Strange piece of metal in pool return. Guidance appreciated :)

[CaptainCannonball]

The last two seasons have been fighting a slight green tinge in my daughter’s long hair. Couldn’t figure out where copper was coming from and it wasn’t too bad so I didn’t worry about it too much. Fast forward to today as I’m celebrating my new maytronics e30 explorer and disconnecting the pressure side polaris when I notice a hexagon shaped piece of what I assume is copper wedged into the outlet for the polaris.
I was reviewing some photos I took during my build and noticed that there was some kind of bonding lug attached to the pvc. Is this piece from that? Is there a possibility that will leak in the future? That line has a puck feeder that I use occasionally when I need to add stabilizer, did that compound it’s disintegration
Not super excited about the prospect of repairing since there was some concrete poured on top of it.

Appreciate any input

 

[CaptainCannonball]

I think I found what it is/was. Was it really this thick?

 

[CaptainCannonball]

And will it still be effective?

 

[ajw22]

@JamesW ideas?

 

[ajw22]

I think the acid from your puck feeder in that line may have corroded that part.

That looks like it was your water bond.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

I think the acid from your puck feeder in that line may have corroded that part.

That looks like it was your water bond.

Will it still function or will I need to replace that lug?

 

[ajw22]

Was there a bonding wire connected to it?

 

[CaptainCannonball]

I am not sure, I only took a picture before they finished.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

I believe so, there is a bonding wire next to the pipe

 

[ajw22]

Then you need it although I would get rid of the tab chlorinator on that pipe. It corroded the brass and put copper in your pool.

Get a tab floater to use when you must use tabs.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

If you're going to use pucks make sure they're not the Clorox Xtrablue. They contain copper too.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

Definitely staying clear of that

I’m still unclear if I need to dig the lug up and replace. It seems like the lug would still be in contact with water, albeit with less surface area now

 

[ajw22]

Definitely staying clear of that

I’m still unclear if I need to dig the lug up and replace. It seems like the lug would still be in contact with water, albeit with less surface area now

The lug no longer meets NEC requirements for water bonding which is 9 square inches of surface area. It needs to be replaced to keep the pool electrically safe and the bonding grid effective.

You know there is a problem but future users and owners of your pool will not. We see threads on the people trying to figure out why they get shocks from their pool and their bonding not working. Fix it and don’t leave a problem buried for others to find.

 

[Plettschner]

Wouldn't an alternative water bond, such as a skimmer bond or union bond, or even the same fitting relocated to an accessible area suffice instead of ripping up concrete?

 

[CaptainCannonball]

The lug no longer meets NEC requirements for water bonding which is 9 square inches of surface area. It needs to be replaced to keep the pool electrically safe and the bonding grid effective.

You know there is a problem but future users and owners of your pool will not. We see threads on the people trying to figure out why they get shocks from their pool and their bonding not working. Fix it and don’t leave a problem buried for others to find.

I totally agree, every time I see one of those threads I feel for the homeowners.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

Wouldn't an alternative water bond, such as a skimmer bond or union bond, or even the same fitting relocated to an accessible area suffice instead of ripping up concrete?

Throwing a T fitting in an accessible area and attaching it to the existing wire sounds like a great idea.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

The lug no longer meets NEC requirements for water bonding which is 9 square inches of surface area. It needs to be replaced to keep the pool electrically safe and the bonding grid effective.

You know there is a problem but future users and owners of your pool will not. We see threads on the people trying to figure out why they get shocks from their pool and their bonding not working. Fix it and don’t leave a problem buried for others to find.

The more I think about it, there is probably a reason it is down there. My guess is so it is below the waterline so it is still effective if the pipes are ever empty.

 

[ajw22]

My guess is so it is below the waterline so it is still effective if the pipes are ever empty.

That is correct.

In addition with the device already corroding we don't know how thin it has become and how close it is to starting to leak. I think leaving it there will be a ticking bomb for some future problems.

 

[Plettschner]

You mentioned that the lug is on the pressure cleaner line, correct? Before I started digging up any concrete, I would disconnect, cap off, and abandon that line, and then add a new water bond elsewhere. Unless, no matter what, you are breaking concrete.

Water bonding requirements: A minimum of nine square inches on conductive material, in constant contact with the water (disqualifies putting same bonding fitting at equipment pad, in my eyes), and a secure connection to the equipotential bonding grid.

Do you have a stainless steel ladder in the pool that is properly bonded? How about a stainless wet-niche light that is properly bonded? Can you access a skimmer to put a plate inside of it?

There are options.

 

[CaptainCannonball]

What a PITA I will be able to dig a hole and access it as it isn’t too far from the edge of the concrete. Now the question… is there a longer lasting alternative that will be plug and play?