Stenner injector questions

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dmbminaret

Member
Jan 22, 2022
9
Brisbane Australia
Pool Size
60000
Hi all,
I currently have a copper/ionizer system which is working great, but still need to add small amounts of chlorine and acid as normal. I got to thinking after having a pump house built next to the pool whether I could run 6mm tube off a hand pump and then dug deeper and found the stenner world via AliExpress of all places. I just have a couple of questions if anyone can please clarify?

I plan to run a double head pump. One for acid and one for chlorine. Acid at 20ml per minute and chlorine at 40ml per minute for 5 minutes per day giving me 700mls of acid and 1400mls of chlorine each week in a constant but very low, slow dose. Any issues for this low rate?

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I have the UCAK300 quill coming as it was said here the non return valve is not necessary and at such a low rate, I was worried about not reaching a cracking pressure to pass through the valve. What is to stop water from the pool return line entering the injection quill? "They tell me that the check valve is not a necessity." https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/stenner-liquid-chlorine-pump-how-to-choose-and-install.169591/#:~:text=They%20tell%20me%20that%20the%20check%20valve%20is%20not%20a%20necessity.

Is 1/4" NPT tap what I need to make the hole? And should it be on a downward angle (like 45 degrees) or just 90 degrees to the pipe?

Will it be ok to use a tee to run the acid and chlorine together before going into the injection point?

Thanks heaps. I'm excited to get it working. I'm in Australia and stenner stuff is pretty hard to come by without costing a small fortune.
 
The lower flow rate is actually better because in lowers the concentration in the plumbing.

Peristaltic pumps will only allow flow rate when they are spinning. When off, the flow is blocked by the pinching of the rollers on the tubing. Even the cheap ones require quite a bit of pressure to bypass the rollers. I have never had an issue with mine backflowing.

As for the tap, that depends on the fitting you use. 90 degrees is fine but put it in a location where it is not easily damaged.

I would not combine the two chemicals in close proximity as it will produce dangerous byproducts (chlorine gas).
 
I went ahead and installed a tee with a 1/4 inch fpt fitting - 1.5" slip x 1/4" fpt x 1.5" slip.

Normal precautions are to not even store lc and acid near each other. I wouldn't inject them with the same pump, what happens if both the tubes leak?
 
When off, the flow is blocked by the pinching of the rollers on the tubing.
Click to expand...

Ok, so the pressure of the tube contents (liquid or air) inhibits the water from the pipe to come in past the stenner injector?

Good call on the mixing. I'm not finding a Y or T to go from 3mm to 4.5mm (ID of 1/4" for stenner). Even joiners are difficult to find. I have 5 injectors coming so will put two in seperate positions.

Wondering whether I should change the tubing on the machine from 5mm to 1/4" or do you think the injectors will take 3mm ID/5mm OD?
 
dmbminaret said:
Installed it 12 months ago after a failed salt water chlorinator. Water is soft and clean with lower running costs and maintenance. Why would I want to remove it?
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Copper in pool water will accumulate and eventually cause blonde hair to turn green and stain the pool.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The ionizer will put other metals like silver in the water that can also stain the pool.
 

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ajw22 said:
Copper in pool water will accumulate and eventually cause blonde hair to turn green and stain the pool.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The ionizer will put other metals like silver in the water that can also stain the pool.
Click to expand...
In general, less than 0.5 ppm copper will likely not have much effect on pool water. 0.3 ppm is even safer. Over 0.5 ppm you may have some staining or water discoloration, depending on pH.[1]
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Mine is 0.3-0.4 ppm.
cause blonde hair to turn green
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So does chlorine in the incorrect ratio...?
 
ajw22 said:
So in 12 months you have that copper level. In another 12 months it will double and you will begin having problems.
Click to expand...
it will stay in your pool until it is absorbed by a microorganism. This means that it will stay in the pool until it has completed its job.
Click to expand...

If you never had any algae for it to kill...but then we wouldn't need anything would we?
 
dmbminaret said:
Click to expand...

Clicking on that link brings up this…

When chlorine is introduced to pool water as a cleaning agent, it oxidizes the hard metals found in the water. Hair, being naturally porous—that's how we're able to color our hair, after all—catches the oxidized metals and turns a greenish tint.

No metals in the water = no problems.

IT IS NOT THE CHLORINE, IT IS THE COPPER IN YOUR WATER.

Good luck and please don’t mix chlorine and muriatic acid. Good day.
 
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