Speed Settings and Schedules

[PoolGate]

Your pump should have a wire like the below coming out of it.

 

[HermanTX]

@Paul Evert
This picture is the back of your pump and there should be a small wire connected to the port.
The cable (RS-485) should have come with the pump. Is it laying around somewhere.

 

[Paul Evert]

@Paul Evert
This picture is the back of your pump and there should be a small wire connected to the port.
The cable (RS-485) should have come with the pump. Is it laying around somewhere.

There is nothing laying around the area. The only thing I see is the wire in the picture that runs over to the heater and one attached to the PCV pipe that runs into the AquaLink panel.

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks. The wire from the heater should be routed to the GREEN connector in screws 1 & 2.
The picture you show is the water temperature sensor which also goes to the GREEN connector.
The other sensor is the AIR sensor, hanging below your AquaLink box, that dictates if Freeze Protection is activated. This air sensor also goes to the GREEN connector. I can see all 3 are connected in the other photo you shared.

You are missing the RS485 cable that goes from the pump to the RED connector. This is needed and I would guess your PB contractor did not know how to connect it so he/she did not.

I need to look at the manual for your pump if a special connector is needed for the RS485 cable to the pump or can we connect to the pump just using 4 wires. To connect to the RED connector, all is needed is the 4 wires.

You can ask your PB for the wire as that should have been part of the pump package. Alternatively, if it is lost and all that is needed is 4 wires on each end, then the antenna wire can be used. Normally the antenna wire is 15ft and it looks like you only needed 6 ft so there is ample wire wrapped up in that compartment to cut and use for the pump. Are you handy to be able to do that?

 

[PoolGate]

Thanks. The wire from the heater should be routed to the GREEN connector in screws 1 & 2.
The picture you show is the water temperature sensor which also goes to the GREEN connector.
The other sensor is the AIR sensor, hanging below your AquaLink box, that dictates if Freeze Protection is activated. This air sensor also goes to the GREEN connector. I can see all 3 are connected in the other photo you shared.

You are missing the RS485 cable that goes from the pump to the RED connector. This is needed and I would guess your PB contractor did not know how to connect it so he/she did not.

I need to look at the manual for your pump if a special connector is needed for the RS485 cable to the pump or can we connect to the pump just using 4 wires. To connect to the RED connector, all is needed is the 4 wires.

You can ask your PB for the wire as that should have been part of the pump package. Alternatively, if it is lost and all that is needed is 4 wires on each end, then the antenna wire can be used. Normally the antenna wire is 15ft and it looks like you only needed 6 ft so there is ample wire wrapped up in that compartment to cut and use for the pump. Are you handy to be able to do that?

I am not sure the pump includes the RS485 cable anyway. But as you said, just buy any 22 gauge 4-wire alarm cable. For the connector, if there isn't one under the motor cover, you can use the spare one on your multiplexor.

 

[HermanTX]

@Paul Evert OK, I looked at the Jandy FloPro manual. Refer to page 13.
It shows that the RS485 connection is just wiring the 4 colored wires in the proper sequence. See the photo of the screenshot of the manual.

So if you are up to it this is the steps you would need to do to hook up the RS485 from the pump to the automation.

Turn off the breaker to your automation system.
Follow the wire from your antenna to the left side of the AquaLink box all the way to the RED connector on the left side.
Leave the wire connected to the RED connector.
Stretch out the wire to be at least 18inches longer than the distance to your pump - more if you can. Mark it with a marker.
Do not cut it yet.
Take the remaining wire from your antenna and ensure there is enough length to reach back to the RED connector.
Ensure there is 18 inches extra as well there or split the difference between length to pump and length to antenna.
Cut the wire - so in one hand the wire will lead to antenna and the other hand it leads to the RED connector.
First - take the wire leading to the antenna and strip the 4 wires and insert into them into the OPEN RED connector in the proper sequence. This now has the Antenna reconnected to the RED connector.
With the other wire that is already connected to the RED connector, thread that to the pump and through the housing as shown on pg 13 of manual. Strip the 4 wires.
Connect it in the correct sequence.
Tidy up the wires on the left side. Ensure wires are properly connected to the RED connector for both the pump and the antenna.
Turn on Automation system.
Let us know of any questions or concerns.

 

[Paul Evert]

Thanks. The wire from the heater should be routed to the GREEN connector in screws 1 & 2.
The picture you show is the water temperature sensor which also goes to the GREEN connector.
The other sensor is the AIR sensor, hanging below your AquaLink box, that dictates if Freeze Protection is activated. This air sensor also goes to the GREEN connector. I can see all 3 are connected in the other photo you shared.

You are missing the RS485 cable that goes from the pump to the RED connector. This is needed and I would guess your PB contractor did not know how to connect it so he/she did not.

I need to look at the manual for your pump if a special connector is needed for the RS485 cable to the pump or can we connect to the pump just using 4 wires. To connect to the RED connector, all is needed is the 4 wires.

You can ask your PB for the wire as that should have been part of the pump package. Alternatively, if it is lost and all that is needed is 4 wires on each end, then the antenna wire can be used. Normally the antenna wire is 15ft and it looks like you only needed 6 ft so there is ample wire wrapped up in that compartment to cut and use for the pump. Are you handy to be able to do that?

I'm somewhat reluctant to make any changes myself until the warranty is up. My PB is incompetent and will not return my calls. The pool was supposed to have a 6' deep end but it ended up at 4'7". They admitted the error and offered $500 because of their mistake. You can imagine how that went over. I had to get an attorney to negotiate an acceptable settlement for about half the price of the pool.

 

[PoolGate]

I'm somewhat reluctant to make any changes myself until the warranty is up. My PB is incompetent and will not return my calls. The pool was supposed to have a 6' deep end but it ended up at 4'7". They admitted the error and offered $500 because of their mistake. You can imagine how that went over. I had to get an attorney to negotiate an acceptable settlement for about half the price of the pool.

Connecting the pump with the 4-wire cable is simple. If you were able to take off the panels to get those pics, you are more than capable of connecting the cable. Both ends will screw into a red connector which will be plugged into the rs429 jack.

Here is a video where I show connecting an Aqualink device. Adding your pump is the same thing.

 

[HermanTX]

I'm somewhat reluctant to make any changes myself until the warranty is up. My PB is incompetent and will not return my calls. The pool was supposed to have a 6' deep end but it ended up at 4'7". They admitted the error and offered $500 because of their mistake. You can imagine how that went over. I had to get an attorney to negotiate an acceptable settlement for about half the price of the pool.

sorry to hear about the depth issue - that is quite a big error. The hook up of the 4 wires is quite simple.
Just remember to turn off the whole system before you do any connections.
We are here to help you. That video by @PoolGate is good.

 

[Paul Evert]

Ok I just got the RS485 cable connected and I can now see on the iAqualink app that the ePump is working. The next question is what speeds should I set up and run times for each? I've read several posts and there doesn't seem to be any consistent answer.

 

[PoolGate]

Ok I just got the RS485 cable connected and I can now see on the iAqualink app that the ePump is working. The next question is what speeds should I set up and run times for each? I've read several posts and there doesn't seem to be any consistent answer.

This is largely based on your own needs. The below is what my speeds are set to. My schedule is set to "Pool" 24x7. 3000 is set for 15 minutes per day. I also turn on my water features via schedule once per day to keep the lines fresh.

BTW: Do not rename keywords in your schedule. ie: Pool, Temp1, Temp2

 

[HermanTX]

I've read several posts and there doesn't seem to be any consistent answer.

Yep - because every pool is different based on plumbing set up, usage, debris accumulation, etc.
The goal is to set your POOL schedule to be the lowest RPM needed and for the longest time you want to operate in a given 24 hr period.
Mine is set at 1550 for 24 hrs. (Actually 23hrs 45 min) - AquaLink does not permit a 24 time duration (at least my version (T2)does not - if you have a newer revision number on the firmware they may have corrected that issue).
This covers that my SWCG is functional for the full time and I have some skimming action along with constant circulation.
I then increase daily to 2150 rpm for 3 hrs to improve skimming
My pressure side cleaner only runs 2x a week (now that all the leaves have dropped) so that ramps up my pump to 2650 for that short duration.