Switch to SWG?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Pretty sure somebody makes a fitting that slips into the broken piece (if its intact like yours) and then expands back to whatever size. But Shhhhhhhhh. None of that matters now. Yours looks so much cleaner this way. It would bother you forever the other way.
 
Here's another tip for ya. The PVC pipe most often used on pool plumbing is not rated to be above ground, because it can't handle prolonged exposure to UV. The PVC gets brittle, and that probably explains why yours cracked like that. The solution that most installers use, which is recommended by PVC manufacturers, is to paint the PVC with some sort of latex-based paint (specifically not oil-based). Lighter colors are better, because darker colors transfer more heat to the PVC. The more coats the better. Give all your PVC a new coat or two, whether it was painted before or not, and that will extend its longevity. Then redo all the markings and labels, because you or the next owner will need them someday.

Good job on the installation and the repair. No worries about the 2-1/2" coupler trick. I learned just about everything I know about pools right after I needed to know it! Whaddayagonnado...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rancho Cost-a-Lotta and Newdude
So, after testing current salt level, I estimate the size of my pool in gallons, then go to the tables that are commonly available for how much salt to add to get to 3200 ppm, then get that amount, but maybe only add half and then retest? Avoids going over ... better to ease up to the 3200 ppm? Leave pump on ... does it need to be on high speed?

Once I'm at 3200 ppm, ensure the ProLogic system is programmed for that and the T-9, then plug both the flow switch and the main cell cable in, and light it off?
 
Not quite. Don't forget to account for the existing salt when you calculate what you need. I think that's what you meant, but just sayin' it out loud. I like to pour the salt into one small pile in the shallow end, as opposed to broadcasting it around the pool. Then I quickly sweep at it to dissolve it. I just keep trying to sweep it into the same pile, until it's gone. Much less work than trying to sweep all over the pool.

Then you wait. Some say a day or two. I say the longer the better. I wait a week after adding salt. What's the hurry? It's not even spring yet. The salt has to fully dissolve, then get mixed in evenly throughout the pool. You don't want to turn on the SWG until that happens. Medium speed on the pump is fine. Maybe brush the bottom over the next few days just to play it safe. Then turn on the SWG.

And yes, better to ease up to the correct salt level. But keep in mind, every time you add a bag, you should repeat the dissolving/waiting process.
 
stephenson said:
then go to the tables that are commonly available for how much salt to add
Click to expand...
Poolmath baby, poolmath. In the settings you activate 'track salt' and then it comes up as a regular test parameter.
stephenson said:
but maybe only add half and then retest
Click to expand...
Get your baseline and then shoot for 80%. Each add gets a full 24 hours to mix. Ease up in halves from there. As in, if you are 400 short, add 200.
stephenson said:
Leave pump on ... does it need to be on high speed?
Click to expand...
Low is fine.
stephenson said:
Once I'm at 3200 ppm, ensure the ProLogic system is programmed for that and the T-9, then plug both the flow switch and the main cell cable in, and light it off
Click to expand...
(y)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Pump on high without leaks!!!!! Watched a couple of videos on how best to get a glued PVC pipe to release from a fitting - it seems like most effective method is to heat a hole saw/brass or stainless fitting that just fits into the pipe to be removed - with a torch - then slide screwdriver between the two pieces until you can get a pair of needle nose pliers between then roll the pliers one way until the inside, now soft piece of PVC, rolls off the inner wall of the fitting. This seems to prevent heating the fitting (valve in my case). Some of the videos are pretty miraculous - but, a torch and hole saw set are required - I had both, but had not seen the technique.

Initial results from 1766 test kit - one drop not much change and two drops DARK salmon color ... so, I'm thinking 300 ppm baseline. My guess at the pool is around 11,000 gallons so I used 12,000 with the intent to raise the salt ppm slowly.

Home Depot ... about $8/40 lb bag.

Put in 160 pounds to start - shallow end - thanks for the tip, Dirk - and pushed it around - and pump is on high. Will wait a day and report back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rancho Cost-a-Lotta and Newdude
The 1766 is a bit different than other Taylor tests, where you keep going and only stop when the color doesn't change any more. The salt test is kinda binary. As soon as you get that first blast of dark, you're done, and you don't keep going to see how dark it'll get. It sounds like you did it right, but that test tripped me up until I was taught to stop at the first drastic color change. Plus, the test will be more obvious when you get up in the 3K range. Towards the end, you'll see it flash dark when the drop goes in, then it'll fade back to pale. You might see that happen once or twice, then the next drop will be Boom!, dark. It's my favorite test now, because it's so obvious.

Sounds like you're on the right track with everything!
 
Last edited:
Left pump on for 16 hours and tested this morning - no salt apparent on the bottom with brushing.

