The light housing is all metal, you think it would damage that? I probably should dilute it to wipe down the cord though.30min is the soonest, hourly is preferred, unless you are having large chlorine losses
I would dilute it some, you don't want to damage the fixture
Starting to look better...but.
- Thread starter Niteowl
- Start date
Definitely, bleach is "salt", excess salt & metal don't play nice
The rubber/nylon cord would survive slightly better (but still dilute the bleach) I thought I was getting close to finally passing the OCLT, but I guess I am going to be SLAM'ing again tomorrow.
7:09pm FC = 14.5 (Sun was still up) so I added 16oz of bleach
8:11pm FC = 17.5 (Sun is starting to set)
9:20pm FC = 17.5 (Was looking good, did not lose any since sun went down)
10:17pm FC = 15.5 (Heartbreaking, lost 2ppm in an hour) I added 5.4oz bleach and will test 1 more time in an hour, before I go to bed.
11:13pm FC = 16.5 (Final test of the night)
My pH at last test was 7.5, that is on the high end of recommended for SLAM, could that be preventing me from getting through the OCLT?
7:09pm FC = 14.5 (Sun was still up) so I added 16oz of bleach
8:11pm FC = 17.5 (Sun is starting to set)
9:20pm FC = 17.5 (Was looking good, did not lose any since sun went down)
10:17pm FC = 15.5 (Heartbreaking, lost 2ppm in an hour) I added 5.4oz bleach and will test 1 more time in an hour, before I go to bed.
11:13pm FC = 16.5 (Final test of the night)
My pH at last test was 7.5, that is on the high end of recommended for SLAM, could that be preventing me from getting through the OCLT?
Last edited:
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,845
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,845
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Will do! Its a good thing that my main job (Mon - Fri) is working from home right now, so I can keep slamming in the daytime, until I go to the other job at 5pm
- Oct 25, 2015
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Weird world we live in these days!
The SLAM process starts with get your pH in range because you have to go above 10 for it to work and pH test doesn't work reliably at those levels. Don't need to check pH again 'till your SLAM is done and you are below 10 FC. Low range of pH is better for algae destruction which is another reason we get there to start. Just keep up the SLAM 'till you're done. The only real reason SLAM sometimes goes on for a long time is they relent with FC levels and algae starts to multiply again. Just costs more liquid chlorine in the end.
Chris
The SLAM process starts with get your pH in range because you have to go above 10 for it to work and pH test doesn't work reliably at those levels. Don't need to check pH again 'till your SLAM is done and you are below 10 FC. Low range of pH is better for algae destruction which is another reason we get there to start. Just keep up the SLAM 'till you're done. The only real reason SLAM sometimes goes on for a long time is they relent with FC levels and algae starts to multiply again. Just costs more liquid chlorine in the end.
Chris
My pH was at 7.5 before I started the SLAM, in that test my FC was 6.5. I have not tested pH again since starting the SLAM
Your FC is doing what is supposed to do
Some pools require a little more "P-O-P" (Pool Owner Patience) than others... And the more often (up to hourly) you can test & up your FC level (esp when the sun is on it), the better!Have you checked all niches, nooks, handrails, steps, ladders, returns, skimmers, drains, etc, everything has been exposed & brushed that water touches and you can get to? That nightly loss means the FC "found" something
I have no handrails in the poolYour FC is doing what is supposed to do
Have you checked all niches, nooks, handrails, steps, ladders, returns, skimmers, drains, etc, everything has been exposed & brushed that water touches and you can get to? That nightly loss means the FC "found" something
Steps I will scrub again today when I brush
No ladders
Should I unscrew each return and look under it?
I will brush the skimmer today to make sure
I am not sure how I would check the drain
I did pull off the light fixture yesterday and scrub that.
Is the point of SLAM to tell me that the algae is there and I should find it, or will this higher FC eventually kill it, if I am unable to find it?
