Thank you
My wife wanted the pool, I am not much of a pool person, the water is just too wet. But I like taking care of it, so it’s a win win situation.
Home Depot does not have much of the pool stuff
TA Readings extremely high
- Thread starter pczurak
- Start date
Thank you
My wife wanted the pool, I am not much of a pool person, the water is just too wet. But I like taking care of it, so it’s a win win situation.
Home Depot does not have much of the pool stuff
Here's my test from this morning.
What would be the advice, should I just follow the PoolMath suggestions?
This is kind of like learning how to drive a car, I know how to steer but I don't know how much to turn the steering wheel to make that corner.
Cl =1
pH = 7.6
FC = 1.5
PoolMatch -
Target 6
Using Bleach 10%, 128oz
Add 75 oz or 2 quarts, 1 cup 3oz
CC = 0
CH = 250
PoolMatch-
Target 350
Calcium Chloride
Add 12 Lbs. (I don't have any on hand yet)
TA = 200
PoolMatch-
Reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH.
What do they mean by "aerate"? Does that mean run your pump?
CYA = 80
Drain some water.
Salt = 400 - salt has not been added yet, probably will be added this week.
What would be the advice, should I just follow the PoolMath suggestions?
This is kind of like learning how to drive a car, I know how to steer but I don't know how much to turn the steering wheel to make that corner.
Cl =1
pH = 7.6
FC = 1.5
PoolMatch -
Target 6
Using Bleach 10%, 128oz
Add 75 oz or 2 quarts, 1 cup 3oz
CC = 0
CH = 250
PoolMatch-
Target 350
Calcium Chloride
Add 12 Lbs. (I don't have any on hand yet)
TA = 200
PoolMatch-
Reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH.
What do they mean by "aerate"? Does that mean run your pump?
CYA = 80
Drain some water.
Salt = 400 - salt has not been added yet, probably will be added this week.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,966
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
C - Add chlorine asap.
CH - 250 is fine, do nothing
TA - Aerate means agitate the water. If you have a water feature like a sheer descent or waterfall, run it. This is a long process (months).
CYA - CYA of 80 is fine. Make sure you use the appropriate amount of chlorine for a CYA of 80. Do not let it get any higher though (don't add any CYA or any chlorine tablets)
Salt - Add appropriate amount and turn on your SWG
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,027
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
You only need to do the PH in the first one, no need to also do chlorine as you use the FAS DPD to get FC and it is way more accurate..
With CYA at 80 You should never be getting to FC 1, the lowest you should ever get is FC 6 and target 9 to 11 FC daily.. FC/CYA Levels Depending on how cold your water is you may already have algae growing.. This is only while you are adding chlorine manually, once you turn on your SWG you will target 6 FC (I do 7 just to be safe)
With CYA at 80 You should never be getting to FC 1, the lowest you should ever get is FC 6 and target 9 to 11 FC daily.. FC/CYA Levels Depending on how cold your water is you may already have algae growing.. This is only while you are adding chlorine manually, once you turn on your SWG you will target 6 FC (I do 7 just to be safe)
You only need to do the PH in the first one, no need to also do chlorine as you use the FAS DPD to get FC and it is way more accurate..
With CYA at 80 You should never be getting to FC 1, the lowest you should ever get is FC 6 and target 9 to 11 FC daily.. FC/CYA Levels Depending on how cold your water is you may already have algae growing.. This is only while you are adding chlorine manually, once you turn on your SWG you will target 6 FC (I do 7 just to be safe)
This is great, thanks for the tip and advice!
The water is very clear I don't see any algae (I don't know if that means there isn't any), the water temperature is at 52 degrees.
I am waiting for the pool company to tell me when they are coming with the salt so I can turn up the heat - (the first opening was included with the pool). Suppose to be this week,
I have taken 3 readings so far since the pool has been opened and me trying to get the chemicals right.
1st FC was 1 and CYA 0
2nd FC 2 and CYA 40
3rd FC 1.5 and CYA 80
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,027
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
With 52 degree water you are good to go and probably only need FC of 7 or so, just keep an eye on it.. Hopefully the pool company will not do anything, they are usually the ones that screw everything up.. Ask them specifically what they are going to put in the pool and why.. Anything other than salt that is, actually ask what kind of salt, there are some (Clorox brand salt) and some with additives (yellow bag) that have iron in them and you do not want that type in your pool.. cheapest is usually Lowes salt for water softeners https://www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-Crystal-40-lb-Salt-Solar-Crystals/50107190
No green to clear or any other crazzy stuff...
No green to clear or any other crazzy stuff...
I will make sure of that.
They are not under a contract and the salt is part of the pool price, they are not getting paid any extra so I don't think they are going to do anything but add salt and say "you are good and by the way, we have a weekly maintenance program". But I am enjoying this so I will pass on the program.
Besides, every piece of advice I have received on this website has been right on, besides myself of course.
Thank You!
They are not under a contract and the salt is part of the pool price, they are not getting paid any extra so I don't think they are going to do anything but add salt and say "you are good and by the way, we have a weekly maintenance program". But I am enjoying this so I will pass on the program.
Besides, every piece of advice I have received on this website has been right on, besides myself of course.
Thank You!
DeanP66
0
If you don't have a waterfall or any other water features, you can make your own aerator like I did. You can get the parts from Home Depot for under $20. Originally, I attached mine to my pressure side wall port (Polaris) and would run the booster pump.
