SWG replacement questions

[razzy8]

Moved from here.

AFAIK, all Hayward swcg's are built with a 6 pin phone jack at the bottom. From the label it is a TROL-RJ-TL (Canadian). I can only assumed the original PCB was replaced with a TROL-HP model. To confirm the mainboard model, please run the diagnostic and post it here. Fyi, the Aquatrol uses a T-5 cell but you can use the larger T-15 cell by placing a jumper at J4 on the pcb.
Please take a gander at the below link for more info.

https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/aquatrol-owners-manual.pdf?fromCDN=true

I'm new to the forum and found this and other links related to my Hayward Aqua-trol controller.
I have the dreaded Aqua-Trol with T-cell-5 and the r.1.47 (circa 2019) version on the controller.
I only have a 10k gal pool.

It is time for me to replace my cell and I found out that a Hayward replacement cell is $599
I would like to replace it with a generic cell (still hunting on this) but the replacement cells are mostly all 9 or 15

I have seen the posts discussing placing a jumper at the J4 on the PCB
Can someone with more understanding explain why the J4 jumper works?

If I place the jumper...and use a generic t-15 cell
Will this allow a t-15 cell to function at very low "desired output %" on my dial since the cell will be overkill for my small pool?
Will I still get accurate readings on my display (since the PCB was calibrated for a t-cell-5?
Will this modifications cause extra strain on system as some stated or have these issues been sorted out with newer PCB?

Thanks for your help
-Razzy8

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have an Aquatrol HP or RJ system?

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Putting the jumper on J4 changes all the setting to work with a T-15 cell. All the readouts will be correct for a T-15 cell.

Using a T-15 cell should put less "strain" on your system since it will be on for chlorine generation less time.

 

[razzy8]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have an Aquatrol HP or RJ system?

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Putting the jumper on J4 changes all the setting to work with a T-15 cell. All the readouts will be correct for a T-15 cell.

Using a T-15 cell should put less "strain" on your system since it will be on for chlorine generation less time.

Hi ajw22,

Thanks for your reply.
I also noticed that you have posted many replied to others in an effort to help them solve their problems...THANKS!
I have a Hayward Goldline W3AQ-TROL-HP.
I was thinking it was a terrible system since I could only use it with the original T-5 cell which has very few generic replacements, and the Hayward replacement is $600
But now that I have learned that it can be modified to work with a T-15 cell...that's great news...maybe it's not such a terrible controller?

So next question, sorry for the newbie question...what's the easiest way to place the jumper?
I attached a picture of my board (minus the output control PCP that is on standoffs).
I have decent soldering skills but would be open to suggestions.
Also, has the thermister issue that I have read about on other threads been resolved on this version/PCB when using such a larger t-cell?

Finally, can anyone recommend at good generic T-15 cell they have had good luck with over the years ?

Thanks again all and especially to ajw22...it seems we don't get enough shout-outs these days for people that spend their time with the sole intent on helping other people!

-Razzy8

 

[ajw22]

But now that I have learned that it can be modified to work with a T-15 cell...that's great news...maybe it's not such a terrible controller?

The Aquatrol is designed as a lower cost controller for Above Ground Pools. It is simpler to install then an Aquarite system.

So next question, sorry for the newbie question...what's the easiest way to place the jumper?

I have not done it but I would use a solid piece of wire bent in a u. Hold it in place with needle nose pliers. Use a low power 15W-25W soldering iron with a bit of solder and lots of flux.

Also, has the thermister issue that I have read about on other threads been resolved on this version/PCB when using such a larger t-cell?

Run your salt level at the low end of the range for the cell - around 2800-3000. Higher salt levels draw more amps which overheat the thermistor.

Finally, can anyone recommend at good generic T-15 cell they have had good luck with over the years ?

From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

Some people have had good experiences and saved money by buying a rebuilt cell or a generic cell. Look for a company that rebuilds using high quality USA parts just like the original Hayward cell and specializes in rebuilding high quality electronics.

Members have had good experience with Salt Solutions T-15 cells[6] and the Chlorinator Pro CP-15 cell.

Be aware of the following issues buying the generic cells:

• The warranty is usually less then the OEM cell.
• The lifespan of generic cells are usually rated for less hours than the OEM cells, hence the shorter warranty times.
• To make a warranty claim you have to deal with shipping and all that goes with buying it online with a generic cell. With a OEM cell you can take it to an authorized dealer and they will replace it right then and there if it is a bad cell.

A member in the generic cell business warns about offshore companies "implying their cells are equal to the OEM but plates are only good for 3000 hours. (Because how would a buyer know...I've always had 7000 hr cells and Hayward is 10K). Misidentifying imported products to get around or reduce tariffs. Ordering one branded cell and receiving a different brand or even a different model and calling it a free upgrade. Offering ridiculous 5 or 7 year prorated warranties with no disclosure as to what the pro-rations are or that they are based upon some mythical MSRP. Unable to make a warranty claim because no one answers the phone, English is not their first language, or the warranty center is overseas. Their goal is to make you give up.

Thanks again all and especially to ajw22...it seems we don't get enough shout-outs these days for people that spend their time with the sole intent on helping other people!

Thanks for the kind words.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

 

[razzy8]

I have not done it but I would use a solid piece of wire bent in a u. Hold it in place with needle nose pliers. Use a low power 15W-25W soldering iron with a bit of solder and lots of flux.

Thanks ajw22 for the reply...that seems like a good way to do it...I saw that somewhere on a different post someone had posted a different method using some type of "cross bridge" or "pin header"...does anyone have any experience with this method?