This is my second year opening up my pool and I cannot seem to get my FC up. I have had the salt cell checked and it is fine. I have super chlorinated the pool and nothing! Please help!
SWG - Chlorine
- Thread starter robcar74
- Start date
Rob,
Just like at a trial, we need evidence to make any decision or even a guess as to what the problem is...
Like Don, I suspect you have algae, weather you can see it for not, and that is consuming all the chlorine your cell can make...
We need the following "evidence" readings....
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
How are you currently testing your pool water??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Just like at a trial, we need evidence to make any decision or even a guess as to what the problem is...
Like Don, I suspect you have algae, weather you can see it for not, and that is consuming all the chlorine your cell can make...
We need the following "evidence" readings....
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
How are you currently testing your pool water??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Here you go. I take my water to the pool store or I have a test kit TF100.
I am also getting yellow staining on my steps. The copper in my pool is 1.7. Would this cause the chlorine to stay low?
FC - .42
CC - 1.51
pH - 7.7
TA - 89
CH - 130
CYA - 118
Salt - 3100
I am also getting yellow staining on my steps. The copper in my pool is 1.7. Would this cause the chlorine to stay low?
FC - .42
CC - 1.51
pH - 7.7
TA - 89
CH - 130
CYA - 118
Salt - 3100
Use the TF-100 numbers please.
If the CYA is over 50 then the pool needs to be SLAMMED. We need to know an accurate CYA value before offering much more advice.
If the CYA is over 50 then the pool needs to be SLAMMED. We need to know an accurate CYA value before offering much more advice.
IF (and it's abig IF) the pool store test readings are close to correct I agree with the others, you have algae.
Give us the TF-110 numbers, but for CYA, 100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. do a 1:1 diluted test
While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. The problem is that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the rage of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.
Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by
....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5
Give us the TF-110 numbers, but for CYA, 100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. do a 1:1 diluted test
While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. The problem is that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the rage of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.
Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by
....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5
I have SLAMMED my pool twice and I get the same results. The chlorine goes up for a couple of hours and then back down again with the yellow brown stain returning. The only way I can get rid of the stain is by using Stain Free.
A SLAM Process is not a single addition of chlorine, but a process that can take days to weeks.
Have you followed the instructions point for point and completely finished a SLAM Process to the tested endpoint?
If the stains are going away with Stain Free you are probably dealing with metals. Stain Free is 100% Ascorbic Acid. It also creates a chlorine demand, so there is where your chlorine is probably going.
Check this out:
Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains
Yes, I have tried SLAM several times and the next morning I have stain on my steps that only come off when stain free is applied. I had my water tested and it does have copper.
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
Did you see the link in my last post? That is how you handle metal issues. Unless you change the water metals will always be with you and you need to do an AA treatment, and then follow up with a sequesterant that gets reapplied monthly.
Dumping in the Stain free releases the metals back into the water (and kills your chlorine), but unless you sequester the metals as soon as you start reapplying chlorine the metals will re-stain the pool.
Do you know where the copper came from?
Most common sources are a damaged heater, using algecides (most contain copper) and using a "mineral" system like Nature2
I have SLAMMED over night.
- - - Updated - - -
Yes, I understand that now. I am currently sequestering the metals now.
I believe the copper came from poolrx and algecide that contained the copper.
- - - Updated - - -
Yes, I understand that now. I am currently sequestering the metals now.
I believe the copper came from poolrx and algecide that contained the copper.
A SLAM does not end until you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) with these three criteria:
1) the water is perfectly clear
2) your CC measures .5 or less
3) your FC drops less than 1 ppm overnight
If you didn't conduct and pass these 3 tests, you did not perform a SLAM, you simply shocked your pool. The M in SLAM stands for Maintain, and you are missing that key piece. Any surviving algae can quickly bounce back from a shocking. It's keeping the FC at shock level for an extended period until ALL algae is dead that makes a SLAM effective.
Rob, please read the links that were provided to you regarding the SLAM process ... it is not what you think it is.
Also, we do not trust pool store testing, so no point in providing that. Just post your TF-100 test results.
- - - Updated - - -
Also note, with metals in the water and the need to SLAM, usually you need to complete the SLAM process to sanitize your pool and then you deal with the metal staining.
Also, we do not trust pool store testing, so no point in providing that. Just post your TF-100 test results.
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Also note, with metals in the water and the need to SLAM, usually you need to complete the SLAM process to sanitize your pool and then you deal with the metal staining.
I do not have any algae just high levels of copper. I have done the steps and now I am sequestering the pool.
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I have read the links and I have completed the SLAM and now I am dealing with the metal staining.
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I have read the links and I have completed the SLAM and now I am dealing with the metal staining.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,060
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
If it was me, given the copper and high level of CYA listed above, I would add the sequestering agent and then drain the pool. Refill using nice fresh water and use the TFP method of care.
I thought of that but I am hearing that draining a pool with vinyl can damage the vinyl.
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