When I got a robot, I got rid of the Polaris and the booster pump, so I bought a submersible pump from Amazon for around $50 and attached the aerator to that instead. Still works great.
When I got a robot, I got rid of the Polaris and the booster pump, so I bought a submersible pump from Amazon for around $50 and attached the aerator to that instead. Still works great.
What's the best way to correct these numbers?
Here are my readings 1 week after adding salt and using the pool a couple of times.
Cl -3 - Chlorinator says salt is good. PoolMatch says to add 1 quart, 1oz of chlorine.
pH = > 8.2 - PoolMath says add 3 quarts, 3 cups
FC = 2.5
CC = 1
CH = 275 - PoolMath says add 21 Lbs
TA = 240 - PoolMath says reduce pH (last week I did bring the pH to 7.5)
CYA = 70 - PoolMath says add 8.7 oz
Water Temp = 88
Thank You!
Here are my readings 1 week after adding salt and using the pool a couple of times.
Cl -3 - Chlorinator says salt is good. PoolMatch says to add 1 quart, 1oz of chlorine.
pH = > 8.2 - PoolMath says add 3 quarts, 3 cups
FC = 2.5
CC = 1
CH = 275 - PoolMath says add 21 Lbs
TA = 240 - PoolMath says reduce pH (last week I did bring the pH to 7.5)
CYA = 70 - PoolMath says add 8.7 oz
Water Temp = 88
Thank You!
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,966
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Cl/FC -3 - Too Low! See Chlorine/CYA chart. A good rule of thumb is keep chlorine at 10% of CYA.
pH = > 8.2 Add acid!
FC = 2.5 see above
CC = 1 leave pool cover off for awhile
CH = 275 - This is fine, do nothing
TA = 240 - Reduce pH to 7.2 and aerate. This is a long process. (weeks)
CYA = 70 - This is fine, do nothing
Water Temp = 88 - toasty!
Thank You so much!!!
PoolMath is great, but nothing beats someone with experience giving you advice.
Should I add chlorine as the PoolMath says - or something with SWG?
(Going to Menards to get more acid)
PoolMath is great, but nothing beats someone with experience giving you advice.
Should I add chlorine as the PoolMath says - or something with SWG?
(Going to Menards to get more acid)
SWG is good for maintaining chlorine, but too slow to bring it up to where it should be. You'll need to dose with liquid chlorine to bring it up to target, and also increase chlorine output via the generator to maintain it at that level. That means turning your percentage up and/or turning up the run time. Then tomorrow, you will test chlorine again. If it's below target, dose with liquid and increase generator by another notch.
You need to test chlorine daily. pH gets tested twice a week to start (you may drop to every 5 or 7 days once you get comfortable with knowing what your pool will do). TA, CH, and CYA won't change quickly unless you do something to force that change (add chemicals), so they can be tested monthly.
As for lowering your TA, it's up to you. Any source of aeration will accelerate how quickly your high TA pulls up your pH - waterfalls, kids splashing, anything. You can force your TA to come down quicker by intentionally aerating, which will raise the pH. Then you add acid which drops both pH and TA. Or, you can ignore your TA and let it ride. Personally, I just let it ride. Why rush the process so you can add more acid faster? More expense and more risk.
What's your CSI? Turn that on in the pool settings in Pool Math if you don't see it. You want to see yours staying mostly within -0.3 to 0, with occasional excursions to -0.6 to 0.6 being okay. This minimizes the risk of scale buildup in your SWG, protects your plaster from etching, and prevents scaling at the water line.
You need to test chlorine daily. pH gets tested twice a week to start (you may drop to every 5 or 7 days once you get comfortable with knowing what your pool will do). TA, CH, and CYA won't change quickly unless you do something to force that change (add chemicals), so they can be tested monthly.
As for lowering your TA, it's up to you. Any source of aeration will accelerate how quickly your high TA pulls up your pH - waterfalls, kids splashing, anything. You can force your TA to come down quicker by intentionally aerating, which will raise the pH. Then you add acid which drops both pH and TA. Or, you can ignore your TA and let it ride. Personally, I just let it ride. Why rush the process so you can add more acid faster? More expense and more risk.
What's your CSI? Turn that on in the pool settings in Pool Math if you don't see it. You want to see yours staying mostly within -0.3 to 0, with occasional excursions to -0.6 to 0.6 being okay. This minimizes the risk of scale buildup in your SWG, protects your plaster from etching, and prevents scaling at the water line.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,077
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Get your FC up. If you have liquid chlorine then out it in. If you don’t then use Super Chlorinate on your SWG and run your pump for 24 hours.
DeanP66
0
Even if you lower your pH down to 7.6, with all your other numbers your CSI would still be a little high (over .30). I would work on your TA. Drop your pH aggressively to 6.8 or 7.0 and aerate, aerate , aerate. It will come down quickly. Every gallon of muriatic acid will drop your TA about 20 -30ppm. A contraption like mine above will bring up the pH and once it gets to 7.4 to 7.6, add more muriatic acid to lower it again. I'd take the TA down to at least 100 and that will make your CSI slightly negative which is where you want it. Don't mess with the CH. That will go up on its own over time as you add water to the pool from evaporation. No need to speed up the process.