Sub panel wiring

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brmull

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Sep 20, 2018
5
Stuart Fl
I am looking to install the Pentair I9 Intellitouch (125 amp)sub panel. I will run about 60ft from main panel through attic/floor joist, then the last 20ft outside to a stand alone panel board. I have read many threads but still not clear on requirements.
If I want the full 125 Amp available what size wire?
Does it all need to be in conduit or just the outside part.

Thanks i advance for the help?
 
domct203 said:
Will the utility service you have at the house be able to handle an additional 125 amps?
Click to expand...

A load analysis needs to be done of what is currently in house electrical panels and if there is sufficient capacity remaining for the subpanel loads.
 
br,

Welcome to TFP... a great place to find the answers to all of your "Current Carrying" questions.. :shark:

What is it that you plan to run from the ET load center??? 30 amp is plenty for a pump, swg and EasyTouch, what else did you plan on having?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I’m with Him ^, what are you thinking will need 125a at the panel? Not saying you’re wrong- just curious. Are you tying in pool house, etc?

I have a 60 amp panel for my set up. 20 amp for pump, 20a GFI for 12v LED pool light and convenience receptacles, and then a 60amp for the heat pump- only draws about 27 at start up.

In my neck of the woods, you need to be in Conduit from panel to panel.

My sub is about 75 ish feet from main panel. They used #6 copper. I’m not sure about the ground size.


18x36 vinyl liner ,19k gallons, Hayward Sand Filter, Maxflo VS pump, Hayward VS Omni automation, Aquarite 900 SWCG, Rheem 115k Heat pump, Colorlogic LED, Dolphin M400 robot, TF-100/K-1766
 
A little more information. Replacing old (1979) 15x30 pool with new pool/spa. Main panel is 200 amp. Load calc with new equipment is 173 amp. Relocating equipment area.
Hope equipment shows up in signat. Don't think I need the full 125 amp, put that is what the pentair I9 is rated for. Thought I might as well run wire that would enable me to use full capacity if I needed it in the future.
Thanks for the good start.
 
If you need a 125amp pool panel, I believe it would be so much fun that you could charge admission to the water park [emoji4]

Or at least the show called “ as the meter goes round”... lol

My thoughts would be to figure out what you need - and possibly want for some future growth-outdoor kitchen , etc.

The wire would be super expensive for a what if scenario at the swimming pool panel.

As I am doing my panel now, My electrician stubbed our conduit from a convenience outlet towards my shed. Once inspections are done, we’ll put electric in the shed b/c it’s only 15ft away. I wouldn’t have probably run electric just for my 10x14 shed, but since it’s so close, why not.... I can upgrade from my solar motion light.

Our inspection bureau had a load calc spreadsheet that assumes 3watts per sq ft, all the appliances, etc. I’d be happy to send to you if you like.


18x36 vinyl liner ,19k gallons, Hayward Sand Filter, Maxflo VS pump, Hayward VS Omni automation, Aquarite 900 SWCG, Rheem 115k Heat pump, Colorlogic LED, Dolphin M400 robot, TF-100/K-1766
 
Off topic, just wanted to make sure you were aware: Pentair's latest controller, the IntelliCenter, is now shipping. There's a TFP thread about it, in which they're sorting out its new features. Worth a look, maybe? The thread's been around a while, way back when the new controller was just a rumor. The newer posts discuss the recent release of it:

Pentair IntelliCenter

Welcome to TFP! Come for the remodel advice, stay for the pool maintenance advice!!
 

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Thanks for update on IntelliCenter release. Trying to figure out what is different.

Load Calcs.

Pump 1 3200 watts
Pump 2 3200 watts
Heat pump 7000 watts
SWG 1500 watts
Air blower 1400 watts
Outlet 1500 watts

Total 17,950 watts

Total Amps 75

I understand the theory of everything not pulling at once, however I would envision most of this stuff running at the same time when using spa.

Would want room for future upgrade to 400K BTU heater and additional lighting at minimum.

So if I wire for 100 amp am I saving enough to make a difference.
 
I just upgraded my 60amp sub panel to a 100amp due to adding a heatpump that is rated at 50amp on startup. I ran #3 THWN wire. I think the #2 wire is rated for 115amp and it was about $0.45/lf more than the #3 wire. I believe the correct wire for 125amp would be #1 copper. I have always been directed by other electricians to go by the middle temp column in the code book when sizing wire. The chart shown above is showing the highest temp rating and I am not comfortable using that column.


