TA Readings extremely high

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I will be rechecking my pool chemistry before I add any chemicals today because it will be at least 24hrs since I checked it and I did not add any chemicals and it was the first time I used the TF-100 test kit. And I am a rookie at this and I was having fun. So hopefully people will still be willing to help me with the new numbers.
Thanks, everyone! I really appreciate all the help.
 
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cowboycasey said:
using poolmath put 8.2 PH in current and 7.2 in target and add that much muriatic acid... You will do this a lot with your High TA but the TA will eventually come down..

Add enough CYA to bring your pool to 30 using poolmath

put 2.0 FC in current and 5 in target and add that much liquid chlorine..

repeat the next day :)

Salt, test your water and see if you have any salt now... do the same using poolmath for salt... what salt content does your SWG need?

Say 3500 put whatever comes up when you test in current and 3000 in target add that much, swirl around in pool and run pump for 24 hours... test salt again to see where you are at, if at 3000 perfect add the next 500 ppm.. if lower or higher adjust how much you add...
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I have not added anything yet and I will re-test everything today, but in the PoolMatch if I put 2.0 FC for the current and 5 in the target I get 8 Gallons of Bleach. Does that seem to be correct? That's how much they put in to start the pool plus I added 2 more gallons last week because it was low using the Rainbow test kit - before I got the TF-100.
 
mknauss said:
No. Check the pool volume you have entered. Also the bleach % concentration.
You would need 50 ounces of 10% bleach added to a 13000 gallon pool to raise the FC by 3 ppm.
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Thank You! I had 0.5% for the bleach concentration. Once I changed it to 10% the numbers changed to 50 oz or 1 quart, 2 cups, 2 oz. - Much better.
If it wasn't for this website I would have no skin left after the first dip.
 
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pczurak said:
Thanks, I have to pick up some chlorine anyway so I will get the right stuff.
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Get this. It’s the 31.45% and only $5 per gallon. It’s in the paint area.

Sunnyside® Muriatic Acid - 1 gal. at Menards
https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444444212919.htm

Menards also has fresh 12% liquid chlorine for $3.99/gallon in the front pool/seasonal section.

All with an 11% rebate, of course.
 
Clorine = Cl -0.5 Br - 1
pH = > 8.2

FC = 1.0
CC = 0.5
CH = 250
TA = 250
CYA = 0 - filled the tube all the way and still could see the dot.
Salt = 800 ppm

I did not put this through the PoolMath - but I will and I will compare the results of the advice I will receive just to see if I am doing it the correct way.

How should I proceed to fix this?
Thank You
 
pczurak said:
Clorine = Cl -0.5 Br - 1
pH = > 8.2

FC = 1.0
CC = 0.5
CH = 250
TA = 250
CYA = 0 - filled the tube all the way and still could see the dot.
Salt = 800 ppm

I did not put this through the PoolMath - but I will and I will compare the results of the advice I will receive just to see if I am doing it the correct way.

How should I proceed to fix this?
Thank You
Click to expand...

Don't test CYA until you add some. It only gets in the water if you add it. And you need it asap. I buy from the below.

www.ebay.com

Rx Clear Pool Water Balancer - 25lbs for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rx Clear Pool Water Balancer - 25lbs at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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A couple tips:

Once you get some CYA in the water, you’ll want to increase your FC to follow the FC/CYA Levels. The CYA protects the chlorine from the sun but it also holds some in “reserve” lowering the effective/active concentration.

Also note that you don’t have Bromine (Br) in your water, unless you added it. And you don’t want to add it. That test gives you the Chlorine (Cl) or Bromine reading (Br), but it’s a one or the other. So for your purpose it’s the Cl number you care about.

Once you get the hang of things, you’ll use that Cl block test as basically a quick check that you have some Chlorine in the water. For accuracy stick with the FAS-DPD (powder/drop) chlorine test.

Have another read through ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry now that you’re starting to get the hang of things; it might start to make a little more sense. :)
 
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magiteck said:
A couple tips:

Once you get some CYA in the water, you’ll want to increase your FC to follow the FC/CYA Levels. The CYA protects the chlorine from the sun but it also holds some in “reserve” lowering the effective/active concentration.

Also note that you don’t have Bromine (Br) in your water, unless you added it. And you don’t want to add it. That test gives you the Chlorine (Cl) or Bromine reading (Br), but it’s a one or the other. So for your purpose it’s the Cl number you care about.

Once you get the hang of things, you’ll use that Cl block test as basically a quick check that you have some Chlorine in the water. For accuracy stick with the FAS-DPD (powder/drop) chlorine test.

Have another read through ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry now that you’re starting to get the hang of things; it might start to make a little more sense. :)
Click to expand...
Thank you so much
This helps A LOT
 
IceShadow said:
Welcome fellow Wisconsinite!
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This website is just amazing!
I am 58 years old and I have been in tech all of my life, but I have never seen website like this. You get your answer within several minutes where one day would be just amazing. I am newbie and ask a lot of stupid questions and no one ever hinted of putting me down, just the opposite every one is trying to get me to get the pool working just right as if they are going to swim in it. Well you are welcome come and enjoy it at any time. But I know better why would you when you have one of your own that’s setup just right.
But Thank You anyway!

If I have a bunch of people at my door with their swimsuits on next week I will know why!
 
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I see you’re already taken care of, but just saying hi as a fellow Wisconsinite. My parents were both from the Neenah/Menasha area, though I was born in Minnesota and lived most of my life in Illinois before I made my way to Wisconsin.

I too buy my acid and chlorine from Menards. Why pay more for the diluted acid from Home Depot?
 
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