Stain and/or Algae

[Bperry]

Ah, must have missed that.

 

[Paul Evert]

Acid - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

FC Testing After Using Sulfamic Acid​

FC + CC = TC. So when you do the tests, add your FC and CC together and just consider that total number as your FC until the elevated CC goes away.

Sulfamic acid is similar to cyanuric acid in that chlorine will combine with it and reach an equilibrium. The bond is actually stronger than with cyanuric acid. That's why the chlorine registers as CC.

Periodically do an OCLT to detect any excessive organic buildup. As long as you're passing the OCLT, your total chlorine level should be adequate.

It had taken members months of SLAM level FC to clear CCs after using Jack's Magic #2 Copper and Scale Stuff.

Thanks, that helps. I have had a pool service since the pool was new last November. In September the pool appeared to be stained or had algae. It appears that one of the service techs added too much mercuric acid which led to an extremely low pH that damaged the heat exchanger and discharged copper into the water. The problem took place before I found TFP and learned about the importance of water chemistry and not to assume pool service companies knew what they were doing. To the owner's credit, he has been working hard to get rid of the problem. I wanted to hold him responsible for fixing the problem before I took over management myself. The owner has been here several times a week to do the testing and chemical work and I self-test the water every day. The pool has been drained twice and the heat exchanger should be replaced and installed this week. The pool was treated with Jack's Magic #2 Copper and Scale Stuff since it was last drained so it now makes sense that the CC level is so high. The algae is about 95% gone but some discoloration remains. The pool service is recommending we drain the pool once again and do a light acid wash of 50% water 50% mercuric acid. Do you think that is a good approach? Attached are photos of the current state.

 

[ajw22]

Definitely drain to get rid of that water and start fresh.

I would think twice about another acid wash. Every acid treatment takes life out of the plaster.

Stains are just cosmetic. Would you rather have a stained pool that lasts longer? Or maybe a nicer looking pool that needs new plaster soon?

 

[ajw22]

You may want to do another Jacks #2 treatment before you drain the pool.

 

[JamesW]

If you drain, you can do a diamond grit sandpaper sanding on the stains to remove the stains with less damage to the plaster.

Acid makes the plaster very rough because the cement gets dissolved and the aggregate (quartz sand) is left and you essentially have sandpaper.

However, using sanding, the surface is evenly smoothed taking the cement and aggregate at the same time.

 

[JamesW]

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Are you (or the pool company) using copper laden pucks? Clorox XtraBlue for example?

 

[Paul Evert]

We are not.

 

[proavia]

Your profile shows a SWG and your signature shows a CL220 offline chlorinator.
The Hayward CL220 is a puck chlorinator.
If you have a SWG, update your signature with that info.

 

[Paul Evert]

Your profile shows a SWG and your signature shows a CL220 offline chlorinator.
The Hayward CL220 is a puck chlorinator.
If you have a SWG, update your signature with that info.

I had a couple of things wrong with my signature which I have corrected 1) The Chlorine Feeder CL 220 is a Hayward, not Jandy. 2) I also have a Jandy AquaPure PLC 1400 Pro Series Salt Generator.

Is the offline chlorinator and puck chlorinator the same thing?

 

[proavia]

Is the offline chlorinator and puck chlorinator the same thing?

Yes - and don't use it regardless. If you need to use tabs for some reason, use a floater in the pool, not the inline tab chlorinator.