Swamp thing

Wntrequinx

Well-known member
May 20, 2021
112
Hartford, CT
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I am not sure what problem to tackle first, I have a wildly messed up pool and I'm a newby.

Here is the long version of the story: So I purchased a new house in the fall, and the prior owners closed the pool before we moved in. The winter chlorine dispensers were incorrectly put in, so it went all winter with basically no chlorine.

We opened it last weekend and the water was crystal clear, but the whole bottom and sides were covered with algae. We had to add about 16 inches of water because it was so low.

I added algeacide (splash pools super 7 copper based - big mistake) and two gallons of shock. And let the filter run. It had 0 chlorine, so that brought it to 3 ish, and the pH was lower than 6.2, the TA was 0 and the CYA was 0 (supposedly).

The next day, I ran the filter like 6 hrs and the algae was still bright green and not moving from the bottom (the return was missing the ball so the water flow was mediocre and undirected), leaving the water completely clear, but the walls and floor horrible, so I started vacuuming. I got about 40% done and couldn't see enough to keep going, it was so cloudy and full of algae chunks. I added more algaecide (*sigh*), because I didn't yet understand i needed to use the chlorine to kill it.

There's also my having added 3lbs of DE because the prior owners had used it (even though I had asked the manufacturer about how much DE to use and they were like "THAT'S NOT A DE FILTER". I decided later this was a mistake and do not plan to ever do that again.

By the next day, (Monday) it was clear again, but the chlorine was back to 0 (only had a strip test at the time). I was more worried about the algae than anything else, so I vacuumed more after work, until the water got super cloudy and I let it run to filter that back out.

The next day after work (Tues), I took a sample to the pool store for the first time, and they came back telling me it needed 9lbs calcium, 10lbs alkalinity up, 2 lbs pH up, and 3lbs stabilizer. The pool store person was not helpful (just add it all of all these containers /does any of this need to be mixed with water? /Yes, the calcium). So I got home, added it all (only the amounts the computer said, not the extra pound of calcium and stabilizer the employee told me to use when he said to use it all).

I now know how that was SO wrong.

You'll notice i don't mention chlorine. I forgot it. In any case, the water turned a bit cloudy and I let it filter overnight-ish (I have been shutting it off for like 6 hrs because its got a small leak at the pump and I kept expecting it to jump in pressure from the volume of algae it was filtering).

At this point I started really reading up on things here on TFP, and had something of an idea on how I wanted to handle the chlorine when I got it balanced, and I knew I wanted to SLAM to kill the algae. I also ordered a Taylor K2006 and more strips and a replacement return jet.

The next day (Wed) I ran to the pool store in the morning, again with another water sample, and this time I could see behind the counter, where the kid (early 20s at best) was using test strips. I was super unhappy and left only buying 4 gal of shock and a second kind of test strips that actually had TC. According to the store, TA was supposedly 60, CYA 30, CH 200, FC/TC were both 0, and pH 6.9.

I added 2 more gal of shock (way too much...) and used my lunch break to vacuum the last major sections that hadn't been done yet, which again made the water super cloudy with algae bits. The new return jet arrived and I put that on, which meant I could finally direct the flow to better circulate the water. About an hour later I noticed the pressure had jumped up to over 15 (start was almost 6, put DE in at almost 7 which put it to 8.5, it stayed below 10 since Sunday). After work I cleaned it with the hose and it returned to 5lbs. I then did another extra once over vacuuming to the spots the looked like they might still have stuff, and then i used a brush (the water temp was still low 60's then) on the pole to go over the edges and the lower portion of the walls. About 7 hours later I checked the pressure one last time before bed (was going to let it run over night), but it had gone back to 15, so I shut it off.

First thing this morning I cleaned the cartridge again, and put it back and it went right back to 15. As thats not too high, I decided to live with it, and wait for it to got up another 10 from there before cleaning, and let the filter run all day11. I concluded the cartridge is bad, but I've started wondering if it's the better return jet (I'll have to test that).

I pointed the jet up today to aerate the water some, because the pH was still low, and then after work today I took a sample to a different store and they gave me new numbers:
FC - 13
TC - 14.61
pH - 7.2
TA - 3 (just three, not a typo)
CH - 174
CYA - 103 (!!!)
Iron - 0
Copper - 0.6
Phosphates - 0
TDS - 600

I refused purchasing the Metal Magic until I researched it more. I left without buying anything, as I said I had Alkalinity up and pH Up leftover, but really I had ordered baking soda and soda ash from target/lowes and went and picked them up.

Tonight I added 10lbs of baking soda (of the 18lbs they told me to add), and an inch of tap water. It's several hours later and the strips are saying the TA ... I think 180 now. Or 120. Not sure.

In any case, I'm finally at the question as to why I'm here.

Tomorrow the K2006 test kit should get here.

What should I test first/try to resolve first?

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum!
First thing is to drain down to 18" of water left in the pool and refill. The Copper level is too high (that is one number we will believe from a pool store). Once refilled, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening until the kit arrives and you can run a full suite of tests.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
I'm reluctant to drain it that much because its not in the greatest shape, and I'm wondering if it's just going to reveal issues with the liner, which has huge wrinkles in it, and needs to be replaced. Is it safe to drain it that much with a questionable liner? Any considerations I should be aware of?
 
You have to assess that. You can drain down 12" at a time and refill, but will need to do that at least 4 times to get the copper level down. More water, but if water is cheap, then it would be safer for the liner.

If the liner is in poor shape, and you do not care about liner stains and no one with blonde hair swims in the pool, you can leave the copper. It will stain liner. It might turn fingernails green too, so be forewarned.
 
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I plan on replacing the liner next year, if we like having a pool. If not, we'll tear the whole thing down anyway.

Should I get the Jack's magic blue stuff to sequester it? Will that reduce the chances of turning hair green?
 
Sequestrant will keep the copper tied up. But it is a constant use product. Up to you.
 

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Started it draining, is there anything I should keep an eye out for as a warning sign of problems with the liner?
Shifting of the liner is real risk. If the liner is old and brittle (typically from low pH caused by the heavy use of trichlor) it can also tear.
 
Here’s something I can confirm. If you have copper issues, and don’t feel like dealing with emptying and refilling the pool, buy chelating shampoo or shampoo for well water use and use it after bathing. Let sit in hair for at least two minutes. Follow with an apple cider vinegar or lemon juice rinse and then condition your hair. You can add a teaspoon or two of coconut oil to your hair before getting in the pool to help coat your locks. I’ve had various shades of blonde hair all my life. I know the tricks. Any one of these will help minimize green hair. Using all these will ensure blondes stay blonde. Plus, it’s fantastic for your locks.
 
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