Test showed an increase to 1600 ppm (8 drops) - I was expecting a bit more, so perhaps I've underestimated pool volume a bit. So, I added another 80 pounds.

I'm working on the (linear curve and without consideration of the pool size?) rough math: if 160 lbs moves the salinity from 300 to 1600 ppm (1300 increase) , an additional 160 lbs should move it to ~2900 ppm, right? And, 80 lbs to ~ 2250 ppm?

And, given the tables say 290 lbs is required to move from 300 ppm to 3200 ppm, 160 lbs/290 lbs should move the salinity by 55%, or 300+1595=1895 ppm, but it only moved from 300 to 1600 which is more like 81% of what it should have moved. Hmmm - 13,000 gallon should have moved 51%, or, 1479 ppm, 14,000 gallon should have moved 47%, or, 300+1363=1663, and 15,000 gallon should have moved 44%, or 300+1276= 1576.

So, my pool is likely between 14,000 and 15,000 gallons, or the curve for increase is not linear?

Will wait another 16-24 hours and retest.
 
stephenson said:
So, my pool is likely between 14,000 and 15,000 gallons, or the curve for increase is not linear?
Click to expand...
Correct. Be sure to wait several days with good mixing before relying on a salinity test result. Also, at best, the test is +/- 200 ppm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
@stephenson, you've caught on to the way to fine tune your water volume number. You can also do that with FC, and pH. If Pool Math directs you to put in X amount of chlorine to get Y level of FC, and then you retest FC after about 30 minutes of circulation and get the expected result, then your volume number is OK. If not, you adjust the volume number to fit. Same with pH and muriatic acid, salinity and salt. If you use FC for this experiment, you should do so after dark, so that the sun effect on the chlorine is minimized (and, of course, your pool must be free of algae or other organic stuff). pH and salt are less sensitive to those types of variables. Lather, rinse, repeat until you are getting good testing/dosing results.
 
Well, it was getting ready to rain, so just sampled, again - has been 24 hours since last test (1600 ppm and added 80 lbs), and 40 hours since first test (300 ppm and added 160 lbs) - so, over the last 40 hours have added a total of 240 lbs of salt.

Today's sample required 13 drops to salmon color - so, 2600 ppm, which is 400 ppm above what I was expecting. Causes could be related to same factor from different directions - that the previous sample of 1600 ppm was tested too quickly, and continued to dissolve, and/or the pool size that I calculated yesterday could be smaller since the first add of 160 lbs had not fully dissolved.

So, will not add today - will wait until tomorrow's test.

Working math a couple of ways, IF the test tomorrow shows the same 2600 ppm.
1. Table/Calculator - to increased from 2600 ppm to 3200 ppm - I would add 60 lbs for 12,000 gallons, or 70 lbs for 14,000 gallons, and 75 lbs for 15,000 gallons.
2. Per pound change - 240 lbs to date increased salinity by 2300 ppm = 9.6 ppm/lb, so a 40 lb bag (easiest is whole bags, obviously) should increase salinity by 384 ppm, so the total following a couple of days of mixing should be: 2600+384 = 2984. And two 40 lb bags should increase by 768 ppm, or 2600+768=3368 ppm

I'm thinking I will continue to ease up. If still 2600 tomorrow, I'll add one bag and wait a couple more days then test and decide.

Pool size ... hmmmm, based on first sample following add, I was thinking it was larger than 12,000 gallons, but now, following a greater than expected increase, perhaps it is closer to 12,000. Tomorrow's test should resolve this a bit more.

BTW, while the flow switch had teflon tape already wrapped on the threads out of the bag, it leaked a bit, so I removed and wrapped with a few more teflon wraps. Appears to be sealed, now.
 
Is the SWCG ready to power on? You might try it. Hayward systems should be kept in the lower range of salinity. So you may already have enough salt in the pool for it to work.
 
First time I've done this:
- set Chlorinator to Enabled
- set to 50%
- set Cell Type to T-CELL-9
- turned pump on and watched Flow Switch Flow delay start and then change to Flow Switch Flow
- Cell Temp Sensor 66°
- 28.16V, 3.94A, 66°, 2700 PPM then changed to 2600 PPM
- Instant Salt 2600 PPM

So, this confirms there is ~2600 PPM salt in pool water?

If I want to increase salt, I can add while the system is running without damaging anything?

Does the ProLogic system compute salt by measuring the amount of power across the grid at whatever percentage set?
 
Not necessarily. Not sure about your brand, but the salt sensor in mine is known to be pretty inaccurate. I don't think any are as accurate as the Taylor test. If yours align, then you lucked out. And I was taught here not to run my SWG until all the added salt is mixed in well: pump running for a few days (at least 24 hours) after adding any salt.
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply