Starting from scratch and need further help (beyond my new TFP pool school degree)

[cnelfoxfamily]

I am new to TFP and love this website already! You all are so supportive and kind. I have read all of pool school and many discussions on the forum, bought the TF-Pro test kit and started testing (and entering data into pool math) these past 2 weeks. But please know I'm clueless to anything beyond the basics so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

I'm wondering if I should exchange our TP-Pro kit for a new one and retest or just go ahead and start the sump pump drain/hose water replace method (forgot name) to fix the high CYA number? I'm asking because our test results are so far outside the normal limits. Before we do the expensive fill & replace water method, I'd like to share our test results and another factor that may influence the numbers. First off, we love our new TP-Pro test kit and read many excellent reviews! So I'm sure this is an anomoly but wanted to note there are some minor issues that may mean the kit is expired. If so, could it cause our numbers to be off? I'll call Monday to ask them what to do.

Tests:
pH: 2 days ago was the first time testing with the new kit. Results were far below 6.8 (so light we think it was <5). After several rounds of adding Borax (as per PoolMath), it's maybe 6.0-6.5 if I could guess.
TA: 0
Chlorine (not TC): 2
CYA: far above 100 (possibly 150-300 range). On CYA tube, halfway between 100 and bottom of tube.
FC: .5
CC: 4
TC: 4.5
CH: 725

More details of what I've done these past 2 weeks.
1. Removed all trichlor tabs and bulk feeder last week. Nothing added since.
2. Deep cleaned filter. Replaced the sand in the filter. Yes, we read how this is rarely necessary, but in our case there was so much debris when we did a deep clean, that it was more economical to replace the sand. Backwashed and rinsed.
3. Replaced the laterals in the filter because 4/8 were broken (found when we manually and slowly removed the sand).
4. Cleaned pool with hand vacuum, cleaned surfaces, skimmer, cover, filter basket, returns, drains.

 

[wireform]

For starters tell us how you've been managing the chemistry prior to "starting from scratch". For the CYA This.

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

For starters tell us how you've been managing the chemistry prior to "starting from scratch". For the CYA This.

Excellent link to help us better figure out our CYA! Thank you!
Managing the chemistry? Ha ha. I'm embarrassed to say we just kept the Triclor tabs full in the feeder and used pH up or down based on crappy test strips.

 

[ajw22]

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum

With a TA of 0, and likely negative, your pH is under 4.5. Similar to vinegar.

You need to decide now if you are draining or you need to start adding baking soda. 30 ppm TA worth at a time until your TA tests above 70 ppm.

 

[ajw22]

You need to decide now if you are draining or …

High CYA and CH over 700 with a fiberglass pool means a No Drain Water Exchange is the eventual fix…

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

Thank you everyone! It sounds like a no drain water exchange is in our future. We're going to check with Denver Water to see if the rates go down at a certain point in the future (fall/winter) because we can't afford $1000 water bill right now.

Does the exchange work better when there is more of an extreme temp difference? We could wait until winter if it helps.

My husband wants to triple check the CYA test results before we do this. The Taylor test strips he bought last Spring have always shown an almost pale yellow so he thought it was close to zero. (Edited to add: we are nervous our kit is expired and will try to exchange for new one on Monday). He knows pool store testing is a Crud shoot but if he goes to several to check the CYA, maybe he'll get a rough idea of whether it's too high or too low? Is there another way to figure out if it's too high (edited to add: while we wait to talk to tfptestkits about our kit)? If we got our pH up to ideal, would an overnight chlorine loss tell us anything? For example, we know we have CC's but would the loss be greater if CYA is too high?
Thanks in advance!

 

[mknauss]

You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100/Pro or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

 

[ajw22]

You said you bought the TF-Pro test kit. Why are you fooling with test strips. Toss the strips into the trash and use your test kit for all tests.

