SWG working? Hoping for some help.

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proavia said:
Put one probe on terminal 1 and one on terminal 3 - report voltage
Turn timer on
Put one probe on terminal 2 and one on terminal 4 - report voltage

If it reads 120v on those terminals - then it's wired for 120
If it reads 240v on those terminals - then it's wired for 240
Click to expand...
So..I can now assume that my timer is wired for 120v. How to fix?

Do I:
1) Buy a new timer. One for 120v. Call electrician to redo. Return 240v timer.
2) Crack open CircuPool Controller. Install jumpers for 120v.
3) Keep 240v timer, Controller already wired for 240v, but electrician has it hooked up to 120v. Call electrician and have him fix by hooking it all up to 240v. (I have no clue how this is done).
 
Are you into WiFi control at all? You could remove the timer mechanism from the box and use a Sonoff Basic R2 switch. You need a decent WiFi signal, but another member used one of these in a metal box and still gets good reception. Connection is real easy: two wires from 1 and 3 in and two wires from 2 and 4 out. You can schedule via the app, Alexa, Google Home etc. Here's my set up (you already have the box):

Low Budget DIY Automation

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Otherwise, you'll need the 120 volt version of the Intermatic timer mechanism.
 
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Corey,

It does not matter much if your SWCG runs off of 240 or 120 volts.

One of two things has to happen...

1. The timer must be replaced with a 120 volt timer, and the cell must be configured to run off of 120 volts.
2. The existing timer must be rewired for 240.

My gut says there is no 240 anywhere near the timer. If that is true, then least expensive thing to would be to replace the timer.

I'd ask your electrician which option is going to cost the least..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Are you into WiFi control at all? You could remove the timer mechanism from the box and use a Sonoff Basic R2 switch. You need a decent WiFi signal, but another member used one of these in a metal box and still gets good reception. Connection is real easy: two wires from 1 and 3 in and two wires from 2 and 4 out. You can schedule via the app, Alexa, Google Home etc. Here's my set up (you already have the box):

Low Budget DIY Automation

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Otherwise, you'll need the 120 volt version of the Intermatic timer mechanism.
Click to expand...
Not a bad idea. I’m sweating the lack of chlorine right now so I may look into that in the future so I can just get this done. Thanks man.
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
This is the 120 volt timer mechanism you would need. As Jim said, you may not have 240 available. I definitely wouldn't trust the electrician that wired your box.
Click to expand...
All right. I ran down to Home Depot and bought the 120v version of that timer. So I will call that electrician tomorrow and see what’s up.

I did also notice that the bonding lug on the control unit wasn’t used so that will be something I bring up as well. Installion instructions say that it should be hooked up to the pool bonding wire.

I’ll let you all know when i get in touch with this company. Thanks to everyone so far.
 
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If you use the 120v timer, you will need to install the jumpers in the SWG controller.

As for the bonding lug on the controller - it is supposed to have a #8AWG wire (I think that's the correct wire gauge) running from that bonding lug to the bonding grid. The connection can be made to the closest bonding wire using a copper split bolt similar to this one:

Your pump has a copper wire attached to the pump bonding lug, correct?
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Maintain FC level with liquid chlorine until you get your SWG up and running.
Click to expand...
Yea, that's what I'm doing. I had to startup with LC until the pool temp got above 65 degrees, and that's what I have been using in the past. I ran down to Menards and snagged another 7 gallons to hold me off. Thanks man.
 
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proavia said:
If you use the 120v timer, you will need to install the jumpers in the SWG controller.

As for the bonding lug on the controller - it is supposed to have a #8AWG wire (I think that's the correct wire gauge) running from that bonding lug to the bonding grid. The connection can be made to the closest bonding wire using a copper split bolt similar to this one:

Your pump has a copper wire attached to the pump bonding lug, correct?
Click to expand...
Correct. Pump is bonded and going into the ground. SWG controller is not bonded currently. I noticed that while I was working on this stuff.
 
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Called electric company. Owner is not pleased with what I described. Will be there Monday morning first thing (he offered right now, but I'm at work and can't get out of here until 6 at the earliest) to check it over and make sure it's all set up correctly and making chlorine. Will post outcome then.

Thanks again for all of the help and expertise!
 
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It's totally fine to run the SWG on 120v - which is the voltage you have to the timer box. You will just need to use the 120v timer (instead of the present 240v one) and use the jumpers in the SWG controller to convert it to 120v.
 
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proavia said:
It's totally fine to run the SWG on 120v - which is the voltage you have to the timer box. You will just need to use the 120v timer (instead of the present 240v one) and use the jumpers in the SWG controller to convert it to 120v.
Click to expand...
For sure. Just sounds like this guy didn't really know what he was doing, or at best, just decided to wing it rather than even look at the installation instructions that I left him.

As someone earlier posted, I'm betting it'll be way easier just to install the 120v timer that I just bought, return the 240v, and make sure the jumpers are correct in the controller rather than try to run 240v to it.
 
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Hey all. Here's the final update. Sorry for the delay. I took a quick 10 day jaunt to the Dominican Republic for a well-needed vacation, and then have been buried in work since I got back. Highly recommend the DR, if you ever looking into a vacation destination.

Electric Company sent out another journeyman who did confirm that the jumpers had not been changed. He cracked it open, changed the jumpers, changed out the 240v timer to the 120, and bonded it to the existing bonding system. Works like a champ, and I was able to vacation properly with no worries. Pool is hanging at 5ppm with pump running 24/7 and SWG at 25% right now.

Again, lot of thanks to give out to all of you for your efforts and advice. This forum is all the things.

Thanks again everyone!
 
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