Tadpoles, Frogs and Algae... OH MY! - Help me!!

[jessicacope]

**Skip to 2nd paragraph for the bones of the problem.**
Ok. I'm a new pool owner. Just as a point of reference, it's a Coleman 22'x52" with the standard pump that comes on it (junk). So, the pool was running fine but we went on vacation for a week, were back a day and gone again for another week. When I got back the first day, the pool had turned a neon green. I shocked it and ran the filter, but didn't have time to do anymore. When I got back the second time, it was super bad. We had frogs and tadpoles, it was the most disgusting mess I've ever seen. I had no choice but to leave the filter off while I was gone bc if the intake had gotten clogged while I was gone, it could have blown the pump altogether. I went through the worst of getting started and it's taken a week to get this where it is now.

I finally got the water blue and where you could see the bottom. Last night, my husband and I finished vacuuming out the worst of the algae that was left. We changed the filter out and the HTH test I did said the last that I lacked was a shock and the CYA. So, I added 4 lbs of CYA and did the clorox shock (63% Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione). I woke up this morning and the pool is blue, but it's so cloudy you can't even see the bottom. I did the HTH 6 tab test again and it shows all the levels are in good range except for the CYA and says to add 4 pounds... This can't be right, can it??? I wish someone could help me figure it out bc I am so frustrated!

Thanks,
The noob pool owner

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

How did you add the CYA powder? Depending on how you added it to the pool it may take up to a week to show up in testing.

Do not use Dichlor. Use Liquid Chlorine. You need to SLAM Process. Read the article. You must have a FAS-DPD test for FC to SLAM. You do not have one.

You could just order a FAS-DPD test but for a few dollars more you can get a proper complete test kit.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

 

[jessicacope]

Thanks a lot, mknauss! I appreciate the reply! Stupidly, I added the CYA granules straight to the pool. There weren't very clear directions on the container, it did stay to stir good for about 15 minutes. My husband and I did that, but I went back today and tried vacuuming just to make sure there wasn't anymore algae or debris on the bottom of the pool since I couldn't see it clearly and when I pulled the vacuum up, I could see a few granules... so overnight they were just sitting there and now I'm worried I've faded my liner in spots. :\

That TF100 test kit looks extremely intimidating; however, I'm going to check it out! Let me ask you one question, since all of my other levels were in check ( FC 3, pH 7.5, TA 80 & TH 400 according to my 6 way test) and my CYA was the only one still off (could be bc it's still dissolving and you said it could take up to a week possibly), what would you suggest to clear the water up in the meanwhile? It's a really pretty blue color, and when I vacuumed today there was still some dead algae that I got up and may be a bit more but I can't see the bottom to know for sure! Best advice until I get the other test and the CYA finishes dissolving?

PS - probably not helping anything since it's been raining all day today either!

 

[mknauss]

As I posted above, you need to SLAM Process. Read the article. You must have a FAS-DPD test for FC to SLAM.

- - - Updated - - -

Most of the CYA you added was vacuumed up. If it is now stuck in the filter, it should dissolve eventually, but most likely not all of it.

I would suggest adding 5 ppm worth of liquid chlorine to your pool each evening until you receive your test kit. Use Pool Math to determine the volumes you need.

 

[jessicacope]

Ok. Will do that and thanks. I saw the SLAM you posted and will follow that as well. Pool upkeep is more than I realized to begin with and I'm a little overwhelmed. You've been a huge help. Thanks so much!

 

[niteshift38]

Hello and welcome !!! Don't be overwhelmed . I admit all of this is intimidating at first, but after a short period, it becomes rather routine (almost to the boring level ... LOL). The experts on here will walk you through the intimidating parts thoroughly and easily!!!

As far as vacuuming up your CYA, as mknauss stated, it is in your filter UNLESS you backwashed it! If that's the case, then it is most likely gone .

I would advise documenting everything you test or add (dates, times, amts, etc.) and reading as much as you can in Pool School (several times even). Once you complete your first SLAM, and after a couple of weeks with the proper test kit you will get a feel for what your pool needs. (usually only chlorine and an occasional dose of MA for PH)

P.S. I just added CYA my very first time to my filter basket before finding the "sock method", but luckily didn't backwash my filter. Took over a week to show up in my testing (even with a proper kit)!

 

[getreal720]

You are in good hands with the people offering advice! Soon that pool will be clear, and you'll be much more comfortable with taking care of the pool.

Those test strips are like random number generators, the results they give are sorta "throw away". The test kits recommended give much more accurate and reliable results. The TF-100 kit may seem a bit intimidating at first, but before long you will be blowing through a full suite of the tests in 10 min or so. It almost becomes automatic after a while, and your normally don't need to run anything other than the FC / CC test after you get the water to a good point.

It's a bit unfortunate that the instructions on the powdered CYA weren't that good. If your going to add CYA powder, it's usually best to put it into an old sock and tie it up so that it hangs directly over the water return jet in the pool. When I do this, I hang it close, but not directly over the return jet. At least once a day I'll "massage" the sock a bit to release a decent portion of the CYA powder. The return jet does a good job of circulating it into the water instead of it just settling to the bottom.

How much CYA powder you need to add depends on how much water you have in your pool, and which CYA target you are aiming for.

I personally kept mine close to 20-30 last season (my first season with my own pool). This year I've bumped it up closer to 40 and may work my way closer to 50. In my case, this is because I experience a loss of about 1/3 to 1/2 the water in my pool between closing it down and opening it the following season. Water is forced out of the pool via rain, snow and ice collecting on top of my winter cover. That water isn't clean, so I don't allow it into the pool when I remove the cover. The end result is me replacing a fair portion of the water until I can solve the issue of water being displaced up over the edge.

Not that any of that mattered to you but the short of it is, you want at least 20 ppm CYA for your pool.... probably closer to 30 just for margin of error. If you have a salt water generator, then you'll want around 70ppm CYA.

As long as you are reading a level of CYA in the pool, I'd give it a week or so to allow any CYA powder already in the pool to dissolve. Some of it may be in the filter. I wouldn't add any more CYA until then.