After doing a little more research..... That chart is actually showing Table 310.15(B)(7) which is only to be used with 120/240-Volt, 3-Wire, Single-Phase Dwelling Sevices and Feeders. Since we are wiring a sub panel and not a feeder panel, you will be using 4 wire, in my case I used (4)#3 wire but I could have used (3)#3 and (1)#5 (ground). For 125amp panel you will need (3)#1 and (1)#3. This is actually good for 130amp. (3)#2 and (1)#4 is good for 115amp. Here is a good read if you want to learn more... electrical - What wire gauge do I need for a 100 Amp subpanel at the end of a 60 wire run? - Home Improvement Stack Exchange
 
I don’t know if you need to assume 1500 watts for receptacles and 1500 watts for the SWCG. Thats figuring a 12.5 amp load on each circuit. If you actually ran 1500 watts, you may want the 20amp for more headroom.

I don’t imagine the 125 sub would hurt anything, just extra expense of conduit and wire.


18x36 vinyl liner ,19k gallons, Hayward Sand Filter, Maxflo VS pump, Hayward VS Omni automation, Aquarite 900 SWCG, Rheem 115k Heat pump, Colorlogic LED, Dolphin M400 robot, TF-100/K-1766
 
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I agree about not maxing out the 15 amp breaker. I have been directed to figure 180watts for each duplex receptacle. Below is what I have for load on my panel...

[FONT=&quot]Main pump - 7.5amps / 230v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Booster pump - 6.9amps / 208v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Stenner pump - 7.7amps / 120v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Pool lights - 4.2amp / 120v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](2) Receptacles - 3amp / 120v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Automation panel - 2amp[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Post lights - 2amps / 120v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Misc lights - 3amps / 120v[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Landscape lights = 5 amps / 120v[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Total amps being used is 41.3

My heatpump requires 40amp of power normally and 50amp load at startup. This means I will have a service load of 81.3amps. I know I want to add a few things to the panel later on so I went with a 100amp panel. Hope this helps? [/FONT]
 
That adds up quick. I guess when you figure 2 or 3 pumps, plus landscape light transformers, etc. it gets close! Will that require 1.5” conduit?


18x36 vinyl liner ,19k gallons, Hayward Sand Filter, Maxflo VS pump, Hayward VS Omni automation, Aquarite 900 SWCG, Rheem 115k Heat pump, Colorlogic LED, Dolphin M400 robot, TF-100/K-1766
 
It does add up quick. I never thought I would need more than 60amp as I just installed the sub panel last year. At least I was able to use the #6 wire for my heatpump, so it wasnt a total waste. Here are the conduit sizes that would be needed for the three wire sizes we are talking about...

(4)#1 wire (130amp) 1.5" PVC
(4)#2 wire (115amp) 1.25" PVC
(4)#3 wire (100amp) 1.25" PVC

**I am basing the amps and wire sizes on using copper. If aluminum you will need to go with larger wire and possibly larger conduit.

With that said.. I would go with 1.5" PVC for any of those wire sizes. I actually used 1.5" PVC when I only ran (4)#6 wire. I actually could have used 1" PVC but glad I did not. As I was able to up the wire size and not worry about the conduit size.
 
I just had a 125 amp subpanel put in to run my pool equipment and lots of future backyard plans, covered pergola, basketball court, possible casita. My neighbor is an electrical engineer so he handled the load calcs which the city required for 3 pumps. Anyways, I believe it was #1 wire. He said to use the 60 degC column unless the wire and breaker terminals are both rated for 75 degC or 90 degC. I actually didn't pass inspection because my electrician used a #6 wire for a 70 amp breaker. Passed when he dropped it to a 60 amp 75 degC breaker.
 
I would run 2" on the conduit it will be hard enough to run anything bigger than #4 thru the conduit. Make sure ur using thhn/twhn wire and it actually can carry a little bit more than solid copper so use the stranded wire charts. 100amps will be plenty even for basic future add ons. Load calcs are basically worst case scenario power goes out and comes back on w everything turning on at once

- - - Updated - - -

Remember u can only have 360 degrees of max bend before u need an access elbow and same for any underground so utilize 45 degree bends if u can underground
 
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