Suggestions to tweak our chemistry?

twinkiesmommy2009

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Aug 12, 2015
1,679
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#1
These are yesterday's test results. Any suggestions to improve it?

pH: 7.6
TA: 125 (working on bringing it down)
CH: 325
FC: 6.2
CC:0
CYA: 70-80
Salt: 3300
Temp: 66
CSI:-0.12




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twinkiesmommy2009

twinkiesmommy2009

Well-known member
Aug 12, 2015
1,679
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#4
Looks fine to me.

What's your acid demand like? How much do you add and how often?


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Yep, good numbers!
Thanks! It's been pretty easy so it always makes me think maybe we're off somewhere. Lol

Acid demand is a lot better than it was the first few months. We probably add about a quart of MA every week - sometimes more or less. I can check the spreadsheet to get a true average later.

Had a few minor issues with the FC dropping too low but I figured it was a combination of low salt and cooler back and forth weather on the SWG because it was maintaining great with levels around 7 at just 18% for several months. Then started dropping until it was barely maintaining 3-4.. For now we're just adding a little liquid as we got the salt level up. It's better now so we'll see how it does this week without any liquid chlorine added.

How often do we need to clean the IC-60? I mentioned what looks like a slow drip from the pipe going into it (only in spa mode) to my PB and she asked me when we'd cleaned it. Didn't know I was supposed to. She told me the instructions were on my flash drive- which I didn't get... lol. She's supposed to get it for me but any thoughts?


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pooldv

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Aug 10, 2012
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#5
I haven't ever cleaned my IC-40, starting season 6 now. Keeping your CSI slightly negative will prevent scale build up in the SWG. You can inspect it each spring to see if there is scale present.
 

JoyfulNoise

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May 23, 2015
14,667
Tucson, AZ
#7
You adjusted salt? Why? Did you measure the salt using a K-1766 test kit? What is the true salt level?

SWGs, especially Pentair ICs always show lower salt as the water temps drop and they stop producing chlorine below 56F. Once your water drops to 60F, it's just better to turn off the SWG and manually chlorinate.

As for cleaner - never need to if the water is balanced. I haven't needed to clean mine in years.

I'm going to suggest something now that will likely cause you consternation or to raise an eyebrow - you need to not listen to your PB anymore and, unless it's a warranty call on something, I'd just ignore what they say. PBs know how to dig a hole in the ground, add pipes, concrete and tile and call it a pool. Beyond that, they typically know next to nothing about how to properly run a pool.

If you have questions, ask then here. You will get straight answers.


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pooldv

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Aug 10, 2012
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#8
There is an o-ring in each union on the SWG cell. Use some silicone lube, aka plumber's grease, on them and they should seal up.
 

JoyfulNoise

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May 23, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
#9
The drip could just be a loose coupling or a cracked o-ring in the coupling. They are only hand tight, easy to remove and check.


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twinkiesmommy2009

twinkiesmommy2009

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Aug 12, 2015
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#10
You adjusted salt? Why? Did you measure the salt using a K-1766 test kit? What is the true salt level?

SWGs, especially Pentair ICs always show lower salt as the water temps drop and they stop producing chlorine below 56F. Once your water drops to 60F, it's just better to turn off the SWG and manually chlorinate.

As for cleaner - never need to if the water is balanced. I haven't needed to clean mine in years.

I'm going to suggest something now that will likely cause you consternation or to raise an eyebrow - you need to not listen to your PB anymore and, unless it's a warranty call on something, I'd just ignore what they say. PBs know how to dig a hole in the ground, add pipes, concrete and tile and call it a pool. Beyond that, they typically know next to nothing about how to properly run a pool.

If you have questions, ask then here. You will get straight answers.


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The IC60 had it's red light on indicating low salt so we tested using the salt test kit. It showed within 100 ppm of what the IC60 was registering (2550)so we went ahead and added according to pool math. I haven't re-tested since we added because the IC60 is registering green and shows the levels varying between 3000 and 3600. Today it says 3150. So long as the level shows Green I figure we don't need to check it with the test?

Lol. No consternation or raised brows here! I already know to ask you guys! The only reason I asked my PB was because we already have a few little warranty items and it was more in case it was a leak. Still need to check for that... unless dripping in spa mode is typical?


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JoyfulNoise

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May 23, 2015
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Tucson, AZ
#11
Ok. Salt should optimally be 3600ppm. A little lower than that, 3200ppm is ok too. Salt will always increase over time unless splash out and rain overflow is significant.

Dripping is not normal. It's probably showing up in spa mode because of the higher pressure. It's likely just a loose coupling or dry o-ring. Try Danny's suggestion. If that doesn't solve it, replace the o-rings; they can be found at any hardware store that sells PVC piping and accessories.


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twinkiesmommy2009

twinkiesmommy2009

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Aug 12, 2015
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#12
Okay, I'll check that out. I probably need to turn my auto fill off and see if I'm having any water loss issues. I'd lowered it down from the PB's initial setting and found my water level too low so PB had told me to put the auto fill back up. If my salt dropped that much and it shouldn't have then it makes me wonder if the auto fill is hiding some water loss. Looks like we have a few things to check!

FYI - PB just finished the punch list and got their final check a week ago. If anything needs replacing - even as cheap and simple as an o-ring, I intend to ask the PB for it.


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