I have read all of pool school and many discussions on the forum, bought the TF-Pro test kit and started testing (and entering data into pool math) these past 2 weeks. But please know I'm clueless to anything beyond the basics so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

You said you bought the TF-Pro test kit. Why are you fooling with test strips. Toss the strips into the trash and use your test kit for all tests.

My husband used them up last week. We just received the pro kit in the mail a few days ago.

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100/Pro or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

Yes we we have the TF-Pro and just started using it. We know never to use the test strips again. I'm sorry if my post is confusing. I don't know how to explain this very well.

 

[ajw22]

Let's not talk about test strip results.

Did you do the dilution CYA test using your TF-Pro test?

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

Let me try explaining it better. We may need to exchange our TF-Pro test kit for a new one. I didn't want to go into details because they are a reputable company and the kits are trustworthy. We have no doubt it's an anomoly. But the batteries are dead, 3 bottle (2 of the blue ones) have cracks near the top and have leaked and one has floaties in it. Until we can talk to someone there tomorrow, and until we can get a new test kit (if needed), we are looking for another way to figure out if we need to do a water exchange. Our kids are dying to get back in (it's 90+ degrees here) but we don't want them in until pool is safe and chemicals at correct levels.

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

Let's not talk about test strip results.

Did you do the dilution CYA test using your TF-Pro?

I have a meeting in 15 but will try to do it now.

 

[ajw22]

Let me try explaining it better. We may need to exchange our TF-Pro test kit for a new one. I didn't want to go into details because they are a reputable company and the kits are trustworthy. We have no doubt it's an anomoly. But the batteries are dead, 3 bottle (2 of the blue ones) have cracks near the top and have leaked and one has floaties in it. Until we can talk to someone there tomorrow, and until we can get a new test kit (if needed), we are looking for another way to figure out if we need to do a water exchange. Our kids are dying to get back in (it's 90+ degrees here) but we don't want them in until pool is safe and chemicals at correct levels.

@Sarah and Nate are the ones who can handle your problems with the kit.

 

[ajw22]

If you have good R-0870 powder and R-0871 reagent you can do the chlorine test by swirling by hand.

Your chlorine and CYA levels determine if the pool is safe to swim as long as pH in the 7's.

The other chemical tests don't matter for safety and letting the kids swim.

 

[cnelfoxfamily]

Let's not talk about test strip results.

Did you do the dilution CYA test using your TF-Pro test?

Diluted test results: 90 x 2 = 180

 

[ajw22]

Diluted test results: 90 x 2 = 180

You need your FC to be around 10% of CYA for sanitary water.

And the pH test will not be valid (and read high) when FC is over 10. So check pH before adding liquid chlorine when pH is 10 or below. And don't freak out about high pH if you test with high FC.

If pH is in the 7's and you can get FC around 18 with liquid chlorine and the water is clear let the kids swim.

 

[kimkats]

You are off to a Trouble Free Pool now! Things will get easier once you get everything sorted out with your levels.

I would get your pH up to help with the kid's eye's. You can look down in my signature for the Recommended chemicals to use to push it up. Shoot for somewhere in the 7s. The kids splashing in the pool will also push the pH so go throw them in and tell them to cannon ball!!

 

[Sarah and Nate]

Let me try explaining it better. We may need to exchange our TF-Pro test kit for a new one. I didn't want to go into details because they are a reputable company and the kits are trustworthy. We have no doubt it's an anomoly. But the batteries are dead, 3 bottle (2 of the blue ones) have cracks near the top and have leaked and one has floaties in it. Until we can talk to someone there tomorrow, and until we can get a new test kit (if needed), we are looking for another way to figure out if we need to do a water exchange. Our kids are dying to get back in (it's 90+ degrees here) but we don't want them in until pool is safe and chemicals at correct levels.

Not sure if you have already sent me an email but please email me at [email protected] with pictures of your issues and I'm happy to replace any and all defective parts of your kit.
Nate @ TFT