Stenner Install

[spoonman]

Hi Folks,

I've decided to install a Stenner pump to dispense liquid chlorine. My pool uses about 32oz/day (in the spring). I've decided to buy the Econ T series pump, which combines a timer with the pump. The model I selected is 15 GPD, so I plan to run about 20-30 min/day, which will dispense about 1 oz per minute. The tank I purchased is a 15 Gal Stenner tank which is UV coated.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ontrolled-dosing-pump-15-gpd-tube-c-120v.aspx

I really need some help figuring out how to install the injection point into my pool plumbing. Should I drill a hole for the injector, or put a tee? If I install a tee, how that is typically done? Do I cut out a section of pipe, then just "slip in" the tee, then glue? Sounds like it would be difficult to slide in the tee and get it to fit. Can anyone shed some light on this?

View attachment 61141

 

[atttech-2]

You are correct about inserting a T being difficult with the amount of pipe you have to work with. You would likely have to use a T a sleeve and a new 90 and with, all that having to work quick before the glue sets. I used T's with my install but I had a Union on one side and a long run on the other so moving the pipe enough to get the T in was simple. Many installs have been done by just drilling a hole and using a tap the thread the hole. Most tap into fittings because they are ticker than the pipe, so more material to thread. I would suggest the top of one of the Ts or the 90

 

[CaptainCannonball]

If you cut the pipe near the union from the filter, it will allow free access to install a t fitting. My 17gpd Stenner moves 1.82oz a minute as a FYI

 

[spoonman]

Doing anything near the filter makes me a bit nervous since there is a 45 there, which seems like it would be hard to get lined up. I welcome any more detail you can give on this.

I'm wondering if I can add a T where the arrow is on the right. If I cut out that piece, is it likely the 90 will flex enough to insert the T?

 

[spoonman]

You are correct about inserting a T being difficult with the amount of pipe you have to work with. You would likely have to use a T a sleeve and a new 90 and with, all that having to work quick before the glue sets. I used T's with my install but I had a Union on one side and a long run on the other so moving the pipe enough to get the T in was simple. Many installs have been done by just drilling a hole and using a tap the thread the hole. Most tap into fittings because they are ticker than the pipe, so more material to thread. I would suggest the top of one of the Ts or the 90

I just reread your post and think I misunderstood you. You are suggesting drilling a hotel through the top of one of the existing Ts, or in the top of the 90 so that I have more material to screw into if I do not/cannot use a T? Is there a piece of piping I would have to buy to do this? Could you please elaborate?

::​

Thanks!!

 

[GDN]

Correct - if you drill through one of the fittings they are thicker than the pipe and you might get another thread or two tapped in there. The thing I did was buy a 2' piece of pipe, bought the right drill bit and tap and tested a couple of holes - it was easy and straight forward. Is your plumbing 2"? If so you shouldn't have a problem whether you go through the fitting or just the pipe, but you want a back up plan in case something does go wrong, so drill where you think you'd want to put your T in, and have it on hand as well in case the tap doesn't go well and you need to use it. That's just my theory as I also got a little worried and OCD about messing something up. The drill and tap was very easy though.

 

[spoonman]

Thanks GDN.

Can you you tell me what piece I need to buy to connect the tube to the 2" pipe? I understand I need to drill a 7/16 hole, then screw in a tap?? What exactly is this piece? Thanks for any more help you can give.

 

[GDN]

This is my thread with the information on the bit and tap I used. In all fairness you'll see in my write-up that I didn't actually end up drilling and tapping one of my pipes, I found a different way, but I drilled and tapped multiple test holes in the test pipe I bought and it was easy and they all had good threads. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/136912-Stenner-install-Pentair-ET8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXIBSLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPDZ416/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F3JTFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[CaptainCannonball]

Doing anything near the filter makes me a bit nervous since there is a 45 there, which seems like it would be hard to get lined up. I welcome any more detail you can give on this.

I'm wondering if I can add a T where the arrow is on the right. If I cut out that piece, is it likely the 90 will flex enough to insert the T?

If it were me, I would cut a piece out where you put the right arrow. There should be enough room to bend it open for a t fitting. By using a fitting you have the added step of removing the paint on the pipes. 95% of the time I say putting a t fitting in isn't much extra work for a better solution, but you may be better off just drilling and tapping.