of water...

More importantly, certain types of pools, and/or pools in certain locations, rely on the presence of the water to maintain structural integrity. Draining a pool can cause structural problems if you're not careful about it. Did you know, under certain circumstances, an in-ground pool without all it's water in place can "float" right out of the ground? So what might have been a decision based on how much you'll spend on replacing water, can turn into a nightmare of replacing your entire pool!! Even though you've got an above ground pool, just check in here before you do something like that and you'll get lots of advice about the right way to do it safely...

Thanks for the info. I'm well aware of the structural integrity with/without water. I had to use about 12 tie-downs to hold the wall in place while I installed the liner and filled the pool. That was nerve racking.

 

[crujonescheated]

Provided you have no algae, you can maintain the pool at 80 CYA, even using bleach. You won't use much more than you would at lower CYA, but if you do get algae, lookout! Just follow the FC/CYA Levels and be diligent about staying above minimum FC and about brushing.

Thank you. I've been restocking the trichlor tabs twice per week. If I switch to bleach will it require more frequent tests and replenishing?

 

[Richard320]

Thank you. I've been restocking the trichlor tabs twice per week. If I switch to bleach will it require more frequent tests and replenishing?

Yes. Daily testing for a week or two until you're familiar with your pool's appetite, when you can slack off some and just slosh in the usual amount. Daily feedings, just like a pet. Also be aware that without the acidity of the trichlor, you pH and TA will rise more and faster.

 

[Dirk]

Avoiding daily testing and dosing is the primary reason many of us here switched to a salt water pool and a salt water chlorine generator system (SWG). I test once a week and buy, lug and dose with liquid chlorine for only a couple months a year (when the water is too cold for an SWG). Not as common are acid dosing systems (more common with gunite pools). I have both. Between the two, my weekly maintenance takes only about 10 minutes for most of the year (mostly just testing the water to make sure the auto-dosing is working as it should). Talk about a trouble-free pool! The equipment required for an SWG pool costs about the same as the chlorine you have to buy for a non-SWG pool, minus all the extra work...