'start up chemicals' how to maintain after?

[catsncoffee]

My 14 year-old-ish pool has been a bit neglected, both by us and the previous owners, and needs a facelift, which includes new tile work due to severe calcium build up (major hard water issues in AZ). We've always just taken water samples to the pool store and did whatever they told us to do, but I'd like to start maintaining it myself so that we can hopefully keep the plaster in good shape for a few more years. The pool company always include 'start up chemicals' when we drain and refill. How do i maintain after this is done? I ordered a kit so i can start testing the water, tho i know right now the pH is high and the pool needs to be drained. Any suggestions on what to do after the work is done and we've got fresh water in it again? Tips for AZ folks with hard water and hot summers? Unfortunately, i can't get my softner plumbed to the pool line so no way to get less hard water into the pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Rest assured the hard water in AZ is no stranger to TFP. Some things to help you along:
- The right test kit. Which one did you order? TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? Test Kits Compared
- Update your signature with all of you pool and equipment info. It helps tremendously.
- Tell us how you chlorinate
- Read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Also read/bookmark the other Vital Links below in my signature.
- Start getting used to the PoolMath tool or APP. That is your #1 resource to know how your water is balanced

If you do a 100% drain and refill, remember the following:
- New water has no stabilizer (CYA), so have some ready. If you have a non-salt pool, start with a CYA goal of 30. If it's a salt pool, then a CYA of 70 may be in order,
- Keep the new water chlorinated to avoid algae. See our FC/CYA Levels as to how FC and CYA should be balanced together
- Post a full set of water results after refill and we'll be glad to coach you along.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

...which includes new tile work due to severe calcium build up...

If the tile is still in good shape the calcium can be removed through media blasting. Cost should be around $4-$5 per linear foot.

I would post results BEFORE you drain. Include the CH of your fill water. You'll be guided as to the amount you need to drain to bring chemistry within range.

You can manage higher levels of calcium (probably up to 800-1000 ppm) by keeping your CSI within range by managing TA and pH levels. Evaporation is your worst enemy. As water evaporates, calcium remains in the pool. When you top off your water level, you add more calcium. A solar cover will help to reduce evaporation. Stay away from solid forms of chlorine. Go with liquid bleach or a SWG.

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Best of luck!

 

[catsncoffee]

Ok I can do that. In AZ they tell you to drain every 2 years and we're at the 2 year point again. I've contacted 3 companies about sand blasting/bead blasting and they're all telling me the calcium build up is 'too severe' and the tile needs to be replaced. We lost 3 tiles already and is suspect more might be ready to fall off. The severe build up is mostly on the waterfall between the hot tub and the pool. I knew it was bad but i didn't think it was so bad we were going to have to replace all the tile

I have been doing it all wrong, so chlorine float tabs and powdered shock, but I'm ready to do it right!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I've contacted 3 companies about sand blasting/bead blasting and they're all telling me the calcium build up is 'too severe' and the tile needs to be replaced.

Bummer

A drain every two years seems excessive. You can drain off a bit of water each year to help manage CH levels; no reason to do a full drain/refill. If you get some rainfall during the off season, take advantage of it. If you see two inches of rain coming, drain off two inches and take advantage of the CH-free water. In my 500 sq/ft pool, if I can get 6" of rainwater, that's about 1,800 gallons or 10% of my pool's volume. So that's a 10% reduction of existing CH.

 

[Texas Splash]

In AZ they tell you to drain every 2 years and we're at the 2 year point again.

Unfortunately that's a bit of a myth. Water doesn't just go bad, get old, need to be changed every 2-3 years. However, some locations with very high CH levels may require a good water exchange to keep the CH from getting out of hand. That link Mike provided above about the CSI is critical. So once you have one of those proper test kit, post a full set of results for us and we'll be happy to help yo understand what to do next.

 

[mknauss]

As a pool owner with the same water as the OP -- you do need to drain when the CH reaches 800+. It is best to do a full drain/exchange. Or you need to plumb softened water to your pool.

Fill water is 250+CH. So doing a small drain and refill does not do much for the resulting CH.

I do a full water exchange every 16 months or so.