Have you been pulling water from the drain, to be sure that is circulating as well with the elevated FC levels? I think it's honestly just a "keep the FC up so that it can do it's job" time
The suggestions were just in case!Have you been brushing the pool walls/floor once a day, to make sure all algae spores are released from the pool surfaces and exposed to FC? That will speed it along too!
I have been keeping the main drain open for full circulation. I am heading out now to brush, then run the suction side vac. Thank you again.Have you been pulling water from the drain, to be sure that is circulating as well with the elevated FC levels? I think it's honestly just a "keep the FC up so that it can do it's job" time
Have you been brushing the pool walls/floor once a day, to make sure all algae spores are released from the pool surfaces and exposed to FC? That will speed it along too!
I have to close the main drain to get enough suction for the vacuum, is about 1 hour enough for the automatic vacuum? I don't want to keep the main drain closed for long, in case the algae is hiding down there.
Yes that's fine, algae is fast, but not that fast
Don't be surprised if your FC takes a dive, just raise it back up, that is the SLAM Process! You'll be free and clear soon!
- Oct 25, 2015
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- 28000
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Nite,
Completing SLAM takes FC level maintenance, scrubbing walls and floors, 24/7 pump operation, clean filter as required, patience. Anything you can do to get to any hard to get algae will speed it up. The purpose is to kill all algae present in your pool and then confirm it's all dead before you get back to normal operation. At that point TFP recommended levels will kill any algae that contaminates before an infestation can occur. So long as you maintain the TFP FC for your CYA level and brush you won't get another outbreak. Periodic brushing is still required. In my pool I can get very small accumulations even in maintenance mode under the right conditions. This probably due to localized low flow areas since it always happens in the same spot. Light brushing exposes the cells to FC level that quickly kill it. Under certain conditions some algae will take hold at the microscopic level and then clump together so the outer layers prevent FC level from reaching the inner layers. Eventually this becomes a colony and you'll see a tiny amount of green but as soon as you brush it the clump comes off and is killed/trapped in your filter. I've used TFP for over 6 years now and never done a water exchange and never had anything but a clear pool. Once you get it right it will work great for you.
I hope this helps.
Chris
Completing SLAM takes FC level maintenance, scrubbing walls and floors, 24/7 pump operation, clean filter as required, patience. Anything you can do to get to any hard to get algae will speed it up. The purpose is to kill all algae present in your pool and then confirm it's all dead before you get back to normal operation. At that point TFP recommended levels will kill any algae that contaminates before an infestation can occur. So long as you maintain the TFP FC for your CYA level and brush you won't get another outbreak. Periodic brushing is still required. In my pool I can get very small accumulations even in maintenance mode under the right conditions. This probably due to localized low flow areas since it always happens in the same spot. Light brushing exposes the cells to FC level that quickly kill it. Under certain conditions some algae will take hold at the microscopic level and then clump together so the outer layers prevent FC level from reaching the inner layers. Eventually this becomes a colony and you'll see a tiny amount of green but as soon as you brush it the clump comes off and is killed/trapped in your filter. I've used TFP for over 6 years now and never done a water exchange and never had anything but a clear pool. Once you get it right it will work great for you.
I hope this helps.
Chris
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,845
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I do the same thing for my spa. Every day have automation set to run spillover a couple hours and a couple times per week turn on the booster pump for a few minutes.
During the brushing I saw some dirt kick up (hoping the vacuum that is running now grabs that) but no little green clouds. I was kinda hoping for that "AHAH" moment, when a green coud kicked up and I could say "So thats where you were hiding"...
It could be dead algae, and that would definitely explain the FC dropDuring the brushing I saw some dirt kick up (hoping the vacuum that is running now grabs that) but no little green clouds. I was kinda hoping for that "AHAH" moment, when a green coud kicked up and I could say "So thats where you were hiding"...
You are getting there!
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,845
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
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Some of the "dirt" is probably dead algae. It turns from green to light brown and yellow before the cell walls dissolve.
Starting on day 5 of SLAM, going to pull off all of the returns and the light fixture again and scrub them all.