That's the way i read it and did it. There are indents in the head you pop out or drill out. Then if the tube breaks the juice will flow back to the supply tank.
Stenner Econ T?
- Thread starter Regnar
- Start date
I agree. I will definitely do it that way. Maybe even put a sensor in there to shut off the pump if it senses liquid.
Sammy, was this on an Econ T pump? When I look at the Manual for the Econ T it doesn't mention anything about spill recovery and when I looked over some manual for their own tank system it mentions in step 4 that the spill recovery is not applicable for the Econ pumps:
http://stenner.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/INSTS.pdf
After looking at the manual, I don't think spill recovery is an option on the Econ T pumps.
I didn't know the head set up was different on the Econ T. Maybe the tube set up is different ??? Sorry if i missed you up.
I just looked at the manual and they even have them mounted sideways now. No mention of a return line as you said in case of a leaky tube. As i see it once the tube breaks the juice will just have to leak out around any gaps where the tube goes in and out of the head ? Interesting ! I "guess" for a few ounces of chlorine that would be no big deal but if acid it'll be a dif story. Maybe someone with experience on this design can chime in.
Steve_in_C
Bronze Supporter
Question for EconT users: does the built in timer keep the time when the power is off?? Is there a batter backup? Some of us have the outlet wired off the pump timer so that the Stenner outlet is only hot when the pump is on.
Pump has a CR 1220 3V lithium battery to keep time. Needs to be changed annually.
Steve_in_C
Bronze Supporter
Just got my Econ T. It has a little opening where the lines hook up where the Chlorine would just run out of the bottom if the tube breaks.
I made a little pickup tray with a return line back to the barrel. Guess it also acts as a vent for the barrel.
I made a little pickup tray with a return line back to the barrel. Guess it also acts as a vent for the barrel.
Regnar,Looks like I will let you all know how well their customer support is. The Day button on the control pad is either bad or not installed. I cannot feel a click and nothing is happening while pressed.
In manual mode the pump works great. I don't feel it's terribly loud or annoying. Should be barely noticeable from 10 feet away.
If your wonder what's inside or how to change the battery here is a photo. Also a photo of the plugs warning label. Have to figure out what kind of plug they want to have this in for outdoors.
I know this is an old post, but did you get the impression its possible to flip the front with the motor 180 so the timer panel ends up on the opposite side when the pump correctly mounted?
I think you could but the power wire would be coming out of the top of the pump and the motor may come in contact with the PCB.
Yes the motor is probably offset too much.
Maybe the pump head itself can be turned
Guess I have to take it apart to figure it out.
Finally got mine installed, and I don't see anything in the manual about a return line.
The EconT doesn't have an option for a return line. Only the higher end models. I made the following mod to the box I am using for my EconT. Initially I just had the overflow line return into the Chlorine tank, but then the chlorine vapors is venting into the box with the pump and I didn't think that was a good idea, so now I have the return line go into a gallon jug on the ground. I have installed a sensor on this tank that alerts me if it starts filling.
If you do have your EconT enclosed in a box like I do, I would recommend you have another bigger hole for drainage somewhere else incase you experience a pump failure combined with a failure of the duckbill. If that happens, then your problem will not be Chlorine, but instead pool water back flowing and that will happen at a rate where my depicted solution can't keep up, so the box would fill with water if it wasn't for some extra large holes I have in the box.
If you do have your EconT enclosed in a box like I do, I would recommend you have another bigger hole for drainage somewhere else incase you experience a pump failure combined with a failure of the duckbill. If that happens, then your problem will not be Chlorine, but instead pool water back flowing and that will happen at a rate where my depicted solution can't keep up, so the box would fill with water if it wasn't for some extra large holes I have in the box.
Question for anyone that has mounted their Stenner Econ T's into a Bud Industries NEMA box like those pictured above: where is the access panel for the little backup battery that the Econ T uses? Is it serviceable if the pump is mounted as seen in the photo immediately above?
There is no access panel per se. In order to get to the battery you have to open up the main housing. It’s held by 2 screws.
You can do it without unscrewing the pump from the Nema box, but I find it easier just to unscrew the pump and deal with it in the comfort of my home.
I think the tube that needs to be replaced is on all of them. Being variable speed or fixed doesn’t change that.
Attached are some photos of my Stenner Chlorine and Acid install....
5 Gal "Jerrycan" for 10% Chlorine in an interior closet, supply tube in the back, vent tube in fill cap in front.
Both tubes, and the two 24v power cords, are routed thru a 3/4" PVC pipe to the outside.
PVC pipe exits into a NEMA enclosure mounted on the outside stucco wall. The Chlorine pump is seen here, with fittings
for the Jerrycan vent, pressure side of Chlorine line, and spill vent exiting the bottom of the NEMA box.
Acid pump seen on left. Both E20T4G pumps are in one NEMA box, but sealed off from each other to prevent any
liquids/gases from intermingling in the event of a leak.
White supply tube for acid, 3 clear tubes for venting and spill drains, and 2 black pressure tubes to injectors.
3/4" thick foam board on lid seals off the acid from the chlorine sections.
The two injectors
Acid Jerrycan, 5 Gal. I used cable glands in the bottom of the NEMA box to seal off and hold the vent, pressure and
drain lines as they come out of the bottom of the box. Vent and drain lines go thru the small gap between the concrete
block and the house foundation, and terminate 2 feet out.
Another view of the whole setup. I used the same NEMA box as the other folks in this post, but I would recommend
painting it with a UV-resistant spray bomb, as the ABS plastic is not UV resistant itself. You can buy UV resistant boxes,
but they cost another $60 bux more!!
5 Gal "Jerrycan" for 10% Chlorine in an interior closet, supply tube in the back, vent tube in fill cap in front.
Both tubes, and the two 24v power cords, are routed thru a 3/4" PVC pipe to the outside.
PVC pipe exits into a NEMA enclosure mounted on the outside stucco wall. The Chlorine pump is seen here, with fittings
for the Jerrycan vent, pressure side of Chlorine line, and spill vent exiting the bottom of the NEMA box.
Acid pump seen on left. Both E20T4G pumps are in one NEMA box, but sealed off from each other to prevent any
liquids/gases from intermingling in the event of a leak.
White supply tube for acid, 3 clear tubes for venting and spill drains, and 2 black pressure tubes to injectors.
3/4" thick foam board on lid seals off the acid from the chlorine sections.
The two injectors
Acid Jerrycan, 5 Gal. I used cable glands in the bottom of the NEMA box to seal off and hold the vent, pressure and
drain lines as they come out of the bottom of the box. Vent and drain lines go thru the small gap between the concrete
block and the house foundation, and terminate 2 feet out.
Another view of the whole setup. I used the same NEMA box as the other folks in this post, but I would recommend
painting it with a UV-resistant spray bomb, as the ABS plastic is not UV resistant itself. You can buy UV resistant boxes,
but they cost another $60 bux more!!