Started adding salt to the new pool today

iggy

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2008
175
The Cool Part of Arizona
Well here are the readings from a few weeks ago.
11.500 gal inground
FC 5+
TC 5+
ph 7.2
TA 80
CA 250
CYA 100
SI -.79

TODAY
After adding salt today and circulating (7 bags of salt 280 lbs)
FC 4
TC 5
ph 7.8
CA 200
TA 100
CYA 100
SI -.46
Salt 3000 ppm


I will wait a few days of circulation and test again.
I may hold off adding anymore salt until spring or until the FC and TC drops to around 2 or 3 then I will startup my Chlorine generator. I see no need to waste any power chlorinating when I still have plenty in the pool from day one.
I'm still ****** that guy just dumped a gallon of chlorine and 6 lbs of stabilizer that first day.

OK so what do you think?
Am I still on the proper schedule/path until we start swimming....
Oh the next few days will be 75+ here and the rest of next week will be in the low 70's
I sure luv these severe winters in Arizona. :lol: 8)


Iggy
 

LeeD

In The Industry
Feb 4, 2008
45
Looks like you are doing great so far. Keep an eye on your PH though. The Salt chlorinator will tend to make your PH rise, and it is just a little high right now. Test again in 24 Hours as well. Other than that, it's looking wonderful to me.
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
32,863
Sebring, Florida
Iggy,

It looks like you've got a little difference in FC and TC, which would imply the existence of CC's. How are you testing chlorine?

Also, a fairly minor issue but your Calcium should not have gone down....it should test about the same each time unless you intentionally add some (calcium) or drain out some of your pool water and refill.
 
G

Guest

actually, the difference in pH might account for the calcium measured in the water. the higher pH might have caused some to precipitate out. Get your TA down to about 70 ppm them maintain your pH at 7.6 and not lower. When it hits 7.8 it's time to add enough acid to lower to 7.6 again (a bit of trial and error but start with about 1 pint per 10000-12000 gal) I would also bump up the calcium to between 250 and 300 once you have the TA at target. Closer to 300 would be better but don't loose too much sleep over it as long as you keep the pH where I suggested. Once you get the SWG going you want to set your output to maintain about 4ppm. Based on the size of your pool and your CYA level I would start with an 8 hour pump run time and set the output at about 35% and see what that gets you. Make small adjustments from there and give then some time to stablize. Remember that you will have more of a chlorine demand in hot weather and heavy use than in colder weather and less frequent use so remember to make adjustments to your output percentage and pump run times to compensate. If you are regularly testing the FC this will not be a problem because you can spot trends as they start and can monitor the adjustments you make.
 

iggy

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2008
175
The Cool Part of Arizona
duraleigh said:
Iggy,

It looks like you've got a little difference in FC and TC, which would imply the existence of CC's. How are you testing chlorine?

Also, a fairly minor issue but your Calcium should not have gone down....it should test about the same each time unless you intentionally add some (calcium) or drain out some of your pool water and refill.
You know you are correct.
I have been using 2 different Leslie Pool stores to get my water tested.
I have been keeping track and seems that they with come up with two different readings. LOL
I did pump out some water after a good rain but I don't think it was enough to lower Calcium.
The high levels of Free Chlorine has been dropping since we filled the pool and added 1 gal of Liquid Chlorine.
Yes the FC looks like it is 4, CC 1 for a TC of 5
I still need to have it drop naturally and will monitor over the next week or so.

TODAYS READINGS
FC 4 Slowly lowering as time goes by
CC 1
TC 5
TA 7.6 has dropped because of the Muratic added
Alk 90 has dropped from 100 by adding 2 qts Muratic
CA 200 which may be wrong as it has been 250
60 CYA which may be wrong. has been 100



Thanks,
Iggy
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
32,863
Sebring, Florida
Waterbear, (and Iggy)
In a salt pool, this is a little out of my league.....should he shock to get rid of that 1ppm CC or simply let it work itself out?
 

iggy

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2008
175
The Cool Part of Arizona
duraleigh said:
Waterbear, (and Iggy)
In a salt pool, this is a little out of my league.....should he shock to get rid of that 1ppm CC or simply let it work itself out?

I'd like to see if it will work itselfout as I have a few variations in the readings.
My Chlorine levels were well over 10 ppm for about a month and finally falling with the warmer weather and full sunny days.
I actually suspect it presently to be
FC 4-5 ppm
CC 0
TC 4-5

I will keep you posted.
Thanks
iggy
 
G

Guest

I would let it ride and I would also invest in a good testkit and do my own testing. You can see the reason why!